LUVTruck.com

Hello,
I've done a search on this and pulled up a few topics, but didn't find anyone that found a place for a rebuild kit.

I've got a 1980 4x4 that is all stock except for a 2" body lift and headers.

I've replaced one tie rod end that was really bad, and tightened the backlash screw all the way down on the steering box. This helped a lot, and took out half the play, but there is still too much slop in the steering wheel (about 1/8 of a turn of the wheel slop). I climbed under the front end while my wife turned the steering wheel as was suggested in one of the posts I searched, and everything else appears tight. It definitely appears the slop is in the steering box.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I found a place online that has a remanufactured box for $300, but that is a bit steep for a truck I paid $400 for Has anyone rebuilt one, or been able to find rebuild parts? I've got the series 10 shop manual that describes how to rebuild it with great descriptions/pics. I also found some topics of a power steering swap from an Isuzu, which I wouldn't mind doing, but I'm not much at fabricating parts. Are there any manual steering boxes that are a straight swap without adding all the extra stuff, or changing the couplings?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Zym

Did you check the coupling that connects from your steering column to your box? I had one where it came loose (after I had installed a body lift) and it chewd up the teeth/threads on the column. That be easyu at least.

I haven't rebuilt my steering box, however I have pulled it out, dumped the old fulid, and put in new fluid. You can get the oil seal (where the shaft comes out of the steering box).
I can look up the part#.

Most steering boxes by almost any mfgr. have 2 adjustments, one for worm/shaft bearing pre-load, and one for cross/sector shaft adjustment. Maybe one of the guys with a Factory Service Manual can explain the pre-load adjustment procedure. Normally you back off sector shaft adjustment and set pre-load, then go back and adjust sector shaft play.

The Isuzu boxes have the adjustment screw but they also have shim packs under the two covers to adjust worm/ball roller and sector bearings pre-load. The correct shim pack measurement is gotten by checking how much resistance there is to the pull of a spring scale against column rotation. It's in the Factory Service Manual along with pictures of adjustment, repair & rebuild process.

'79 Chevrolet LUV Steering

I suggest you get a Factory Service Manual [FSM] before messing around with steering gear. This is only a general information sheet to give an idea of some but not all of what is needed to properly service steering box. The following is not intended as instruction to perform any service or adjustment but only as an informational outline to understand how adjustment per FSM works. Performing service or adjustment of steering components without availability of Factory Service Manual is solely the responsibility of anyone doing so and is NOT SUGGESTED!

Steering box top cover is over sector shaft & end cover is over worm shaft. It's suggested that unit's parts either not be disassembled or that FSM instructions be followed. Also suggested that when necessary the worm & ball nut be replaced as a matched parts assembly rather than individual parts from different vehicles or only one new part. No instruction here for parts replacement or disassembly or full adjustment procedure, get an FSM or photocopied pages.

An accurate spring scale of 0-10 or 0-20 lbs such as a fishing scale is used to check and/or adjust bearing preload. The covers for sector shaft and for worm shaft have shims beneath, adding or subtracting shims corrects preload of bearings. Different thicknesses of shims are used.

Moving steering wheel all the way to left lock, then all the way to right lock, counting number of turns and returning to 1/2 of that number of turns determines correct steering wheel straight ahead/center position. A piece of tape may be used to mark steering wheel in straight ahead position. Disconnect pitman arm from tie rod and/or intermediate rod and disconnect steering shaft at coupling to service or adjust steering gearbox. Best to go ahead and remove steering gearbox from frame which also gives you opportunity to clean and paint it. If removing box be sure to center/straight ahead the coupling before checking any starting torque pull weight.

Loosen sector shaft adjusting nut and back adusting screw off about 2 turns. Connect spring scale to a steering coupling bolt. The 'starting torque' as amount of pull in lbs necessary to cause steering coupling to begin to rotate from straight ahead center position should be 2.9 to 6.0 lbs [FSM also shows worm bearing preload to be 2.6 to 5.2 lbs!] with spring scale pulling bolt & rotating coupling.

Correction is gotten by adding/removing shims at end cover. FSM has cautions on proper disassembly of end cover to prevent errors, damage or loss of parts. After worm shaft bearing pre-load is corrected the sector shaft adjustment is gotten by adjusting sector shaft screw to cause 4.9 to 11.7 lbs. [FSM also shows 4.3 to 10.5 lbs!] lbs starting torque needed to cause rotation of shaft coupling. Obviously if first adjustment of worm shaft preload was in the lower range of pull then sector screw adjustment should lean towards lower number. Be sure to re-center steering wheel and box's steering shaft before connecting steering coupling.

Pitman arm to sector shaft nut torque at reassembly is 160 ft lbs., tie rod ball joint nuts 43.5 ft lbs, idler arm to intermediate rod nut 43.5 ft lbs, idler arm to idler arm pivot shaft 87 ft lbs, pitman arm to intermediate rod nut 43.5 ft lbs, intermediate rod lock nuts 87 ft lbs., refer to FSM

Once again, getting a Factory Service Manual is strongly suggested before attempting any of these operations. If one chooses to remove or adjust components without Factory Service Manual instructions being available then you are responsible for all consequences, I strongly suggest you not do that.

Some years ago while hill climbing I was ripping through a sweeping left turn drifting rear around at understeer when steering wheel suddenly became a separate piece from steering shaft. You haven't lived [or died] until you find yourself at dangerous terminal velocity sliding sideways with a disconnected steering wheel in your hands with a 50' dropoff over edge. In another event while hill climbing a steering shaft lock bolt sheared causing upper and lower steering shaft to disconnect, having same effect: zero steering control, no immediate fix, turn and steep dropoff of several hundred feet coming up FAST! Exciting but not fun. Rubber underwear needed.