LUVTruck.com

FYI- MALLORY HAS A DISTRIBITOR FOR THE 4 BANGER.A LITTLE PRICEY THOUGH-ABOUT $400 BUCK LAST TIME I CHECKED. PLUS OTHER COOL STUFF. HERE IS THEIR SITE-WWW.MALLORYRACING.COM

I was looking for an electronic ignition type dizzy. the sticker shock eventually lead me to this route, http://www.vintageperformance.com/retro ... gnitor.htm

I have one installed on my 79, best $70 I've ever spent. Also running it with an MSD 5200.

_________________


FIAA: Color Guard

COOL! THANKS FOR THE INFO. IT SAYS FOR 74-75, I WAS WONDERING IF IT WOULD WORK ON LATER MODELS.

Yep, call them with your distributor make and model. Some slight, easy modification to fit some dizzys.

From their website: Is PerTronix interested in making kits for other applications, currently not covered in their product range?

Yes. As a matter of fact, in the last five years we’ve added approximately 30-40 new kits to our application listings. We are constantly working on developing new kits to provide coverage in many areas. For more specific information regarding our custom installations call our main office at 800-827-3758. The more information you have about your vehicle or equipment the better.


Call and ask for Tech dept.

_________________


FIAA: Color Guard

THANKS AGAIN! P.S. LUV THE PAINT JOB

that pertronix deal is what ive been lookin for!!

who did you order it through?

this would help the 77 out sooo much right now.

_________________
"but its that gut feeling of you're drawn to what feels right for yourself and what you're passionate about..."

same here..would help my 80 out a lot..been keeping an eye out for the factory electronic ignition on the later 1.9 powered Trooper and Pup..but here in AZ none of the yards have any other the stuff

_________________
'80 Luv 4x4, 3" BL, 1.5" SL, 32/36, 2.25" exhaust...and fuzzy dice.
'95 Toyota 4Runner Limited 5-Speed.

All the 82 Pups, Imarks, and Luv's that have a 1.8 or 1.9 use the same electronic distributor and ignition module...if that helps.

Plus Accel sells a high output coil for under $50.00 that works perfect with this setup. That's what I'm running now and it works great.

Have you tried looking on this site?

http://car-part.com/

That may help...

This is where I ordered http://www.carshopinc.com/index.php/cPa ... 529fd398be

The 1741 kit will work, but requires a little modification, and the loss of the vac advance(whooppie doo) of course after I did all that, I called Pertronix Tech guys with my dizzy info, and they said for the Nippondenso, a better fit would be module XX, with magnet XX...can't remember the numbers. They are very helpful, if you don't find a kit exactly listed for your truck, then give em a call.

Also, the Pertronix route does not require the additional "black box", extra wiring(2 wires) or yanking dizzy out, and price of a later model dizzy. I was originaly going to attempt this route, til saw the price and could not find one in a salvage yard anywhere near me. I am also running mine along with MSD 5200 and Blaster coil with ballast resistor. No more hesitant, peddal pumping crank, crank, crank early morning starts, no missing or chuging at higher rpm's, no dieseling shutdowns, truck runs better than I could have expected. If it weren't for the clutch pedal, I could easily lean in, turn the key and start right up....like a normal car

Have not used or heard results, but Crane cams also makes a set similar to the Pertronix Ignitor.

Not shooting down one idea for another, just letting ya know what worked for me. Wold be happy to help, pictures or otherwise...time zone differences permitting

_________________


FIAA: Color Guard

Theirs a remanufacture electronic distributor on ebay for $122.66 plus $8.00 shipping by fruit ridge automotive.

Short video clip of my engine startup, with Pertronix Igniter. And to answer again, a PM I got earlier...no I am not a rep or salesman of their company, just a huge fan now.
And now my son is ticked, said he didn't like the audio of his voice... I said " but son, the whole point is to hear the video"

_________________


FIAA: Color Guard

Hope I'm not hijacking this thread...

Here are some photos of the same model dizzy I just put in my truck. Pulled from an '85 Isuzu 1.9. It was way easier than I imagined.

I had a Pertonix on my old Rambler 196, but it was a painful experience to install and get a coil that would work with it properly. There just wasn't enough room to get the wiring installed correctly, and I HATE pulling points knowing that I might have to reinstall, regap and redwell them.

This, however, is a ONE bolt, ONE wire exchange, plus the distributor itself. So, if it doesn't work, you can just crimp an eyelet to the negative lead and drop your old one back in.

Here's directions (let me know if I left something out):

1. Remove the negative coil lead on the distributor body.
2. Snip the fork off the end, and crimp on a male spade.
3. Crimp an eyelet that will fit on the coil secondary post on the end of a 14-20" piece of 12/14 gauge wire, and a male spade on the other end.
4. Roll the fan until the engine is at TDC. Remove the coil to distributor lead at the distributor (The one in the middle of the cap, same gauge as a plug wire). Pull the distributor cap to make sure the rotor is pointing in the general direction of the #1 plug lead. Tuck the cap up and away from the work area, no need to disconnect the wiring just yet.
5. Mark the body of the distributor in relation to the block AND the rotor in relation to the distributor shell (just in case you have to put it back).
6. Pull the distributor bolt and hold down, pull the vacuum advance hose, remove the distributor.
7. Put the new rotor on the electronic distributor, orient it closely to the way the old one came out, and slide it in. Make sure the blade end engaged properly by slightly twisting the rotor. If it won't seat all the way into the block, wiggle the rotor until it drops in. Put the distributor hold down back on, and bolt it down, but leave it loose enough to be able to move the distributor without breaking stuff. Reconnect the vacuum advance hose (or plug it until you've set the timing).
8. Place the spade of your new (red?) wire from the + side of the coil in the slot with the black wire with a yellow/orange stripe.
9. Place the spade from the old distributor (- side of coil) in the other slot.
10. Remove the battery cable or whatever you feel is safe at this point.
11. Disconnect the wiring to the + side of the coil, slip your new (red?) wire eyelet on, and put it back together.
12. Put your new cap on, and move the plug wires from the old cap to the new. Don't forget the coil wire.
13. Start your truck.
14. Adjust the timing as needed. Tighten down the distributor hold down, reconnect the vacuum advance.

