LUVTruck.com

I need some technical advice, and some ideas on this one. My 80 stock California Luv recently smogged is now progressing to a Luv/hate relationship. Truck runs great as long as we are going forward, or backwards. When its stopped, I sit and look at the tach and wait for the truck to start sputtering and drop to about 300-400 rpm's and possibly die, so I do the clutch, brake, throttle dance alot, and I am getting sick and tired of it. When it is idling good, its very smooth. Everything seems to be working, sometimes. All indications point to a intermittently stuck open EGR valve. Thats not the case. EGR valve is not stuck. Works pretty good, besides a very small vacuum leak. I am guessing this recently professionally built Hitachi is another piece of crap. I have 3 of them now. I also have a Weber that I pulled off a 20R old Toyota truck. When I got home, the numbers stamped on the side look like 32/36 DGAV33B D7. I have no idea how old this carb is, but since I happen to have a spare intake manifold, I am going to try to resurect this old carb on my other manifold. I would like to know if this idea sounds doable? I have 22 months before it needs to be smogged again, so maybe I can do without some of emissions stuff. I believe vacuum for the brakes comes off the manifold, so the only real vacuum off the base of the carb is for the distributor, right? What should I be looking at with carb swap? I dont have the installation instructions from redline, so I basically want to know everything before I start this. Would love to put this carb on a now Offy intake, but that may have to wait.

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5f2DqrEQCc

sounds to me like a fuel pump or clogged filter. when you say that it sputters and dies sounds to me like its not getting fuel. Check the filter and give her a complete tune up plugs wires cap rotor points and condenser. When using a weber you need a fuel regulator or a fuel pump that pumps at 2-3 psi. the stock and universal pumps pump out 5-6 psi which will cause the weber to flood. good luck the vid up top is part one to installing a weber there is a part 2 as well. hope all goes well.

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1980 Chevy LUV 4x4 Weberfied Sold
1974 Chevy LUV 4x4 Weberfied

Use a higher psi pump but use a pressure regulator.Before the carb swap check for vacuum leaks with the truck idling(if it will)shoot carb cleaner at the hoses and at the base of the carb. You will have a big change in idle. Also make sure all of the connections for the choke and idle solenoid are clean. You could also take out the needle and seat to clean that and also tear apart the idle solenoid and clean the needle in there.

The bad idling is too inconsistant to be fuel related. I can sit there at a light and it will idle for 15-20 seconds, then start its sputtering. Some times, it will idle for as long as I want it too. I cannot duplicate this with any vacuum related equipment, or any solenoid on the carb. I believe its something mechanical. I dont know what a vacuum transponder (feeds EGR vacuum) does, or how to trouble shoot it.
Since I have 2 intakes, I am going to shelf the smog compenents, and build up this weber. I see all these forums about "How do I" on the weber carb, but this is from those fortunate few that actually spent money on their equipment. I paid $40 for a Weber and I cannot find any documentation on how to make make it work on a Luv, besides the really good youtube videos. I would rather do this with documentation because I am simply not smart enough to "make it fit".
My next step is to take as many pictures of the components in their place before I make this truck illegal. But first, I have to pull my exhaust manifold off because I broke a exhaust flange stud off. Anyone who has tried to get power tools to the bottom of the exhaust manifold can sympathize.
I luv my truck, I luv my truck, I luv my truck.......

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

Have someone send you the dimensions of the adapter plates and see if you can fabricate them? The carb fits with an adapter plate but may even be a different size at the base of your carb.

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1980 Chevy LUV 4x4 Weberfied Sold
1974 Chevy LUV 4x4 Weberfied

I would love to find someone with a toyota 20R engine that needs an adapter plate. I was thinking about adapting this plate to fit, but if the parts are available, then I should try to get the correct parts.

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

you can purchase just the adapter on ebay. also try amazon i think for around $80.

