LUVTruck.com

ok so a little over 2 weeks ago i purchase this luv in non running condition with a few electrical issues (1976 luv mikado)

got the truck running good new fuel pump, coil, plugs, voltage regulator, water pump, partial full service (still need to get to the rear end and transmission oil), now its on to creature comforts and making sure all electrical is working still need to replace the temperature sending unit

so after rewiring a few things who ever owned this vehicle before me had the philosophy if it didn't work with the ignition switch on and the truck not running they jumper-ed around the fuse panel straight to the ignition switch constant power (+).... and left the original wire just laying around where ever it was located...

also i pulled the fuse panel and soaked it in some clr yesterday then gave it a bath is some dawn dish soap and ss wire brush now i have ~12v at all the outbound terminals @ the fuse panel

(was getting 8v to the coil, blower motor, and well they had the fuel pump jumpered off the coil bfr i replaced the voltage regulator)
blower motor its self is shot there's a burnt spot in the stator


ok so now that i have 12v at the fuse panel i am still having some issues with my passenger side electrical... regardless of truck on or off i have 8.2-8.6v variable(high beam or low beam) to the head light terminal (the 3 wire plug behind the battery) meaning driver side headlights are fully lit and passenger is dim (enough power to ignite the filament)

along with that if i turn on my right blinker (passenger side) with the head lights on it does not blink (how ever if i turn on hazards all blinkers work high beam, low beam, no head lights ) at all but simply dims the blinker bulb (enough to be noticeable) but with out head lights on i have all blinkers, and hazards (side marker has 12v though)


so the question's are do i have a relay some where for the headlights?
is there a short in one of the wires to the passenger side head light wires???

if thats not enough detail just ask

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Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

Check your grounds! Might be getting a parasitic load from power bleeding to a bad ground.Also check headlight dimmer and headlight switch to see if within spec.

I agree check the grounds. I have done trouble shooting on this type of thing on my trucks a few times. Go to the load and check the resistance between the battery negative and the load ground. Should be a perfect circuit if its not there is a bad ground. This has solved a couple problems I have had.

where might the load ground for the head lights be located?

and it was the load ground... they used a longer bolt then needed then used 4 washers to space it out all 4 being made out of a non conductive material called nylon...... the head was stripped so i replaced it with a self taper that had the same thread (go figure)

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

Just remember when doing the kinda stuff start with the basics then start searching the harder stuff.

very simple question i should know but does the ballist resistor go on the positive or negative side of the coil?

i only ask because im getting tach signal off the positive side of the coil and not the negative side like would be normal? or is that normal for this vehicle (i believe the black wire with the red stripe is comming off the positive side of the coil towards fire wall)

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

Check the wiring diagram!

Ballist resistor to +coil
-coil to dist.

Coil should be marked -and+

Cant read the color markings on the diagram clear enough to say for sure but it looks like a BR on the neg side of the coil which could be your Black with Red tracer wire.

Here the diagram taken from the main site
http://www.luvtruck.com/PDF/Series5.pdf

i will reuse my old thread for this question so i dont have to keep restarting new ones..

so about a month or so back i was having some issues with ignition and spark so i changed points and condenser, plugs, wires, and cap reset the timing and found out that my problem was the voltage regulator and not ignition related at all...

well after about 1200 miles or so i am starting to have issues with a fuzzy ignition signal again so i go to check the points gap and at full adjustment of the points i can only get 0.08" gap being i only have 1200 miles or less on the points is it time to replace them, modify the mounting plate, or do i need to replace the star on the distributor?

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

.08" is 4 times what the max gap should be, typo or conversion error or what?

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

The point mounting plate has a slot? If the contacts are reasonably smooth, I would lengthen the plate.

typo correction = 0.008"

opening should be 0.18-0.22

not opening far enough long enough to create full strength discharge from coil

fuzzy reading on guage as well as spikes
no mid range power under 3k rpm... (i cant smoothly do under 2k rpm in any gear with out misfiring) and theres no power from 2k-3k rpm

note power loss and missfiring is when mainting engine speed between 1500-3K rpm i rev and pull hard from idle to redline (4500 rpm) with no misses or power loss

_________________
Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

With the vehicle idling take a can off carb cleaner and spray it at the base of the carb and at the vacuum lines.If the idle changes you have a vacuum leak. But be careful do not spray it on the exhaust!

If your point gap is closing it indicates the cam lobes are dry and wearing down the point block. Put a dab of distributor cam lube on your finger and rub it on the distributor cam lobes. They used to give you this with a set of points, apparently they must not any more. Just a dab, keep it off the point contacts.