LUVTruck.com

I just bought a weber 32/36 DGEV and have absolutely no clue on how to install it or tune it in any way. Redline has a way to tune it but I didn't see anything on the install. Are you just swapping connections? And if I have an electric choke already do I still need to do something funky to get my electric choke to work? Do I need anything other than the hardware I'm going to take off the stock carb and manifold? I also have a offy intake I'm going to install at the same time with some exhaust headers. Also which hole on the offy intake is the EGR hole? I used the search and know that I have to plug up the EGR hole but other than that I don't know what else to keep in mind. Within a month I'm going to do this on a weekend so I'm trying to feel as confidant as I can be going into it. Any help is greatly appreciated thanks guys!

This will help you out if you’re installing a new intake manifold and Weber carb. Getting a shop manual for your truck is a good idea, every bit helps.

Disconnect your negative battery cable

Drain the coolant

Remove the air cleaner and label the vacuum lines you may or may not need them later, though there are some vacuum ports you'll have to plug.
Remove the throttle cable, remove the fuel lines and plug them to keep from spilling fuel, use a 12mm wrench to remove the 4 nuts holding down the carb.
Remove the carb.

Remove the intake manifold.
Remove the coolant hoses and vacuum lines above and below the intake.
Remove the temp sensor wire.
Use a 22mm wrench to remove the exhaust crossover tube, this may take some time though it will come off.
Use a 12mm socket to remove the nuts holding the intake manifold to the head, remove the intake.
Clean the head's mating surfaces of all gasket material.

Installing new intake manifold.
Take the new intake along with the old intake to an auto shop and get the correct plugs and fittings for your new intake that it will require. Remember your temp sensor.
I made a metal plate for the EGR to plug it off, you won't need the vacuum line that goes to the
EGR and intake, you won't need the exhaust crossover tube either if you are going to use headers.
Now’s a good time to get a new thermostat and intake gaskets along with some Ultra Grey sealant , lock-tight and coolant. Make sure your coolant hoses and hose clamps are in good shape, if not get new ones while you’re at it.
Install the intake gaskets to the head using a little bit of Ultra Grey sealant then install the intake, be careful to start the tightening of the intake nuts and washers by starting from the middle of the intake to the outer nuts of the intake as to not warp it. Once it is snug down tighten down the nuts.
Install the coolant hoses on top and bottom of intake and thermostat housing. Temp sensor wiring.
Install vacuum lines.
Install the carburetor.
Install the 4 long studs with lock-tight on the threads into the intake.
Install the carburetor gasket on the intake opening, install the metal plate, install the second gasket then install the carburetor. Install the throttle cable bracket (that came with the carb) onto the carburetor studs that go along the side of the valve cover. Install the carburetor nuts in a criss-cross pattern and snug them down.
Install the throttle bracket that came with the carburetor.
I used the original factory throttle bracket that came off the old carb. To do this I had to extend the throttle cable bracket (that came with the carburetor) into an elongated “Z” to allow the cable long enough to allow the carb to set idle and to keep the cable straight and from binding. (Hey I had to weld something and I couldn’t bring myself to cut the original throttle cable, where ya going to find another cable?)
I used some ½ inch copper tubing to make an oil breather, (kinda looks like a elongated “U”) it comes off the rear port of the valve cover make a 90 down then another 90 under the throttle cable then another 90 up into the Weber air cleaner base to fit nicely into the plastic grommet fit into the base.
Install the fuel line; I had to move the fuel inlet from one side to the other to fit the fuel line on my truck though it is a piece of cake. Plug the return fuel line down by the fire wall. There is a vacuum line off the fire will that needs to be plugged it went to the original air cleaner.
Install vacuum lines to distributor
Install 12v line for the choke. You may need to extend this wire to fit the new location of the new choke just make sure it does not interfere with anything.
Fill the radiator with coolant
Connect the negative battery cable
Start our engine
Check for leaks and repair if necessary
The carburetor comes with instructions on how to adjust it. Mine worked great out of the box –thanks Weber.

Best of luck
-A

All Right!!! Now I'm feeling better about this. Unfortunately the weber I bought isn't from weber it's one of those factory remanufactured ones(It was cheaper and I'm poor). It looks pretty good so I think it'll be all right. But I don't have another throttle bracket. Is there one that fits without welding or do we just have to reweld the stock one? How important is having the air from the oil breather going into the carb air filter. Does this help mpg? Thanks again you have absolutely no idea how much I appreciate this.

I just found fullaluv's thread installing his carb and do I need a fuel pressure regulater that walpro thing?

On my weber I put in a filter with a return port just before the carb. That gives any extra fuel pressure somewhere to bleed off rather than push past the float valve and overfill the carb. I just looked around the parts store and found a small inline filter that fit the main fuel hose size and had a second smaller outlet for the return line to go to. It has the added benefit of returning nice clean fuel to the tank if the carb can't take it.

_________________
95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

That's interesting, I think I get what you're saying. It's good to know there's a couple different ways to go about it but either way I need to do something to relieve the pressure. Thanks once again I truly appreciate it.

I got a holley low pressure fuel reglator at Napa for around $40 model 12-804., They do have a bypass model but it runs above the pressure Weber reccomends.

I did not use the throttle cable lever off my hitatchi, I tried but without fabrication a new cable bracket, it don't work. I used the universal one that came with the kit. I ended up cutting the throttle cable, drilling the hole in the stud they provide out to accomodate the larger cable, then instead of hooking it up the way weber instructs, using washers and a cotter pin (which it about impossible unless your a brain surgeon, I reversed it, found the hole in the lever that worked best, drilled it out larger, and feed the stud thru and bolted it on the other way. It seems to work fine that way. The univeral throttle linkage kit is really a poor design, maybe it works better on other applications.