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yeah. need some guidance .

There is only so much a Hayne's manual can tell me that I can comprehend at one time So what kind of stuff do I need to do?

I've got a complete felpro head gasket set, along with new headbolts.

Do I need any lubrication for stuff, any oils to put it together, what should I do first. yadda yadda

Also, the cam and rocker arms are completely dissembled from the head, so I need to know how to put it all back together.

thanks to anyone that can give me hints/tips.

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I had to do the same thing on my 79 LUV: I would start by making sure that the head surface is even and true, if this has not been done a head shave might be in store, once that is out of the way move onto the valves, ask yourself if any of them need to be replaced, or if you shave the head at a machine shop ask the machinist if the valves look in good condition unless you know for sure; when the valves, springs and head surfaces are straight you are at another decission point, the rockers when run on an engine will wear into place with its corresponding valve and it will most likely be different for each one; you can either replace all the rockers and valves, or if you are brave and comfortable then you can re dome the tops of each valve so there is no more rare (You have to make sure if you do this with that you dont make any flat or low spots on the valve stems!) after the valves you should be alright with the rockers since they will now wear themselvesback into place... On the raocker assemble there should be retaining clips and springs along the shafts to hold the rockers in place, refer to your book there should be an illustration or at least steps on how to asseble this part... at this point you head should be fine, make sure there is no debris inside the cylinders and also check for a ridge at the tops of you cylinder walls this could be a sign that you will need an engine rebuild in the near future... The exhaust manifold will have 8 holes and a metal tube for the EGR valve located on the bottom of the intake manifold, if the head is removed without the manifolds then you should make sure that the EGR valve is connected to the bottom of the intake there should be a gasket in your gasket set for this, and as long as you make sure that the radiator and heater core hoses are connected to the intake and front of the engine block you can bolt the head down following you manuals torque specs, once the head ius on and torqued down bolt on the intake first this will keepo the EGR valve out of the way for now and make it easier to connect the bottom intake bolts, then connect the exhaust manifold and last the EGR valve, now bolt down the carb connect the appropriate wires (most importantly the coasting richer solenoid to a (+)12v source when the key is in the on position) and connect the radiator and other coolant hoses to their proper places. and if my memory serves me then this is all that you need to do a top-end rebuild

-Dustin

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My LUV - R.I.P. 1979-2009, you will not be forgotten...

right on thanks for all the info.

i've already rebuilt the engine once, but was my fault not to retorque the headbolts after a thousand or so miles. whooopsss

and i took the head to a machine shop, they resurfaced it, replaced the valve seals and stems and all that. so we should be good there.

i just torqued down the head today, but had to rush off to work, but i have the cam aligned and the timing chain and sprocket hooked up to it. just gotta do the rest tomorrow, and hopefully i'll be finished.

i took the intake off WITH the head, and then took the intake off. so the carb is still attatched but it should be all A-OK because I placed it on a level surface and tried not to bump it so the float messes up. we'll see when it's all finished.

and so I used the anti seize copper stuff that came with my new bolts on EVERY bolt. is that alright? i know it said for only the water jackets, but I'm pretty sure it won't matter? hopefully anyway. haha

thanks again dustin!

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