LUVTruck.com

And yes, I have worn the search button out. I have a friend who has a child rapidly approaching license age. A family friend gave him a cherry 80 short bed LUV, totally stock, 4 speed, and AC. Came complete with a blown headgasket, lol. It has been sitting a few years, and rats chewed some of the wiring. Pretty sure we got all of that corrected. Issue is, the truck will crank and idle for a couple of minutes, then die. So far, we have:

1. New points and condensor, made sure the breaker weights are free...
2. Checked the alternator out put and voltage regulator. 13.44 volts...
3. Replaced the fuel filter/pulled and inspected fuel pump/replaced sock filter...
4. Disassembled/cleaned fusebox...
5. Checked fuel pressure/rebuilt carb...
6. Checked/replaced fuel pump relay...
7. Swore mightily in exasperation...

I hate stockers, lol... Any ideas...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

If you raise and hold the rpm's up a bit, will it stay running, or still die?

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

The coil could be dieing once it warms up. The carb float could be sticking. The float bowl should have a window in the front. You should be able to see the top of the gas in the middle of the window.

Coil and ballast resistor check good, and no Rondog, it still dies. pretty sure something somewhere is cutting the fuel pump off. As soon as it dies, you can turn the keyswitch off, back on, and it will refire and idle until it runs out of fuel again...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

sounds like possible fuel line problems or maybe fuel pump is getting too hot and shutting down.

does it die when you accelerate? (truck stationary)

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To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

Does an '80 model still have the frame rail mounted electric fuel pump? If so I suspect it has dried out after sitting for some time and although it is pumping it is not pumping full volume- may have a hole in the diaphram or clogged with rusty crud. They tend to get noisy & vibrate excessively when they start to go bad & they don't like rusty fuel tanks. It should put out a constant 4psi. You can get a generic aftermarket replacement at Autozone, may have to drill a new mounting hole.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Just to test it, hot wire (straight wire) the fuel pump and see if that makes a difference. Maybe an issue in the voltage regulator...well at least the side of it that handles the fuel pump.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

indeed they do.

i know Mr. Gasket makes a universal fuel pump. P/N 12s. Should run you about 45 bucks, and pumps @ 4 to 7 psi. (you would probably want to use a pressure regulator in conjunction with that)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0128

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To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

This is what I did on my '80 that had been sitting for a couple years. Ran a straight wire to it, bypassing all the original relays and stuff.

If it is the fuel pump, you should be able to look at the window in the front of the float bowl and see if there is any gas in it.

In my experience, it's much easier to bypass the main fuel system anyway, because my issue was a loose connection somewhere (that I couldn't ever find) that would cause the fuel pump to turn off randomly and sometimes turn on and off very quickly causing stutters and more jiggling of the loose connection. Running a straight, fused wire was the best thing I did.

This particular truck is all stock, with the emissions and such still operational. As we are gluttons for punishment, we are trying to keep from doing a hack job on the wiring. The idea is to keep it pristine. (Works for me, as I am plotting a v8 install for me if they get tired of it) lol...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

When all else fails, check the fuse box. Not the fuse, but the clips the fuses go in. They are riveted to the terminals the wires clip to. The connections corrode and power doesn't make it through the fuse box. I soldered the ones in my 77, and it runs better now than 25 years ago.

Also, if the ''C'' light comes on before the engine dies, that will cut power to the fuel pump. That means you have a problem with the alternator or voltage regulator.

I always like to find and fix the real problem rather than do a hack job.

Thanks. The alt charging is 13.44v while running, no light flicker, and the fuse box disassemble and cleaning, was item #4 on the list...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Hmmm, I'm just bouncing around some things I would check on my truck, Stuck float in carb, I would still just tap in a couple wires temporarily to the fuel pump to bypass everything and see if that helps. Possibly the circuit through the voltage regulator is going bad, (looks almost like a set of points as I'm sure you know) If you were to decide to try straight wiring the pump you could disconnect the fuel line at the carb and just run the pump and see what kind of volume you're getting and if it's sustained. Keep us posted.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Check your accearator pump, it could be blocked or cracked rubber and not getting fuel to the pump.

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Did you clean the fuel tank.Could have rust blocking the pick up tube.Also did you remove all of the old gas.It won't run on water!

The service manual that I have says, " The function of the voltage regulator is normal if the measured value is within 13.8-14.8 volts. If reading of voltmeter deviates from the specified range, it indicates regulator is in need of adjustment." That is at 2500 rpm. 13.44 volts may not be enough. Good luck.

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1980 4x4

MTi 09 Send me a PM. I am in Redifeld and a MTI grad too!

My two year old sons initials are MTI and I joined LuvTruck.com in 2009.

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1980 4x4