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Was hoping for reliable running having replaced the voltage regulator, alternator, and starter in the last couple of months. I also soldered the connections in the troublesome fuse box years ago.

I was out last night and had about a 40 mile drive home. The gen light kept coming on and going off. I have a switch wired to the fuel pump relay, and made it home be turning it on. Any ideas what it could be with a new voltage regulator and alternator? Do I need to hope to track down a bad connection? I am really tired of this problem.

IDK. But I like that idea of a bypass switch for the fuel pump. I never thought of that. It could be a life saver at a bad time.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

I did some checking today. The field coil is 8 megaohms, near open. Guess is it back to AAP with the 6 week old alternator.

OK, called AAP yesterday and they said they could have a new on this morning. Picked it up and guess what? It didn't work either. So they say another new one tomorrow. They did insist I bring the truck in to test the alternators . Sure enough, neither was any good. I am not pleased.

That sucks to keep getting BAD parts over and over. I had a 1970 Datsun pickup when I was a teenager and had massive electrical problems with it. I had almost no mechanical experience then and couldn't afford to take it to a mechanic so I Toggle switch and hot wired everything. I had to install an electric fuel pump then put it on a toggle switch, (had to remember to turn it off when I shut the truck off), had intermittent ignition probems that would keep it from starting that I could never track down so I put in a Hot wire push button completing a circuit from the coil to the battery so it would start and once started it would run. (my dad helped with that, still not exactly sure how we did it) Gages didn't always work though. Then all of a sudden, it would start and run like normal for a while. Windshield wipers were also on a toggle switch, high speed only. Hey, the heater worked on it's own switch though.

Hearing you say you had your fuel pump on a toggle switch reminded me of all that. Good luck with the fix.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Well I picked up and installed one more alternator today. It is working fine for now. At the first flicker of the light, I think will tell AAP it is time to give me my money back and let me go buy one that works.

Well at least they are being cool about it. AAP is that Advance Auto Parts? The alternator I bought from Napa was around thirty dollars with the same money for a core. The one I got has a sticker on it that says it tested for 85 amps. Is that for real,to much? seems like a lot. Works great, but at the battery the voltage with it running is always at 14.7 volts or so. Your problems make me think I will have them test any alternator I buy before leaving the store with it.

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1980 4x4

Yeah, I strongly considered asking them to test it today.

I think 14.7 volts is a little on the high side, but that is about what mine runs with the new alternator.

The 85 amps isn't stock, but I don't think it hurts. I have an aftermarket amp gage, and it seldom shows more then about 5 amps. Keeps the battery up good enough. It is like taking an F350 to the grocery store. You really don't need it, but it doesn't hurt. Well it burns a lot more gas and you have further to lift the groceries. I can't even afford all the groceries that would fit in my LUV.

I'm curious about the relay bypass switch for the fuel pump you spoke of. When the alternator on my truck went out I drove it to the parts store by cranking it until it started and running till it died and over and over till I got there. I assumed at the time that it had a mechanical pump and was puzzled as to why it wouldnt run but would crank and start. If you dont mind how exactly did you wire it?

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1980 4x4

The relay is under a cover behind the coil on the passengers side. I tapped directly into the big hot wire coming off the battery, used an inline fuse and connected it into the switch and then the wire directly to the fuel pump. With the switch off, everything is the same as stock. With the switch on, the fuel pump has power directly from the battery and will always run.

I mainly wanted an easy way to get gas out of the tank for my chain saw and anything else. It is quite easy, pull the hose off the carb, and turn the switch on and I have gas coming out.

I am disappointed how many times I have had to use to run the truck.