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One day after it rained my 1980 luv wouldn't start. So I checked voltage, coil is putting out a yellow spark. New cap,rotors & plugs. REbuilt the stock carb. Cranking it over & no spark at the plugs when grounded to the block. A few weeks ago I noticed a cell went & the battery was leaking acid. Got on alot of crap & was running down the ground cable. So I did the baking soda & water cleaning method & the cable where it clamps to the battery stand is all nasty(see photo) so could this be why there is no spark? Rotor spins fine, new condensor and points.

Bad grounds can lead to all sorts of problems. That is why you see frequent suggestions to check your ground when trouble shooting. I can't say why it would turn over and other things work, but the spark would be weak. That is what can happen.

So I removed the negative cable from the battery post and put a volt meter from the battery post to the ground cable & I"m getting 10 volts. Then I noticed I"m getting voltage to the distributor & it's chassis. Oh boy.... sounds like a short somewhere. Ugh.

The bad ground cable will cause a dead short.If the battery was leaking acid you will not get as many volts across the plates that the acid helps produce.Replace your ground and battery if it is still leaking.

O.k. Did replace the bround cable & straps to chassis & body, from the block. BUt still experiancing 7.5 volts from neg. cable to neg. battery post. Noticed my washers wont run when key is in ACC or on position. it this normal or possibly causing the dead short, resulting in no spark?

With nothing electrical on what voltage do you get if you put the voltmeter on your positive and negative battery posts?

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1980 4x4

12.52 DC volts with all switches off & all battery cables clamped to posts(But the heater has no off switch). Then the following with the neg. cable off the batt. post, with a volt meter touching the batt. post(-) and the other lead on the clamp of the ground cable, making sure not to touch anything with the neg. cable clamp.
(Ignition Switch) (Voltage-DC)
Off 12.25
Acc 12.40
On 12.47
Start 12.47

Done. So now at 5.5 vdc without any fuses in. Then put 1 in at a time & the voltage never changed until I put the horn fuse in, then it went to 10.5 vdc, then when the tail fuse was put in, it went to 11.5 vdc. Now where?

I was getting a generator light a couple of years ago when anything electric was used. Most of the time it was faint enough that it could only be seen at night. I sprayed the fuse block liberally with wd-40 without the fuses in and its been fine since. Or try running it without those fuses? I put all new fuses in too. Just a thought I dont see any harm in it.

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1980 4x4

new fuses in. Soaked all the metal in lemon juice. Clean as new now. Good wire connections. This damn short is preventing spark some how. I have a wiring diagram, just having a real hard time figuringout where the short is so to eliminate it so I can get spark. Since there is voltage in my groun circuit(dead short) I can't get sparky sparkin. I noticed that the little 6 wire black box, which I think is a trailer light converter of some sort, may be a possible problem. where it sit's, it get's alot of rain water on it and it's butt end connector's. I didn't put it on and if can do without it, I'd love to remove it. I get voltage off the - and + sides of the coil, as well as from the distributor. DAMN!

I saw that box in one of your threads. It is not factory, and can be removed...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Gonna try to see if & how it can be removed. as well as conert points to elect.