LUVTruck.com

I have this .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390207836813&viewitem=

When I crank it over the spark from the coil is hit and miss. I'm pretty sure my wiring is correct, but if any one has a wiring diagram for 1983-97 Isuzu I-Mark, Trooper, Pickup they could post it would help me out a s-ton.

+ Right now I have the blue/black (to starter), yellow/black (to ignition switch) as well as the red/black wire coming off the distributor to the +.

- The black wire off the dizzy going to the - side of the coil.

From my understanding with the new distributor and a 'high performance' coil there is no need for the ballast resistor (the block on on top of the coil mount that the yellow/black wire goes to.)

Any ideas what might be the problem?

Here are my suspects

Poor ground to the distributor. I read on the ozgemini.com that the 'dizzy' grounds it self on the engine. Perhaps it needs a ground wire ran to it at some area.

Bad igniter module. If the igniter is shot will it work at all?

When the stock distributor is installed it works 100% of the time.
Let me know what you guys think.

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One you don't need the bypass wire to the starter.

On mine i have the black/yellow to the black/yellow in the wire harness ( switch ) and the black/red to the black/red in the harness and the other two (plug) to dist and it works fine. These are the only wire to the coil. You maybe getting a back feed

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

Also somebody has a diagram for this to work.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

tj white next time you find your self in Salem look me up. I owe you a beer or 10.

That starter wire was screwing up the single like you said.

Once again I find my self with a solution with out fully understanding the problem. What purpose does the wire that goes from the starter to the coil serve?

I was trying to PM you these images but the PM won't allow PDF files.
I spent way too long figuring out how to convert them to JPG image files & now it appears in the time it took me to learn that (zamzar.com), you have solved your problem with TJ's input.
If it matters maybe these will answer the "why?"

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83 Isuzu I-Mark 1.8
01 Saturn L300 V6

BAH!

Didn't start this morning. Ran the tests again.

When I do the test from the second video the test light doesn't turn on with the ignition, but it some times flickers when I crank it over.

When you turn on your ignition and hook up the light to the two sides of the coil will it turn on? Does the electric ignition function differently?

Thanks for bearing with me.

Thanks SoYank!

Ok, so no starter wire.

One wire from distributor needs to be grounded and the other goes to the - post of the coil.

Musta just missed you online.
I had two of the same images, 1 labeled wrong, Oops

Maybe this will help abit more

edit add
No access to scanner so copied from the book 2-finger method -

Air gap between pick-up coil projection should be
0.02-0.04mm (0.008-0.016in)

Igniter Inspection
1. remove cap & ignitor cover
2. disconnect the high tension cable from the side of the dist and keep approx 5mm clearance to the coil fixing screw (screw in the coil hold-down bracket).
3. Ohmmeter set to x 1 ohm or x 10 ohm connect the probe to terminals between the pick-up coil and ignitor [White wire = Pos(+)/Red wire = Neg(-)]
NOTICE: Do not apply voltage more than 3 seconds to prevent break down of the power transistor in the igniter.
4. When release 1 probe a spark jumps the gap. No spark = igniter is defective.

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83 Isuzu I-Mark 1.8
01 Saturn L300 V6

That distributor is shot. I'm going to try and send it back. Hopefully autopartauctions.com will be cool and take it back.

I have a electronic distributor with the external ignition module that I installed and its running like a champ. I thought for sure I had a vacuum leak, but with this new distributor it is idling really smooth. During my googling around trying to solve this problem I read "90% of carburetor problems are electronic."

I did learn that if you run your points at 12v they will burn out fairly quickly. The resistor mounted above the coil is the prevent that, but the wire from the starter feeds it a temporary 12v for a little extra boost during start up. The newer ignition system will run at 12v all the time with out a problem so you can get rid of that resistor and cap the starter wire.

I think I'm not reading the wiring diagram correctly.

The whole process was aggravating, but learning new things was reward enough.

Thanks for all your help.

autopartauctions is shipping me a new one; no questions asked. Great company I suggest buying from them.