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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:49 am 
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Welcome to the new thread! I was having trouble getting the whole thing to come in, (DSL), and had to refresh two or three times to get the whole final page, so I started a new thread. Appropriately enough, the engine is at the beginning of assembly, and as you will see there will be photos aplenty.

I must begin by saying that the work done by Pacific Auto Machine has been awesome and precise. Great quality service, and I highly recommend them to all you LUVvers. I plastigaged the main bearings, and the rod bearings. All the main bearings had .0015" oil clearance, and all the rods had .002" oil clearance. I assembled the short block yesterday, with Lisa taking most of the pictures.

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I blew out the crankshaft oil passages with brake cleaner and compressed air/Olympia meets Salem

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Three blocks. Taz's block is under the table saw/Plastigage on the first main bearing

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All the mains were plastigaged together!/Starting to re-ring

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#1 piston with the new rings installed. Top ring is chrome./Compressing the rings

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.030" oversized pistons in a matched set/Installing the second compression ring with a stepped-edge downward

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I dipped the piston ring lands in oil before compressing/Engine assembly lube was used on all the bearing caps

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A new rod bearing/Plastigaging the rods...they were all .002"

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All torqued down! Main caps were 72 ft/lbs and rod caps were 43 ft/lbs./Smooth moving!

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A work of art!/Awesome precision!

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I LUV the yellow!/Timing gear and spiral gear installed

Next post: Installing the rear main oil seal

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:29 am 
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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:39 am 
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A thing of beauty... :D

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:23 pm 
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beautiful :D


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:12 pm 
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Hey Jon,

If you haven't already somewhere else, would you mind posting a list of part numbers and sources etc.

Thanks in advance
Jim

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 Post subject: New Engine
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:05 pm 
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Well, I can say one thing for sure, you don't need the lights on to take any pictures. That thing shines like the sun! Great job, John. Keep it up and you'll have that Luv running in no time!

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:09 pm 
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looking awsome john!!

i just got the rebuild kit for my hybrid engine im gonna be building. so hopefully ill have some similar pictures up soon.

keep up the great work man!!

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 Post subject: Yesterday
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:23 pm 
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Yesterday started out pretty good. The wifey went somewhere, the kid was in school, and I had it all going for me. I was planning to do the rear main oil seal, but changed course when I remembered I hadn't gotten the recommended sealant for the metal to metal bond the retainer has. I decided to assemble the cylinder head. I put the front timing components together. Then Pacific Auto Machine called. Now they've been clued in to the existence of the website, and have watched the progress I've been making. They called out of concern for not having seen one important step in engine rebuilding; the ring end gap. Had I checked it, they asked. Well no. I had paid for a good set, so why worry? You just never know until you've checked. So I checked. That took the rest of the day. I had to remove all the pistons and rings one at a time, and reinstall. The end gaps were perfect; none were less than .012" Fred, my son, took the last photos and a video.

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Engine on the bench/Engine crane in use

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Rear main oil seal (Still needs to be packed with grease)/Folded up, engine is back on stand

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Cylinder head and camshaft ready for assembly/All the parts laid out

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Engine assembly lube on rockers and cam lobes/All assembled

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Assembling the timing components/Placing the front cover gasket

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More sealant on the gasket/Punch mark on the oil pump drive gear. This was incorrect. It was a gear tooth off.

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Front cover on/Rings removed from #1 piston

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Gauging the piston ring end gap/Replacing the #1 piston

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#4 piston removed/Putting assembly lube on #4 upper rod bearing

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Dipping rings in oil prior to cylinder insertion/A ring compressor

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Compressing the rings/Guiding the rod bolts past the journal

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 Post subject: A couple videos
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 3:21 pm 
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Here's a couple videos!! The first one was tapping down the piston while reaching under and guiding the bolts past the rod journals. I noticed it was a waste of time to put rubber hose over the bolts. The reason was the bolts never touched the crank journal if you turn the crank down to it's lowest point. When I installed the pistons first, the hose was leaving a rubber smudge on the journals, and I had to wipe it off. I found this method worked better on an engine stand.

The second video is 3:15 in length, and my son was having fun with the camera. Here I had finished tapping the piston down, and I completed the job by torquing down the piston rod cap nuts to 43 ft/lbs.

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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 3:43 pm 
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John

Seriously, you should sooo re-write and publish the Haynes/Chiltons Luv manuals.

I'd buy 2 :D


Compared to yours, it's like the Haynes guy took pics with one of these.
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Last edited by 79-LUV'r on Thu Feb 22, 2007 5:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:40 pm 
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a darn good job to you and your son that is a big help to just about all of us it is nice to see some action not just read and look at the pics keep up the good job guys :onfire:

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 Post subject: A Slight Delay
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 7:46 pm 
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I noticed a step from the block to the timing cover, and I have decided it needs to be taken down. The difference between the cover and the top surface of the block is .012". That's going to cause problems with premature head gasket failure and oil leakage. I've already removed the front cover, and now I just need to get the cover in to the machine shop to shave it down that .012". I will have to wait until the cover is back here before I can continue. I got a great close-up photo of what I'm saying here.