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1980 Chevy LUV 4x4 Weberfied Sold
1974 Chevy LUV 4x4 Weberfied

Finally got the nerve up to put the weber on. After buying a rebuild kit, adapter plate and a air filter, and modifying my spare intake with the help from the video, I can say my luv has never idled so smoothly. I still have to figure out some plumbing issues, but with some help from other forums, I have plenty of ideas how to route the big valve cover hose, and the fuel tank breather. The egr is totally non-functional due to plugging up the port just below the carb inside the intake. This also makes the anti-backfire function non-operational. I will have to see how this works when I take it for a test drive once all the plumbing is taken care of. I have decided to leave the air pump functional. I will have to see how this effects the operation of the new carb.
I do have one question on the vacuum hose routing after the weber is installed. The hose that goes from the large ported vacuum outlet under the carburator to the intake manifold. What do you do with that hose. After installing the weber, there really isnt much difference between connecting this hose, and plugging it. What does the installation instructions from Redline say to do with this hose? I do notice there is quite a bit of backfire when this hose is plugged, but it idles better when the hose is connected to the intake.
I plugged off the vacuum hose that goes to the stock air cleaner, and connected the hose that is routed to the air check valve, and the vacuum switch located on the master cylinders.
The only vacuum device being used with the vacuum port off the weber is the distributor.
There is a little bit more black smoke from the tailpipe than with the Hitachi, so I think I need to install a fuel pressure regulator.
I fabricated a throttle bracket using some angle iron and the throttle bracket from one of my old Hitachi carbs, so I didnt have to cut the throttle cable. This seems to work pretty good.
Since I dont have the installation instructions, can someone tell me what I have forgotten? Considering I have a total of $120 invested in this carb swap so far, I consider myself very lucky.

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

The weber has been on for 2 weeks, and am a little concerned. Fuel mileage went from 25 mpg to 18 mpg. I got a fuel pressure regulator installed also. Main jets are 140 and secondary jets are 170.

Shouldnt see such a large drop in mileage, but am tickled with the performance. Any suggestions other than rejetting?

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

http://www.luvtruck.com/pdf/Weber_files.zip Download and unzip. It is a file that will give you a lot of info on the weber carbs.

I know this is an old post but I think the files you have will help me! But my computer will not let me unzip them!! darn windows 8. Can someone let me know what jets go in the 32-36DGV? I picked one up at a swap meet for $10! But it came of an old ford more than likely a 2.3 out of an old ford. It idles with the jets in it now but it falls on its face and stalls when you go near the throttle so im thinking its just drowning the motor with gas.

Thanks for the help guys!

try sending an email to redline weber and ask what jets come in their weber kit for a luv or early Isuzu 1.9 they are jetted perfect out of the box and I was really happy with mine so what ever they are doing works

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

Thanks love4theluv. Iv done some digging and I think iv got enough to go by. I looked up jetting for a 1.8L and found some numbers. Also got the truck in the garage so I could see since its getting dark so early now... It looks like my jets are good some I cant read but I don't see any issues with the jetting. So after getting the fuel air correct and getting it to idle I started messing with the higher rpm's, I cant seem to get it to rev up. If I blip the throttle it falls on its face and trys to stall. Iv I rev it up slowly it climbs just fine. So I believe that the accelerator pump is the issue. I found that the new accelerator pump is crap and falling apart and leaking so I stuffed the old one back in and the same thing was happening. So im hopping to get a new one sent to me by the seller of my rebuild kit and it will salve my issue.

So here is my next Q is the accelerator pump jet marked with its size? mine is dirty and cant see one but im thinking I need a 55 or so.

Also even when I move the throttle a little the accelerator pump spits out gas.(may be because of the issues im having now) but if seems to pump out A LOT a real good squirt and even when i move the throttle a little and it does, and it's really low in the throttle I figured it would be higher in the gas pedal but that may just be from working with other styles of carbs.

Thanks again and the weber is the ticket! The one I have must have been sitting on the bottom os the sea but it has cleaned up really nice and is sooo much easier to work on! And now it idles like a dream! just need to get the accelerator pump worked out!