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For about a year now I've had to jump my starter with a screwdriver to get it to start. I put a new starter in and it worked great for about 5 starts. I replaced the positive battery cable...the ground connector is 1/2 way gone but still firmly connected to the starter. Still jumping it. It's a 350 Autozone starter I need to fix it but don't know where to start. Feel free to call/text 520-390-7381 or respond to post. Thanks

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LuvMachine

Did a new selenoid come with the starter? If not I would replace it.

The biggest problem is it is from Autozone...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

What year is your LUV?

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1978 LUV Custom - 1979 LUV stock

The starter works since he can manually jump and to get the engine started. It's possible the solenoid could have bad contacts and require more current than the cranking circuit can provide. Stock GM vehicles have problems with cranking issues, purple wire syndrome as it's commonly known as.

Don't get me wrong, I know all about The 'Zone's quality products. A couple of weeks ago I had an over charging problem with an internally regulated alternator, 18v at the battery. Had them bench test my alt and it passed, had them order a replacement anyway. Installed said replacement and still had the same problem. Had it tested and it did not pass the on car or bench test. Time for the new, new replacement, alt no. 2. Luckily it worked but now I'm real good and R&R an alt on a stupid Geo Storm.

Check, adjust or replace the clutch start switch?

Should have been morie specific on the ground wire....it's the small wire connected to the starter (not the battery cable). The wire itself is cool, but the connector is a 1/2 moon instead of full circle

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LuvMachine

There is a number of potential problem spots. It's obvious that the starter / solenoid is OK.
Is this a cold or hot problem or both?
When everything is hot it requires a larger amount of current and the wires or various switches could have too much resistance for it to pass.
As stated somewhere else on here, if you have volt meter check the voltage. With a fully charged battery you should have 12+ volts on the S terminal when the key is turned, it will drop to approx 9 volts if the starter engages.
If it's an automatic if you run the gear selector back and forth P _ L does that sometimes help it start.
If its a standard, does it have the clutch interlock switch under the dash. You can temporarily bypass this to test.
Pull the connector on the back of the ignition switch, how do the terminals look. Clean or replace.
A temp fix would be to run a #14 wire from the s teminal to a N.O push button switch and then from the switch to positive on the bat. With the hood requiring to be opened from the inside this will not cause a problem with an unauthorise borrowng of the vehicle.

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