The dowels do not allow for any adjustment in the cover's placement. The bottom of the cover does match the block. I also tried the other cover from Tazman's engine, with the same results.

Since there's a delay here, I get to focus some energy in photographing the timing components a little better.

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 Post subject: Fantastic!
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 8:25 pm 
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John, I'm am soooooo impressed by your tenacity and driving desire to do this right!

Fred, Awesome job with the video camera!!!

I don't know about all of you other Luv owner's, but this and John's other thread has got to be suggested for some kind of an award. This of course is not to take anything away from all of you who have shared your pictures and experiences with us. And believe me I check them all, especially if there are pictures involved.

Anyways, to coin a phrase from another contributor, "that's my 2 cents worth".

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 Post subject: The Timing Chain
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 9:44 pm 
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What can I say about the timing chain that hasn't already been said? Maybe I can say it in a different way that somebody might appreciate and understand. I know I wish someone had given me clear instruction to understand that one apparatus, the timing chain tensioner adjuster. I probably would have ended up with a rebuild on my hands just the same, since my engine was so badly rusted. Oh well, the current situation has given me pause to thoroughly cover this topic, the parts beneath the engine's front cover.

Following are clear photos of the parts mounted on the front of the engine block, beneath the cover. Missing from this post however, are photos of the oil pump and it's meshing with the pinion gear. I'll cover that later. Only the first photo has the timing chain stretched as I held up the camshaft sprocket. In the other photos you should note the slacked position.

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Here's what's under that front cover/The front cover alongside the front of the engine block

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Oil jet, looks like a bolt, has two tiny holes in the collar/The pinion gear, crankshaft timing gear, and tensioner. Also note the two dowels that locate the front cover.

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The adjuster in a locked position/The chain guide on the right

The oil jet, the tensioner, timing chain, and the chain guide were taken from Tazman's engine because of their better condition.

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Last edited by FullaLuv on Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:37 pm 
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That is cool that the machine shop is keeping an eye on you via this site. If you do something wrong, they will catch it. :wink:

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 Post subject: Machine shop
PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:59 am 
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Yes the machine shop has taken me under it's wing, and they are watching my moves. They want this to be a success too. The receptionist, Kathy, is a sweet lady who is as knowledgeable as can be, and won't tolerate any corner cutting. It all has to be done right. They could have assembled the engine, but I want to do it myself.

This morning I talked to Larry and he will be taking me in to the machine shop to drop off the front cover. I want the top shaved off .012". It should be flush with the top of the engine block then. I will probably pick it up then some time next week.

I won't be making this inspection appointment on the 28th, so it's time to make a new appointment. I don't want to rush the break-in this time around.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 4:04 pm 
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you know john, with all this pictures of the insides of the engine, im alot more confident in tearing mine down now. seeing how simple the timing set is, and how simple the bottom ends are, i feel that i can have my engine reassembled to looks just as good!

also, on the front cover on you engine, did you have your block shaved? i could see then how you woulds get a 12thou step on the two parts. you might get a little more compression from that.

anyways, once again, great work!

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 Post subject: What I live for
PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 6:46 pm 
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Thanks Farmer Joe, it's my great pleasure to benefit someone from the writing and photography I do here. I don't suppose I would do the work it takes to put it all in clear order if it wasn't for the likes of DBest, 4x4luver, 79LUV'r, mytmouz and Rondog. Then there's all the others out there.

I just returned from the machine shop, where I have left the front cover to be milled .013". I checked it with a straightedge and I decided that it needed the extra thousandth. I asked the shop how much they removed from the block, and they said about 5 or 6 thousandths. That might have made the step more prominent, and necessary to have the front cover brought down. If the block hadn't been machined, the step would have been less noticeable, and maybe it would cause trouble. I suggest that all of you check your engines when you have the head off to see if these two surfaces are even, and then make any corrections if they're more than one or two thousandths of an inch off. If left uncorrected, this could cause all sorts of problems with your engine head.

Besides the seal at the head, the front cover is an intrinsic part of the G180. It not only covers the timing components, it also holds the oil pump, the oil filter, the water pump, the front oil seal, the distributor, and the timing index marks.

I also left another front cover to be cleaned. I will have an extra front cover. It will be ready to use, with a front seal installed and the gaskets ready, as well as a water pump and distributor.

The cylinders were also bored out to .030", so that'll be nice too. The crankshaft was reground, and the block was line bored, so it should be sweet and smooth!!!! I really am so excited.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 7:23 pm 
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I just watched your videos. That's quite the little videographer you got there John. Maybe we'll see his work on ABC wold news or something someday. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2007 2:44 am 
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Well, I had been avoiding these threads because of the huge size they had grown to. Tonight I finally had the time to read all 20-something pages of the old thread and then this one.

So now I'm all up to speed. Quick, someone quiz me before I forget. :)


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