LUVTruck.com

Greetings guys. First off, I just purchased a 80 Luv for my 15 year old stepson. We paid $200 for it, $250 for 4 new tires, new plugs, wires, rotor cap, oil, filter, and as far as I can tell, the only major problem was the infamous clutch pedal. I made the decision to pull the bracket out from the bottom, and we now have some electrical problems putting the steering column back in. I must have crossed, or crushed some wires, but those problems will be addressed later. I also lucked into a donor truck for $100. This is a 81 4x4 without the motor, or bed. I mainly bought the donor for body panels, doors, front axle and transmission/transfer case and brake system. I figure if he wants to convert the 4x2 to 4x4, we will have the parts to accomplish it.
I have a vacuum leak in the brake booster. I verified this problem when I capped off the vacuum line. If the donor trucks brake booster is bad as well, does anyone know if a rebuild kit is available for the brake booster? I see brake boosters advertised for about $115 online, and that is an option since my main concern is to get a safe vehicle for my son.
The oil pressure idiot light will not go out. My obvious concern was low oil pressure. I am getting oil up in the valve train, so there is some oil pressure. Can someone tell me where the oil pressure sending unit is on this little motor?
I must admit that I am impressed with the knowledge I have encountered on this forum. There are some very bright minds out there, and I am glad to see that the art of work-n on ur own ride is not lost. I look forward to anyones help.

Mike

The oil pressure sending unit should be next to the oil filter. Do not remember if it needs to be shorted or open the get the light on, Think it needs to be shorted.?.?

Shorted turns on the light.

The sheetmetal is completely different between the first and second gen luvs.

Eric Q.

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'75 body with '82 diesel running gear
My build thread.

The front fenders, hood and doors look identical. The sticker on the donor truck says it was made in Oct. 1980, and the VIN is CRN14A8291689. The VIN on the running truck is CLN14A8213780, and the sticker says Dec 1979. What model years are they?

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

Both trucks are 1980 model. Finally found out how to decode the VIN number. The A in the VIN represents 1980 model year. The L is a 2wd, and the R is a 4wd. Body panels should be interchangable (I hope).
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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

My '80 has a similar build date. Some of the last 80's to be built I am guessing before the design change. I am betting they called it an '81 since that is how things go these days a lot of the time. Good luck with the trucks.

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http://www.purerockradio.net/

if oil is getting in your valve train you most likely have worn rings. if i were you i would do a compression test, a leakdown test, and a wet test. if you do the compression test and a cylinder has lower compression. do a wet test. take some oil and put about three squirts of oil into the cylinder where the spark plug goes with a oil can. then hook up the compression tester. and if the compression is higher than the first reading from the dry compression test, then you most likely have worn piston rings.

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