LUVTruck.com

I've been trying to get those three prongs on the retainer flat so I can put the cable through the backing plate. It seems to be impossible, I tried needle nose, hose clamps, sockets, screw drivers (broke my snap on good thing it's warrantied!) The problem is when there are two of the prongs facing outward, there's the one in the back. When I go for that one the others pop back out. I'm stumped. What's the trick? I want to just cut it so I can get my rear out and rebuilt by this weekend, but the possibility of not finding another one stops me

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1980 LUV 4wd 1.8, 31's, 3" body lift, weber 32/36, header, fakemaster, project in progress
1989 Isuzu Pickup 4wd 2.6, 2.3 head, weber 38, header, flowmaster, 31's, DD/light wheeler
1989 Camry, the race car
1968 Ford Fairlane Fastback, next in line

I was wrestling with this last weekend. there are 3 tangs keeping it in. There is probably a tool to do it but how about a small zip tie pulled tight and slid down to hold the tangs in enough to get through?

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Three Amigos

Thread the cable end through a 10mm box end wrench, push it down around the tabs to against the backing plate to compress the tabs completely while pushing the cable housing towards the rear, then jerk the cable with the compressed tabs through the hole. This method is described in the FSM, just a little better than my version. It works (maybe not first time every time), I've used it for years. A drop of oil on the tabs will make them slide through the hole a bit easier. To replace just push the cable back through the backing plate, the tabs will snap open & lock the cable in place again.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

I used a 1/2 " box end wrench .

I didn't even think about a box end I have a fsm for an 82 and they use a lever on the outside of the backing plate to work the stuff inside the drum so that was no help. thanks guys this helps mucho

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1980 LUV 4wd 1.8, 31's, 3" body lift, weber 32/36, header, fakemaster, project in progress
1989 Isuzu Pickup 4wd 2.6, 2.3 head, weber 38, header, flowmaster, 31's, DD/light wheeler
1989 Camry, the race car
1968 Ford Fairlane Fastback, next in line

Well, did the box end wrench work or not?

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Yup! The 10 was too small so I used a 13mm. 13 is a little bit smaller than 1/2" it seems but they are pretty much the same. any little bit helps, I had to really work at them but I won in the end. Thanks again

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1980 LUV 4wd 1.8, 31's, 3" body lift, weber 32/36, header, fakemaster, project in progress
1989 Isuzu Pickup 4wd 2.6, 2.3 head, weber 38, header, flowmaster, 31's, DD/light wheeler
1989 Camry, the race car
1968 Ford Fairlane Fastback, next in line