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 Post subject: Missing
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 9:34 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2004 5:08 pm
Posts: 131
Location: Auburn, CA
Well after my 300 mile drive to Santa Rosa (round trip) my truck started missing. It didn't start doing it until I got back and started driving it around town...

When it was idling I started pulling plug wires to see what was missing, well it ran the same with 2 of the wires off, so 2 of them are having problems. I replaced the plug and checked the points and it is till doing it... I may replace the points (even though I did it about 5,000 miles ago) because they aren't too expensive.
How much would it be to swap to electronic from a newer PUP?

What else could it be? I don't have any ideas, I'm willing to check what ever you suggest.
Oh, and it also smells like it's running lean, if that may be a problem...

Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 1:19 pm 
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Location: Brownwood Tx
I feel for ya, mine would go through points, caps etc like crazy...usualy just about the time I'd brag to the wife about how good it was running. :)

I eventualy went the Pertronix Igniter option, though they don't make an exact kit for the 79 Nippon dizzy, I managed to get the 1741 kit in mine and it runs great now, starts easy, idle perfect and never misses a beat at any rpm. The 1741 kit is intended for the 72-74 Luv.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 2:05 pm 
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Location: Auburn, CA
Hmmmmm.... How hard was it to install? Would this be a better route to go rather than one out of a PUP?

Did you have to upgrade the coil also?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 2:40 pm 
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Location: Brownwood Tx
For me it was a matter of availability and the price compared to an electronic dizzy.


Did not have to remove the distributor, but I did pull the plate from the bottom and the vac pump, makes the rest easier.
Then, using a rotozip I trimmed the thin aluminum plate the sensor is mounted to, mostly so it would clear the vac advance arm and drilled 2 holes in the dizzy plate. I later realized that I could probably just drilled out the rivets holding the sensor and mounted it directly to the dizzy plate.

I used good quality aluminum tape to make build up the rotor shaft where the magnet sleev mounts, there is only about a
1/32 - 1/16" difference. Have used the tape in outdoor wireless bridge and AP installations, stuff sticks like crazy, my original concern was the centrifugal force would tear it loose...not an issue.

Aside from that, there are 2 wires. And no need to upgrade the coil.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 3:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 6:51 pm
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Location: Raeford, NC
They have isuzu electronic distributors on ebay for 112.66 plus 8.00 shipping. Just enter isuzu electronic distributor.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:42 pm 
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Location: McMinnville, OR
I went out to go to work one morning and my truck was missing, but I found it. :P Seriously though, first thing I would do is run a compression check. You may have lost part of the head gasket between cylinders or something. Also check your water and oil for signs of the two mixing. You didn't mention which two cylinders it was, typically the head gasket will go between #2 and #3 from what I've seen.

Hopefully it isn't the headgasket, but you do have some of the symptoms. You should also swap the wires around and try another cap to make sure it isn't just an electrical gremlin that cropped up. I make it part of my regular upkeep to scrape the terminals inside the cap too, you could just have buildup on a couple of them.

The compression check should rule out the worst of the possibilities. I've also had the adjuster lock nut come loose on the valve adjustment and cause a miss and low compression in one cylinder so even if it looks bad check that out valve adjustment before you have to tear into things.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 7:43 pm
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Location: Sequim, WA
get new condensor(5$), points(12$) and adjust your valves.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 7:10 pm 
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Location: Auburn, CA
It was #1 and #4 that were acting up... I replaced the cap and rotor when I did the points. We cleaned the cap and rotor off to insure a good contact and its still missing.

I checked the oil and it doesn't seem like any water is in it.

I'll start with points and swapping wires. And if that doesn't solve anything I will get my compression checked.

Thanks for all the help!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:00 am 
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Location: Auburn, CA
Ok, I'm changing the points tonight, what is the gap supposed to be?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:04 am 
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Location: Pelahatchie, MS
.016 - .020 in / 0.4 - 0.5 mm

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:36 pm 
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Location: Western, WA
i gap all my points with the edge of a match book.. works every time :wink:
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:07 pm 
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Location: Auburn, CA
Well I replaced to points and still nothing...

My friend that stores my truck for me has a diagnostic machine that I think I'm going to hook it up to, to see if we can figure it out...


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 12:21 pm 
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Location: Auburn, CA
This weekend I think we are going to check the compression even though the oil and anti freeze look ok since my friend has a tester and adjust the valves. I figure even if its not the problem it needs to be done.

Would a problem with the carb cause the missing in 2 of the cyliders? I wouldn't think so, but it has acted up before. Should I rebuild the carb?

Any other sugestions if the valves and compression check out ok?

Would my truck pass smog if I changed the cam? Would I need to upgrade anything else and how much power would I get? How much money would it cost and how long of a wait?
Figure if I'm checking the valves it may be a good time to swap it out...

Anything else that I could do while the valve cover is off to help out the little 4 banger?


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