LUVTruck.com

Hi everyone, this is my first post but I just wanted to say that this site has tons of amazing info and wonderful contributers. Been reading for a few days and was finally able to register. Did you know this site sees gmail as spam and won't let you register with an email address from there? lol

Anyways, here's my issue...

Purchased my 1976 2wd LUV three days ago from an equipment company is Sarasota, FL that they used as a parts runner. Paint is amazing (2 years old) and it shifts wonderfully. Didn't idle when it was cold when I picked it up but once it warmed up it was fine. Ran great actually.

Drove it the 50 miles home and had to go over the sunshine skyway (huge bridge with a high peak) and had to kick it in the guts but it did 75 the entire way up. On the way down it started the sputter and choke but as long as I stayed on it it would go as fast as I wanted it to. Got off the the interstate and back onto the highway near my apartment and it continued to sputter and buck and choke and all that wonderful stuff. Limped it home after recranking it at every red light (would no longer idle) and parked it.

I have since accomplished the following:

1. Replaced spark plugs
2. Replaced fuel filter
3. Replaced air filter
4. Sprayed every plug and connector with contact cleaner
5. Sprayed the carb with cleaner
6. Replaced tons of old rubber hoses

The motor turns over great, fires up, runs about 2-3 seconds and then dies. If you peg the gas pedal it will run but it's running like hell.

There is a huge exhaust leak right under the cab (some genius put the tube INSIDE the exhaust pipe coming from the header instead of getting one that went OVER the pipe, so it's spitting exhaust out around it) and the exhaust coming from the tail pipe is super hot.

I'm an EFI guy buy nature so this is not my expertise, but I'm a great listener/reader.

I do have a rebuild kit for the carb on order, but don't know if that's just barking up the wrong tree. Any help would be appreciated!

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1976 2x4 LUV: 4-speed, 32/36 Weber, desmogged, 3.42 gears

My '76 LUV and Impulse 5-speed for sale:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=24576

How does the cap and rotor look? Also, it is possible it jumped time.

Welcome and yes, we know, but 95% of gmail registrations ARE spam, so it is blocked.

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Click on C.M. logo to go to my webpage


RIP R.J.B.

The cap and rotor look fine enough, although I'm used to coil-on-plug so I'm not sure at what point the contacts wouldn't be good anymore.

As far as the timing goes, I've never had to adjust or check it. I know it requires a timing light but beyond that I don't know the procedure. It's just one of those things I've never encountered. If anyone can give me a heads up on how to do it on the 1.8L I'd be appreciative.
UPDATE:
So I've been researching online and then looking at the balancer pulley on the engine and I've located the 0-12 degree metal marker. I've also learned that you adjust it by turning the distributor clockwise/counter. What would have cause it to get so out of tune in 50 miles that it will no longer idle and runs so roughly? (if that's the issue?)

And if it is running so poorly and will only really stay running under 1/3 to full throttle, how do I accurately set it when the rpm are supposed to be low? Should I adjust it without checking (marking the starting position) until it will at least stay running?

Also, there are some hose nipples I'm curious about. My series 5 shop manual is on order but until then I'm clueless. Could someone chime in on what the numbers are / what they go to / if they're necessary / can they be removed or plugged.


I can't wait until I can afford a weber setup so all of this can be cleared away.







This is on the passenger side of the carb.

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1976 2x4 LUV: 4-speed, 32/36 Weber, desmogged, 3.42 gears

My '76 LUV and Impulse 5-speed for sale:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=24576

Welcome to the site. #1 is for connection for a hose from your air (pollution) pump, #2 is to let out excess pressure from your engine (the hose on yours has been replaced and looks a little longer than normal, #3 is for heated air to go into your breather, (there should be a metal tube that looks similar to a slinky there going from the exhaust cover up to the breather, #4 I'm not really sure what exactly it's for without looking at mine to trace it out but I'm sure it's a vaccuum line and should be plugged or reconnected if there is a loose line hanging there in proximity.

I doubt points would be your problem but you might want to check them anyway to eliminate them as a possibility. I know you've replaced your fuel filter but try running a bottle of carb/injector cleaner through your tank.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Do you know how to perform a compression test? There's a very very slight chance that you've burned a valve. 75mph isn't exactly something that these little trucks care for (Over-revving was the reason behind my engine's last rebuild... burned a valve and said eh, what the hell, may as well do it all while it's this far apart).
I don't think running it that fast fried anything in the electrical system, because the voltage that the coil can build drops with an increase in RPMs (points should be fine, but check the place where they ride on the distributor shaft)... lol, if you're familiar with EFI, you're likely familiar with the 1 coil per sparkplug design that most makers use to correct that issue. Like the dual point distributors.

Good Luck and welcome to the site!

If you're wondering what should be connected to what, there ought to be a vacuum line diagram on the hood...

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1980 4X4 LUV daily driver, as stock as can be.

I do have a compression tester, and oh boy is that grim. My wife would absolutely have my butt if that's what occurred. What are the stock numbers I should be looking for?

And thank you all for your help, all of this is awesome and any other ideas are more than welcome.

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1976 2x4 LUV: 4-speed, 32/36 Weber, desmogged, 3.42 gears

My '76 LUV and Impulse 5-speed for sale:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=24576

I have always been an ignition first person. Check the float valve. On my 77 there is a small glass window on the top front of the carburator. The gas level must be close to the white dot in the center. I have had nothing but trouble with it. I think I have added spacers to keep the float centered and shaved the float down to keep it from sticking.

It is a pain to adjust. You take it apart and bend a little tab. You put it back together again, and check it. Repeat a dozen times until it is finally right.

