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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 3:24 am 
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Location: Marysville,WA
So you dont need that little ignition module deal? Just hook up the wires of the dizzy and go? I have the module and the dizzy but the module has all these different color wires that dont match up to the article on this site.
My luv isn't drivable right now but Id like to put it on before its back on the road.

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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 6:39 am 
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TJ, Fastenal has a place in every major city in the Seattle area, including not far from where I am. I will go by there and see the Rivnut® tool soon.

Dan, your electronic ignition depends on the style you chose. All I know is mine has the ignition module built in, so it's not separate. I also bypassed the ballast resistor by going to the positive terminal instead of going to the resistor first. If this is confusing, let me say it another way. The wire that goes to the ballast resistor from the wiring harness should go to the positive terminal of the coil. The wire that goes from the ballast resistor to the coil can just be left hanging, or just put it on itself to keep it out of the way. All the other wiring is the way Nukeday said in the MALLORY DIST. thread, and I copied it for you here:

"Here's directions (let me know if I left something out):

1. Remove the negative coil lead on the distributor body.
2. Snip the fork off the end, and crimp on a male spade.
3. Crimp an eyelet that will fit on the coil secondary post on the end of a 14-20" piece of 12/14 gauge wire, and a male spade on the other end.
4. Roll the fan until the engine is at TDC. Remove the coil to distributor lead at the distributor (The one in the middle of the cap, same gauge as a plug wire). Pull the distributor cap to make sure the rotor is pointing in the general direction of the #1 plug lead. Tuck the cap up and away from the work area, no need to disconnect the wiring just yet.
5. Mark the body of the distributor in relation to the block AND the rotor in relation to the distributor shell (just in case you have to put it back).
6. Pull the distributor bolt and hold down, pull the vacuum advance hose, remove the distributor.
7. Put the new rotor on the electronic distributor, orient it closely to the way the old one came out, and slide it in. Make sure the blade end engaged properly by slightly twisting the rotor. If it won't seat all the way into the block, wiggle the rotor until it drops in. Put the distributor hold down back on, and bolt it down, but leave it loose enough to be able to move the distributor without breaking stuff. Reconnect the vacuum advance hose (or plug it until you've set the timing).
8. Place the spade of your new (red?) wire from the + side of the coil in the slot with the black wire with a yellow/orange stripe.
9. Place the spade from the old distributor (- side of coil) in the other slot.
10. Remove the battery cable or whatever you feel is safe at this point.
11. Disconnect the wiring to the + side of the coil, slip your new (red?) wire eyelet on, and put it back together.
12. Put your new cap on, and move the plug wires from the old cap to the new. Don't forget the coil wire.
13. Start your truck.
14. Adjust the timing as needed. Tighten down the distributor hold down, reconnect the vacuum advance.

That's it, feel free to GRIN like crazy when you're done. I know I did."


Any questions go ahead and ask. That's what we're here for!!!

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 Post subject: Food for Thought
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 6:50 am 
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Location: Covington, WA
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isuzu_Gemini

I find it interesting to remember that I once owned a Chevy Spectrum, which is related to the Chevy LUV and the Isuzu I-Mark by the same engines being used!!! I sold it after somebody rear-ended me. It was a great little car.

The 1985 Isuzu I-Mark is the vehicle that my dizzy came from. It's remanufactured and they claim it's better than original. Here it is available at Schucks, Checker, or Kraagen!!! Free shipping, too!!!

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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 8:51 am 
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Dumb question time....

What, if any, are the disavantages of not using vac advance to the distributer? I am running a Weber carb, Pertronix ignitor in my dizzy, MSD 5200 with Blaster coil. Removed the vac advance to have room for the ignitor module. Engine runs great(even with AC), but am I missing out on anything not having the advance?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 9:19 am 
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I have to say I don't know what you're missing if you're doing okay without it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, right? Nobody says you can't improve it though. I always thought the vacuum advance was to adjust the timing for a higher RPM. Maybe the setup you're using doesn't need it. Somebody else should know more than I do on this subject of Pertronix ignition.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:04 am 
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The Vac. adv. was designed to adv. the timing at low throttle or cruise speeds for fuel economy and it will drop out at full throttle ( see a pattern here) so yes you most deffinitly run with out it but you nee to put in more initial adv. to get the total adv. to where the engine wants to run right.I took the vac. adv. off of my HEI dist. and modified the mech.adv. to get the adv. curve that i wanted.On your engine this can be done by changing the springs on the adv.(lighter ones) if you have an adjustable timing light you can set the total at about 3000rpms then see what it is at idle an if it will start ok leave it there.RULE #1 ALWAYS GO BY THE TOTAL TIMING NOT THE INITIAL ADV. or for the one that don't quite understand adv. the timing until it starts pinging then back up 4-6 degrees and it will run good. That it for the short course today :wink:

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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 12:30 pm 
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Sounds good to me, think I'll leave it as I have it now with no vac advance, I don't usualy do that much hiway driving any way, except for the 10 mile trip out to work at the deer lease. I'm kinda thinking I read where the Pertronix module is "smart" as it senses and makes up for engine load changes, I know it seems to adjust very well to flipping on the A/C, there is a 1/4 second change in rpm then it seems to adjust to the change increasing rpm slightly then steadies out.

Another question, is the dizzy on a stock Luv grounded? If so where and how? Was reading back over the instruction for the Pertronix stuff and it mentions making sure the dizzy is grounded. Reason I ask, my tach seems to be flipping out again. Could be faulty tach, it will act normal at startup, idle fine, then when I accelerate from 1st to 2nd it jumps up for a splt second then bottoms out @ 0, then as I accelerate to what would normaly be around 2800-3000+ rpms it reads fine, but if I coast in gear it becomes irratic again or bottoms out. :? seems ok when bypassing the ballast, but the Pertronix no likey that.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 3:29 pm 
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What kind and how old is your tach? Some tach. don't agree with electronic ign.. but you can call the manu. and get the info you need ,some yous a resister in line to make them work but check first with the manu.

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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 7:21 pm 
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I went to get gas, and on the way back couldn't hardly get up a hill. I don't know what happened, but the gas sure looks funny, because I ended up today changing the fuel filter down by the tank, and it was full of milky gas. I decided to advance the timing from 9° to 12°, and it seems to run okay. I don't know if I did the right thing to change the coil, and I am thinking about throwing the first one back on there. Ran great yesterday, and ran great before we filled up at 7-11. Bad gas? The gas coming from the hose was milky white. The filter has a whole lot of debris in it. I'm thinking I might need to pull the tank off and flush it out. Maybe I should try siphoning out the gas and take a good look at it. Get one of those remote cameras to send in there and have a look at it! The gas always looked fine up under the hood where there's another filter.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 7:33 pm 
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It's 7-11! The gas will be as lousy as the coffee. Spend the extra 8cents a gollon and go to Chevron or Mobil or 76. $1.50 per fill up is not much savings when you have to pull the tank out. Arco sucks too.


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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 7:38 pm 
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When it comes to buying gas I apply the same rule I used when I had my Jetta TDi(diesel), I always buy from a pump located along a hiway, lotsa sales volume and better chance their tanks are filled more frequently

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 10:02 pm 
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Is it possible someone put something in your tank? Almost sounds like sugar...

A couple of .99 cans of ISO-HEET will help clear water from the fuel. There are other similar products for this purpose also. This would be a quick way to see if it's just water in the fuel and it's a lot less work than dropping the tank.

My .02 cents :)

-----

Dan - You can pick up a used electronic dizzy via http://www.car-parts.com also. I paid $65 for mine and it works just fine. It was out of an '85 Trooper w/1.9. My cap was for an '87 P'up, so there is a range of years/models to look for. Take a good look at the photo fullaluv' put up, so you know what to look for in the yard..
Covey's (http://www.coveysmazdaparts.com/) right there in Marysville has one listed, but no price...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 4:57 pm
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Location: Cornelius Ore
Vacuum advance? Tj white explained it pretty good. It is an economy device for part throttle cruising. Will usually increase mileage about 2-4 mpg depending on the vehicle. If always in stop and go traffic it will make little difference.
If you have it I would use it.
Distributor is indeed grounded. Breaker plate is mounted on the distributor metal housing, the housing is grounded to the engine block, so yes the dizzy is grounded.
Fullaluv--yes puts some fuel in a glass and let it settle overnight to see what is in it. Something like sugar could be a big big problem.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:51 pm 
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Posts: 721
Location: Marysville,WA
FullaLuv wrote:
TJ, Fastenal has a place in every major city in the Seattle area, including not far from where I am. I will go by there and see the Rivnut® tool soon.

Dan, your electronic ignition depends on the style you chose. All I know is mine has the ignition module built in, so it's not separate. I also bypassed the ballast resistor by going to the positive terminal instead of going to the resistor first. If this is confusing, let me say it another way. The wire that goes to the ballast resistor from the wiring harness should go to the positive terminal of the coil. The wire that goes from the ballast resistor to the coil can just be left hanging, or just put it on itself to keep it out of the way. All the other wiring is the way Nukeday said in the MALLORY DIST. thread, and I copied it for you here:

"Here's directions (let me know if I left something out):

1. Remove the negative coil lead on the distributor body.
2. Snip the fork off the end, and crimp on a male spade.
3. Crimp an eyelet that will fit on the coil secondary post on the end of a 14-20" piece of 12/14 gauge wire, and a male spade on the other end.
4. Roll the fan until the engine is at TDC. Remove the coil to distributor lead at the distributor (The one in the middle of the cap, same gauge as a plug wire). Pull the distributor cap to make sure the rotor is pointing in the general direction of the #1 plug lead. Tuck the cap up and away from the work area, no need to disconnect the wiring just yet.
5. Mark the body of the distributor in relation to the block AND the rotor in relation to the distributor shell (just in case you have to put it back).
6. Pull the distributor bolt and hold down, pull the vacuum advance hose, remove the distributor.
7. Put the new rotor on the electronic distributor, orient it closely to the way the old one came out, and slide it in. Make sure the blade end engaged properly by slightly twisting the rotor. If it won't seat all the way into the block, wiggle the rotor until it drops in. Put the distributor hold down back on, and bolt it down, but leave it loose enough to be able to move the distributor without breaking stuff. Reconnect the vacuum advance hose (or plug it until you've set the timing).
8. Place the spade of your new (red?) wire from the + side of the coil in the slot with the black wire with a yellow/orange stripe.
9. Place the spade from the old distributor (- side of coil) in the other slot.
10. Remove the battery cable or whatever you feel is safe at this point.
11. Disconnect the wiring to the + side of the coil, slip your new (red?) wire eyelet on, and put it back together.
12. Put your new cap on, and move the plug wires from the old cap to the new. Don't forget the coil wire.
13. Start your truck.
14. Adjust the timing as needed. Tighten down the distributor hold down, reconnect the vacuum advance.

That's it, feel free to GRIN like crazy when you're done. I know I did."


Any questions go ahead and ask. That's what we're here for!!!


Thanks 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 8:27 am 
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I went to the hardware store where I bought the rivnuts to install the sideview mirrors. I took a look again at the rivnuts. They call them blind nuts there. I asked about a tool for installing the rivnuts, and they didn't have one. :!: So I looked in the box of assorted rivnuts, and I saw there's a "tool" for each size that is only about $2. It looks like a nut, but is not threaded, and has a straight hole through it for the screw or bolt you're using on the rivnut to be used to do the crimping. Then just do the application. So then you could do it yourself (sideview mirrors, 8 screws) for less than $10. That's if you already have the drill motor and correct bit size.

I will put a bottle of HEET® in my tank today. I saw a LUV gas tank yesterday without the bed on it. There's only three bolts in front and three bolts in back, then all I have to do is drop the tank and remove the hoses and fuel-level sensor lead. I have a full tank now with a new filter next to it, so I'm going to drop in the HEET® and run all over King county, then I will give it serious consideration to go ahead and flush out the gas tank. POR-15 has a special application for gas tanks that I'm also going to consider. Might even replace all the hoses, why not?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 10:15 pm 
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nukeday wrote:

Dan - You can pick up a used electronic dizzy via http://www.car-parts.com also. I paid $65 for mine and it works just fine. It was out of an '85 Trooper w/1.9. My cap was for an '87 P'up, so there is a range of years/models to look for. Take a good look at the photo fullaluv' put up, so you know what to look for in the yard..
Covey's (http://www.coveysmazdaparts.com/) right there in Marysville has one listed, but no price...


Cool coveys is right down the road from me! I'll go there tommorow to see how much he wants for it. Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 11:18 pm 
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Here's the guts of the one piece unit...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 6:10 am 
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That's it exactly! That's the e-dizzy!

I don't know if I did the right thing taking the resistor out of the loop, but my truck runs okay, it's just seems to have lost a little oomph. Don't get me wrong, it's running great, but I took it up the same hill yesterday, and it did the same thing. This is after a new fuel filter. Well, I think I got some lousy gas. I'm going to use most of it, then seriously consider dropping the tank and flushing it, then changing both the fuel filters. I understand there's another one on the fuel pump, right? Is that a screen, or what? I'm going to have to find out.

I went up another hill yesterday too, with no trouble. Makes me start wondering about the earth's magnetic field and how it might be affecting my fuel delivery. Oh, forget it.

I drove another guy's LUV yesterday. He lives close to me. He bought a new Harley yesterday for over $18,000 and I drove his LUV back, while he followed behind on his new Harley Springer. His LUV has a hydraulic clutch, so the pedal works differently, but otherwise it worked like my truck. I thought his acceleration was a little snappier than mine, but it's pretty close. Anyway, when we got back, I hopped out and said I wanted to see what his timing was doing; so he gave me a few minutes to throw on the timing light, and I found he was running the same as me: 12°BTDC. It must be bad gas.

I agree 7-11 was a very poor choice. It won't happen again. 79- LUV'r is right on about the frequently used stations. I had been getting gas from an AM-PM in town which is always busy and never had any trouble.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 11:34 am 
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I put between 20-40K a year on my Saab 900 for nearly 5 years in a row, so I have a bit of experience with this too. '79-luvr is right on target regarding where to get decent gas. I've been in some pretty remote areas and ended up with gas that the shop owner bought sometime in 1987, it even smelled like a 'hair band'...or maybe Keith Richards...

What worked best for me was to just keep filling the tank (with good gas) every couple of hundred miles, to dillute the bad stuff. I always had a can of Heet and STP fuel treatment in the car too. The STP always seems to help a bit in the 'oomph' department.

I'd be happy to trade you problems with our trucks, come on down and we can trade straight across. :lol: :roll: :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 12:59 pm 
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I know you would, but I think I will keep the RumbleBee and it'll be okay. I'd like to visit y'all sometime though. I don't know when, but we'll keep thinking about it.

I'm expecting a new camshaft to arrive today, and I'm going to go get that hex key socket that I need for the 10mm hex head bolts in a few minutes. I don't want to keep removing and reinstalling the top cover after I put the new gasket on, so it's gotta be done together. I'll see about that STP treatment too.

Cheers, FullaLuv

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