That's it, feel free to GRIN like crazy when you're done. I know I did.

On a side note: ctmandu and I have the same style distributor, and there was some discussion about the ballast resistor on the coil. He left it connected, as did I. He's had his in for a year or so, with no apparent problems, and mine does not seem any hotter than it did before the swap.

Sorry if this is juvenile stuff for some of you guys, I was terrified to actually do this. When I finished, I was amazed. So, on to my photos...

It looks like the trigger is slightly different in these photos, although they both claim to be the same PN. Mine has the more square trigger, as opposed to the spoke style in the first photo (and the NAPA pic).

A-1 CARDONE Part # 31550 ('85 Isuzu P'up)






NAPA PN: NRD48550



I posted the PN for the cap and rotor in another thread, but here are the Bosch PN's for those:

Cap 03188
Rotor 04081

Why just swap the points, when for a little extra (or less, used) you can change the whole dizzy? There's a reman for sale now on ebay buy-it-now for $120 including shipping. I've bought stuff from fruitridge in the past, and have received excellent products and service.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Distribu ... dZViewItem

This next one is also a stock unit, and looks to me like it would need an external ignitor of some sort. It looks like this is just the Hall effect pickup added where the points used to go.

A-1 CARDONE Part # 31628 ('82 Luv)



NAPA PN: NRD48628



This hopefully will give everyone an idea of what to keep an eye out for in the yards, or online

I've sent an inquiry, and I'm gonna get one too! It's a distributor called Retro Rockets, and I wanna thank 79-LUV'r for the link as well as the advice.

Kudos to Tazman for his advice and influence as well. Catman has one of these too, if I remember right.

LONG LIVE THE LUV.

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

That is a sweet lookin dizzy.

_________________


FIAA: Color Guard

Just to let you guys know, the Pertonix I put on my old Rambler actually worked VERY well once I got it installed. It's a good product. The issue I had was trying to get the wiring on the ignitor in a position that didn't rub when the plates moved. I probably could have just pulled the vacuum advance, but it never occured to me at the time. Doh. The stock electronic distributor is one option, but I've had good results with the Pertronix too.

One of the things Troy said to me when he was here helping me out was, 'It's your truck, what do you want to do?'. Sort of a reminder to have a little fun and take some chances. Simple enough, but it did me good to hear it. So, it's really up to you which option you choose. They are both relatively easy...

Just to let y'all know, I ended up ordering the unit from Fruit Ridge Tools in NY. I'm going to be putting the unit in with the cap and rotor NukeDay recommended. I have ordered the rotor from PartsAmerica, and the cap from RockAuto.

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

I got my new electronic distributor today, and I need something cleared up. I also got the new rotor from PartsAmerica today; picked it up at Schucks. The cap is going to take awhile, seems RockAuto can't find one very fast. It might not be here for another week.

My question is Nukeday, You said--11. Disconnect the wiring to the + side of the coil, slip your new (red?) wire eyelet on, and put it back together. I wonder if you mean to take off the resistor wire too, or just the other one? You said you and Catman both are using the stock external resistor without any problem. When you say put it back together, do you mean all the wires?

What about the control module? I was reading about that in another thread, and I think I might be confused about the Pertronix setup.

Also, do I use the condenser? Seems like no...

Also I would like to know if anyone knows where I could get a fit for the wiring plug, so I don't have to use spades????

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

The box/With the rotor attached

I still got to wait for the cap to come from RockAuto, which is going to be awhile maybe.

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

You should only need to remove the nut from the + (plus) on the coil, place the new wire with the eyelet on the stud and put the nut back on. Then the other end of that wire goes to the black w/ stripe connection at the dizzy. The other wire from your old distributor is the coil - (minus) wire. I suggested putting a spade on this and placing it in the other slot in your dizzy connector. The wiring from the coil does go up to the ballast resistor, just leave it on the stud. You should not need anything else, except the vacuum advance hose and the distributor. When everything is working properly, you can make a more permanent connection to the distributor. I think you'd need to look for an '85-'86 Trooper or Pup to get the chassis side connector. You could also clip off the connector on the dizzy and hardwire it through to the coil. I think I'm just going to use a rubber grommet off a plug wire to cover the two spade connectors.

Be careful with the coil studs, it is very easy to cross thread the nuts and end up with a poor connection.

Don't overthink it, this is not even in the same category as an engine rebuild. It's simpler even than a carb swap...

Let me know if there's anything else I can clarify. I'll try to get a pic of mine this weekend...

_________________
"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Remember, there's two wires at present on the + side of the coil, and so it is now my understanding that they remain on there. Thanks Nukeday, and I will take lotsa pics, so everybody can see clearly. Nice term, chassis side connector! That's what I want, but I can wait for that. It's waiting for the cap that has me peeved.

When I got the rotor, I thought, "Man, it looks exactly the same!". I tried it in the stock dizzy, and found it to be loose. A couple hours later when the new electronic dizzy arrived, I put the rotor on and it was snug as a bug!! Thanks for sharing your hard work in getting the right parts to fit. The instructions you gave are way better than the instructions that are included with the e-dizzy!

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.