I am firmly convinced much of the carburator problems are not the adjustments or dirt, , but the stupid float valve. If it sticks down, it floods. stuck in the up position, and no gss.

Alright, I didn't have much sunlight today after work so I was only able to test one theory I had. I removed the air filter so I could see the open carb. The butterfly valve towards the passenger fender seems to be completely limp and unaffected by the actuator as seen in the following video:

View My Video

Is this normal? I'm assuming this is part of the electric choke (please correct me if I'm wrong) because if I fire it up and close that valve shut the engine roars and seems to have no issues but as soon as you let the valve go it bogs out and dies. There doesn't seem to be anything controlling how it meters air, any longer.

This kind of makes sense since the exhaust was so hot (indicating a lean condition) and having to apply constant gas to keep up (or try to keep up) with the air flow.

Is this even in the realm of possibilities? Comments, concerns, grievances?

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1976 2x4 LUV: 4-speed, 32/36 Weber, desmogged, 3.42 gears

My '76 LUV and Impulse 5-speed for sale:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=24576

What you are messing with in the video is the choke. That is not the throttle butterflys. If you close it and the engine runs much better you do have a lean condition. Maybe the fuel is restricted somewhere? Maybe the carb is gummed up.

lol, that definitely sounds like an easier fix than a burnt valve. Dig through the carb first, because maybe you shook some gunk loose. Yay gunk!

The compression for a LUV is something like 8:1, and atmospheric pressure is something like 15 psi, so 120 should be pretty good. Within about 10 psi is good.

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1980 4X4 LUV daily driver, as stock as can be.

Okay, that does seem like a way easier fix than a burnt valve.

It does kind of make sense because the truck never saw over like 30mph the whole time the company owned it, I think. Then I took it on a 50 mile road trip at 70-75, so maybe I kind of asked for this!



Is it supposed to be that limp all the time? I was only a one-man crew when I was working on it so I couldn't tell if if the actuator was actuating when I was inside the cab.

I got a rebuild kit from advance auto so I guess that will be my project for the next few days.

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1976 2x4 LUV: 4-speed, 32/36 Weber, desmogged, 3.42 gears

My '76 LUV and Impulse 5-speed for sale:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=24576

They are generally rather free moving. Follow the linkage and make sure it is all connected but it does appear to be.

I am not sure if it would be an electric chock but if so there should be a power wire connected.

I'm pretty sure it's an electric choke -- I don't have a choke knob on the dash. I just bit the bullet and ordered a 32/36 conversion kit on ebay. I petitioned the company I purchased it from to give me a $250 partial refund on it in exchange for perfect ebay feedback and they accepted, so I figured it would be a good investment and solve the carb issue I'm having!

Anyone need a rebuildable stock carb core? lol

Once it's in I'll post an update on how it fared. Thanks all!

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1976 2x4 LUV: 4-speed, 32/36 Weber, desmogged, 3.42 gears

My '76 LUV and Impulse 5-speed for sale:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=24576

I'll take that carb as i need a choke pull-off for mine or a replacment carb.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

sorry, didnt have time to read all the replies, but the no 4 vacuum line is for the vacuum advance on the distributor. no advance and the engine will run like poodoo. if you still have the vacuum diagram under the hood, make sure they are all routed correctly. even a small leak will make this engine run like crap.


a carb rebuild couldnt hurt anyway, and as far as the other stuff goes, the no 1 hose is the line from the smog pump. the same hose that wraps around the tip of the air cleaner assembly. (you have it partially circled too) the no 2 hose is for the pcv system. from what im seeing, it looks like its connected ok. i would shorten it a little thats all.

the no 3 hose is a carb pre-heater hose duct. just takes hot air from around the manifold and puts it in the carb to let it warm up a little faster.

hope this helps!

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To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

You could also disconnect the fuel line to the carb, place it in a bucket, and turn the key on to see how the fuel pump is doing. Mine looks like a garden hose!

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I've never been wrong! Once I thought I was, but I was mistaken.
Rick
Loranger, La
1980 Stepside LUV (Again)

# 4 hose is for the EGR system that may have been disconnected, yes plug it off. The one next to it is the distributor vacuum advance, leave it connected.

I felt I owed it to everyone to make an update!

Last Saturday a buddy and I finished setting up/tuning the carb and it fired up and ran like a dream. No bogging, no hesitating, just a clean runner.

Drove it up to see my wife at her work and she was very excited (since I bought a truck that wouldn't run once I got it home!) and asked me to go pick something up. Went to the store, came back out, forgot it was in gear and turned it over. Lurched a few inches (how embarrassing!) and died. All electrics went dead. Checked the fusible link... good. Checked all the fuses... good. Shorted the starter with a screw driver... nothing. Put a meter on the battery... 12.9V. Turned the ignition on... 5.8V.

What's the deal!!

Well, when the starter tried to move the car it tried to pull too many amps from the battery and shorted the acid cells inside. Picked up a new battery (it needed one anyway) and voila! I've been commuting with it since Monday and it hasn't given me any problems. Now all I have to do is get my radio working and get some weatherstripping because the wind noise is murderous.

It got a new exhaust on Monday so it no longer sounds it's age. Next on the list is just some modernization -- bucket seats with a console, dynamat with foam topper, carpet to replace the half-vinyl, dash repair/cap, tach with some other gauges, and a new stereo with some additional speakers.

Thanks for all your help and I hope I can do the same for someone else, soon!

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1976 2x4 LUV: 4-speed, 32/36 Weber, desmogged, 3.42 gears

My '76 LUV and Impulse 5-speed for sale:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=24576

I haven't heard of a battery doing that before...especially for those reasons. Good info to know. Glad you got it going. Enjoy your Luv.

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk