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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 5:22 pm 
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lives at LUVTruck.com
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:47 am
Posts: 313
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Spoils of a successful hunt for a series 3-4 same-side manifold:
A quick google search turned up just the auction I was looking for, and I thought "That was too easy!", as I clicked the BUY IT NOW button

-And so began my quest for the correct LUV manifold-

Despite my (admittedly inadequate) initial research, I ended up getting the wrong manifold, incorrectly labeled, sent halfway across the country :oops:
An ebay seller called 'Burkhart Automotive Inc' in Greensburg, Indiana sold it to me, and said it had been just sitting on the shelf for years.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/burkhartautomot ... ksid=p3686

What I needed:
Series 4-5 exhaust manifold - drivers side, engaged with the intake manifold and carb.
[marked #6]
Image
Notice the intake port on top. That is the critical difference between early and late-series manifold designs.


_________________________________________________
What I accidentally bought
Series 6-8 exhaust manifold - passenger side, opposite of intake manifold
[marked #17]
Image
Notice that there is no longer an intake port, since the intake manifold and carb now live on the passenger side of the engine.

As I mentioned above, the one from Indiana was incorrectly labeled, and I was too inexperienced with the variations to differentiate them visually.
It seems obvious in retrospect, but it is not apparent if one is unfamiliar with the global changes made after the Series 4 model.
When it arrived(and was found to be incorrect) Craig at Burkhart Automotive pointed me in a few directions, and within a couple days, I found the
one I needed - still installed in a long-junked LUV in a random yard outside of Pueblo, CO.

-It was clear now that Craig was a man who knew where to find LUV parts-

I asked the polite-but-impatient in-house yard monkeys to get cranking, based upon the following duo of disorienting images sent the previous day.
Both images are taken from the drivers side of the engine compartment. The valve cover is barely visible at the top of each image.
ImageImage

It took a little faith and a lot of presumption to claim victory at this point, but there was light at the end of the tunnel. That bolt spanning awkwardly
between the two manifolds near the center of the first image was the clue I needed!

In the interest of confining my inevitable 'next part search' to my own shop shelves, and since it's easier to pull the exhaust/intake/carb as one assembly,
I asked what they'd want for the whole top-end, minus the head, along with a couple of other goodies 8)
Here's what came out of it:
Image
Does anybody see any red flags? I haven't done this enough times to be able to quickly see issues would be obvious to the more experienced among us.
Image
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It's on its way now, so I won't know for a few more days whether there are any surprises. The carb looks like shit, but it's just for parts anyhow. They sprayed
the interior of the manifolds and claim they didn't notice any seepage to the outside, but with it all bolted together, who knows what could be hiding.
Fingers crossed for no well-hidden cracks.
I imagine I should probably resurface the faces which mount to the head, but I don't know if it's absolutely necessary.

Bonus parts!
Matching belt and buckle for center seatbelt installation
Image

Visor brackets - mine are sun-toasted to a crisp, and I'm just waiting for one to snap off. Now I'm equipped with a duo
of marginally-less-crispy replacements.
Image

And finally, I always ask about this one when looking for other parts, just in case. This time I lucked out.
Image

$110 for everything pictured and $25 for shipping. Can't beat that with a stick.

That's all for now!
Will add more detailed info as it becomes available to me. Feel welcome to contribute to this thread if you have any additional knowledge related to OEM or aftermarket manifolds for the 4c1.8.

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75 Mikado G180/4sp Desert Tortoise
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 10:06 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2010 12:22 pm
Posts: 550
Location: Redfield SD
Be safe and take it to a machine shop to check it with a straight edge before you install it.They can through it on a broach or a mill to clean it up.DO NOT let them use a sander...Very inaccurate and shoddy!


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 12:45 am 
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lives at LUVTruck.com
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:47 am
Posts: 313
Location: Los Angeles, CA
cleaver wrote:
Be safe and take it to a machine shop to check it with a straight edge before you install it.They can through it on a broach or a mill to clean it up.DO NOT let them use a sander...Very inaccurate and shoddy!


Will do.

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