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 Post subject: need help
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2003 8:31 pm 
hello eveyone .I've got a stock 72,peice of crap but it was free so cant complain too much. anyways, It has the dual point distributor on it and I was wondering if anybody might know why the engine cuts out while coasting downhill. it doesnt do it going uphill. there's an electric fuel pump bolted on near the battery. the guy that gave me the truck said to move it closer to the tank cause the pump pushes better than it sucks? anybody know if there is any truth to this? any comments would be appreciated. Thanx alot, lets keep the luv alive! :)


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2003 9:52 pm 
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Posts: 2013
Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Yes. Thats correct. Pumps push fuel better than they draw. If it weren't, they would be called fuel sucks or fuel draws. I dont understand why your having cutout problems going down hill. Install the pump in it's original location(under the cab, drivers side, close to the tank) and maybe the cutout problem will go away. Let us know if this action helps out with the problem. Is the distributor stock? I never heard of a stock truck with dual points.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2003 9:59 pm 
hey blue is rt there but also ck your points make sure each one is set at 8 thousands gap might need ti clean the with a lil finger nail file make sure they are clean then gapem if that dont work find a stock dis or see if a electronic dis is avalable if not :2gunfire: kill it


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2003 12:35 pm 
yeah, the dis. is stock on that year.i'm not too sure how dual points works though. dude gave me the truck cause his points kept burnin up, same with the battery and alt.after me replacing the regulator and pulling all kinds of wiring out that i didn't need to turns out all it was was that the dist. shared a fuse with the reverse lights which weren't hooked up so the dist. was getting about 30 volts instead of 9-10


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2003 12:54 pm 
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Something is amiss. The truck's charging system and battery is rated a 12 volts DC.(14.5 volts max charging) There's no way you can get 30 volts running thru the system. Where you meaning to say 30 amps? Even if it were that, the fuses are rated at 15 amps max at the fuse block. Does the distributor/ignition system have a resistor? It's a white, rectangle shaped item that is wired in to the system just before the coil. Has it been bypassed in some way? If it has, it will kill a set of points in short order. Take a look at the wiring diagram of your truck in the information section of the site and compare the ignition system to your truck. You may find that the wiring has been modified to get the truck running but it isn't correct.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2003 3:11 pm 
the coil does have a resistor on it.it was getting a 25 volt reading at the coil lead untill i unhooked the tail light circuit, then it dropped down to 9 volts


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2003 3:41 pm 
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
You shouldn't get a 25 volt reading anywhere on the truck. You are checking DC voltage, arent you?

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2003 3:56 pm 
yeah man! it really was reading 25v dc current ! after about a week of driving it like that, my friend would burn points, battery , alternator,even starter.when i got it , the batt. was good . so was the alt., but the starter was gone.know i'm trying to decide on what to do about my cut out problem.any sugguestionns on a easy replacement carb? no emissions controls on this baby


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2003 6:22 pm 
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Location: McChord AFB WA by way of Spokane WA
i dont know its definetly not a stock motor thats for shure. But im wondering if its actually a Daimler Benze motor, in the late 80s they played around whith 24V motors but i dint think anny of them made it to market. The only other motor i can think of that has 24V is a deisle and since you have a distributor that rules that one out. :?

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...


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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2003 5:33 am 
Mepr..fill me in on what a Daimler Benze motor is, i havent ever heard that before!Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2003 1:40 pm 
if you are getting a reading of more that 14 volts anywhere on the truck i would start by checking the external voltage regulator, bucause it could be that it's being stupid and you need a new one. don't worry you'll figure it out.


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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2003 9:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Can you post a picture of the engine? Im sure that we would all like to see this motor and determine if it's a stock motor.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2003 12:01 am 
:lol: Looks stock to me. it has the isuzu 1.8l in it. :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2003 12:14 am 
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Is the carb on the drivers side of the block or on the passenger side of the block? Does the valve cover look like a flat pan on top of the motor or does it look like a cover plate thats angled across the cam housing?

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2003 8:33 pm 
Blue Meanie wrote:
Is the carb on the drivers side of the block or on the passenger side of the block? Does the valve cover look like a flat pan on top of the motor or does it look like a cover plate thats angled across the cam housing?



the carb is on the driver side. i'm not sure what you mean about the valve cover. it's not angled as far as i can tell. it does say isuzu ,wish i could post some pics.. :?


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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2003 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Go to the main gallery of the site and find the pics of my truck (John Lamphear) Click on the pic of the Blue Meanie and it will open up to other pics. There's a pic of my stock motor and tell us if thats the motor you have.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2003 6:09 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2002 10:15 pm
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Location: Colorado Springs
no blue meanie for me man. there's just one empty space there :?

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1980 luv sport 4x4 Just a memory now :(
Frame rusted from the inside. Truck stripped and now looking for a new donor in southern ohio


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PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2003 6:00 pm 
yeah ,that's the one. timing chain cover in the same place, carb on the same side.still don't know why exhaust manifold changed durring '72 to '73 :?:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2003 4:48 pm 
hey Meanie, it's funny you said that manifold may be a toyota application cause when i took it back to the yard, the guy asked me if it was a toyota. unfortunately,
my :2gunfire: :rainbowafro: wife didn't save the reciept :x so now i have a real ugly paperweight.[/quote]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2003 4:55 pm 
P.S. I'm not a pig :P


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