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a dead short somehow, which"Could" that prevent a solid good spark? if so, since I'm set up all stock, wouldn't redoing the ignition system(getting a solid, stronger spark) fire her off again? Maybe a msd, with a better coil, or even converting the breaker points to electronic.

As suggested before, it looks like a trailer light converter. Where do the lights run? Is there a trailer plug? If it just connects to lights, it shouldn't affect the spark with the lights off, and I doubt with them on either.

See this topic,
http://forums.luvtruck.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=23452

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RIP R.J.B.

Ah Labman...makes sense. If no voltage going to the wires, then they shouldn't be giving the dead short. No trailer plug found. Alot of cut wires here and there under the bed, that weren't taped or capped off. Is it a fact that if I disconnect the ground cable from the battery, then hook a volt meter between the chassis and the neg. battery terminal and get 3-5.5 volts, that there is a short somewhere? Would that prevent proper spark? Spark is weak yellow so I think it's not optimal. still not firing yet. I also didn't remove the intake manifold when I rebuilt the stock carb. is there a way to test if there is a air leak or faulty intake that would be preventing proper suction from the engine, getting the gas into it from the carb?

was it not answered in the last topic?

In a stock truck, you shouldn't have any voltage between the battery and cable. I have battery voltage on mine because of the power to the memory for the aftermarket stereo.

I think all the power from the battery flows to the solenoid, the alternator, the key, and the fuse box. Go through and disconnect each one and see if the 3.5 volts disappears. Then track down that circuit.

A vacuum leak will cause start problems too, but not a weak spark.

I need to replace my fuse box and don't know where to start. But I found out that the fuse responsible for the dead shrort @ the fuse box is the stop horn. 2nd fuse. also the (+) from battery to the dash gives 3.5vdc as well. So when I press the horn, I get 7.5 vdc and when I step on the break, I get 12.36(exactly what the battery put's out) So does this sound like a bad break light switch or would it be wiring going to the rear lights? Anybody ever had a simular issue? Also, when doing a dead short voltage test.... should voltage go from 1.5 to 12.36 whenever you press the break pedal down or turn the head lights all the way on?

You don't need to replace the fuse box. Take it out so you can get at the back. There are copper rivets that hold some of the buss strips together on the back. Either Dremel the rivets off and replace or clean and solder across the bars.

If you trace a problem to the fuse box go no further until you have done the above.

Good luck.

Yes, I soldered my over 5 years ago and it fixed problems I had fought for over 20 years.

So I did a voltage test of the hot wires running to the coil. The one going to the ballast resistor gives me 11.5 vdc when ign. is in the on position. Then when in the start position, it gives me 7.5vdc. Both before & after the resistor. Then the direct line to the coil gives me 7.5vdc when only in the start position. So I believe that the resistor goes "open" when under a load. Also, would the "Relay" the hot wires come from be bad? Since I think I should get 12vdc from the direct hot wire to the coil when starting, then 7.5 to 8 from the resistor side. I also did a coil spark test and it's a yellow/orange spark, when using a 12vdc jumper from the battery. yet when all is connected, I get no spark to #1 from the cap. Could the "Stock" coil be bad when under a load, even though the resistance seems in range? I'm getting 1.8 ohms on the primary and 8.26 Kohms from the secondary.

If you aren't getting a good spark with a jumper from the battery to the + coil terminal, the coil may be bad, or some of the wiring. The low voltage needs to flow from the + terminal through the coil primary and to the distributor. The points then make and break a connection to ground. With the points closed, you should have a very low voltage at the coil terminals. Open, you should have the same voltage at the terminal of the distributor as the + terminal of the coil. You should also have a very low resistance to ground from the - terminal with the points closed.

There is no relay in the ignition circuit. Power goes to the key, to the fuse box, and then the engine. In the start position, power goes from the key to the + terminal and fuel pump. A lower voltage will feed back through the ballast resistor to all the ignition circuit. One thing you could try is jump to the + with the resistor disconnected.

The ballast resistor is bypassed while you are cranking the starter delivering battery voltage to the coil and points. If you could put up pictures of your coil and resistor set up. Regarding your next to last post about your brake and horn and the voltage they are both always hot so with the brakes you will get battery voltage with the ignition off. If there is a dead short your battery should be dead every morning. If its not dead every morning I would consider going with a new ignition switch. How does it run when you push start it? Run your ground cable somewhere else. Pictures more pictures.

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1980 4x4

While true the voltage is applied directly to the + terminal in start, it is still connected to the resistor and power can leak back through it to a short. Electricity doesn't care where it usually flows. It follows any path it can.

That is why the power company demands an idiot proof disconnect before you connect a generator to your house wiring.

Here are some photo's. I put a Accel super stock coil in so far as the old ones secondary was out of resistance spec. Haven't tried to push start. I get a brighter spark from #1 plug wire, but not blue. jumper from batt. to coil + didn't fire off when cranking over either. hasn't ran since august. I smell gas when cranking. Stock resistor looks burnt. Have a backup one though.

points set up & back up resistor