LUVTruck.com

Can you throw it up on youtube and link it here?

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Three Amigos

yes editing it now to put up on you tube. hope it is done by weeks end right now it is about 45 min long. going to edit it down to about 15 min.

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LIVE HARD PLAY HARDER
THANK A POLICE OFFICER THEY PUT THEIR LIFE ON THE LINE FOR YOU AND ASK FOR NOTHING IN RETURN!!!

here is a start. I am going to make this as simple as poss even for the newbie.

1st put truck on jacks if you can use a lift.

you want to remove the torq bars first. there are 2 ways to remove them. The first is remove the bolt at the rear end of the bar. Make sure you soak it in some kind of penetrating spray and alot of it let it soak for a couple of days you will thank me for that. Next remove bolt it is a 22mm. You will have to use a breaker bar I did. Once you have to remove the cotter pin holding it in. From that point it is suppose to slide out yah right. If it doesnt come out there are 2 bolts a 17mm and a 14mm on the lower control arm that you can remove and the whole assembly will come out with a few hard hits with a brass hammer. Once you have it out and you had to do it the hard way make sure you remove the bar from the front mount and replace the mount back into the lower arm. That piece holds a bolt in that keeps your lower arm on.

Remove your front shocks.

Next you will need 14 inches of mild steel flat stock I used 3/8 inch. You will cut this stock into four pieces 2 will be 3 inchs long and the other 2 will be 3 1/4 inches long.

Now remove the bolt that holds the upper and lower together on the spindal ball joint top side. Use a pickle fork to seperate. From there you can start your fab work. you can see if you put your coilover in that the top stud doesnt fit in cause of the spring. So we need to relocate it. The bottom NEVER has to be touched. Now take the 4 pieces of flat stock you will need a 3 inch and a 31/4 inch for each side clean them up for welding. Tac them one on top of the original mount and one under the mount to make a sandwich of the factory mount. Once tacked in then mark where you want your stud hole to be I went 1/2 inch off the edge of the factory mount. I drilled 1/2 inch holes in my flat stock. Now go back retack them back into the spot and do a test fit of the coilover. Don't be alarmed if the spring hits the upper A Arm it will. (Once it is in and done and on the ground holding weight it will clear by 1/2 inch all the way around.) Now the fun park welding it all up I recommed a 220 mig welder not a 110 volt wont get hot enough. In my video i use a 110 volt but mine has been modified with 220 caps in it for extra power and heat. Now that you have it tacked in place and like the way she looks go ahead and weld up the flat stock to the original mount I over weld so every spot on my is welding don't forget about the bottom inside piece to weld. Do the lower piece first so you can weld up the factory hole to the lower piece for added strenght. once it is all welded together you can now paint it so no rust. Put your coilover in and set your ride height with the spring. Once you have done that you can drop your upper A arm back into its spot and rebolt it back together. Put your tires on set it down and check your ride height out and adjust if needed. I used 10 inch 250 pound springs from qa1 and my shocks are qa1's. this was the easiest mod I have done so far on my truck. Took me a weekend and a case of beer. any questions pm me there is a video coming out on this hoping by weeks end on you tube will keep you posted

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LIVE HARD PLAY HARDER
THANK A POLICE OFFICER THEY PUT THEIR LIFE ON THE LINE FOR YOU AND ASK FOR NOTHING IN RETURN!!!

more pics

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LIVE HARD PLAY HARDER
THANK A POLICE OFFICER THEY PUT THEIR LIFE ON THE LINE FOR YOU AND ASK FOR NOTHING IN RETURN!!!

another pic

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LIVE HARD PLAY HARDER
THANK A POLICE OFFICER THEY PUT THEIR LIFE ON THE LINE FOR YOU AND ASK FOR NOTHING IN RETURN!!!

Thanks for offfering to do the pics, but I am more interested in the final results! Does it ride better, less choppy, smoother, how about handling? I would like to have a much smoother ride out of my 81.
Thanks dusty

as far as the handling still working out the adjustments but so far the handling is super nice compared to the old bars. The new sway bars may have helped but she corners like a dream the front stays put when i slam hard on the gas front end jumps and comes down straight and smooth. I dont have the bounce I use to have when I did a hard launch like it use to but still have some adjustments to do will let you know when I get back from the track next week and really hammer on it.

_________________
LIVE HARD PLAY HARDER
THANK A POLICE OFFICER THEY PUT THEIR LIFE ON THE LINE FOR YOU AND ASK FOR NOTHING IN RETURN!!!

Looks like you might have gotten a little carried away tightening up the top nut for the shock...to much pressure will cause that rubber to crack and bust way too soon
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those are the old rubber pieces we used them to mock everything up to make sure everything went in right. we took them off and put the new ones in. the new ones are about a inch thicker.

_________________
LIVE HARD PLAY HARDER
THANK A POLICE OFFICER THEY PUT THEIR LIFE ON THE LINE FOR YOU AND ASK FOR NOTHING IN RETURN!!!

How did the swap effect the stance or height ? Is the shock travel longer than the bump stops so as not to bottom out the shock ? Is this a street truck ? Sorry for so many questions , but this is the next on my list . Oh ,, thanks for the write up with pics . track report update will be cool .

Is that video you were talking about still available. I'm about to start my project and would like to purchase and watch 14 times before I get started

Yeah nice right up any follow up would be appreciated !!
Thinking about doing this now

My truck rides like shit
Have 3inch blocks on the back and torsion bars adjs
New shocks all around
But when I hit daily drive bumps i get major impact !
Any ideas guys??