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 Post subject: i got nuthing
PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:59 pm 
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Location: Buckeye Arizona
well i went and got new battery cables
i ran the postive to the starter and what ever was hooked up the the old one i hooked it up to the new one
I ran the Neg down to block
BUT i could not hook it up to where the old one was
because the bolt was too big for the new cable
SO i hooked it up else where but still on the block
and it had a fresh battery
so i go to see if it will start and get nothing
could it be a bad ignition switch
i mean i can turn it with any key ,knife, screw driver ect
any help would be awsome

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 6:55 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: Irvine, KY
That is where I would check first. Plus, double check to make sure you connected all the wires back like they were.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 7:03 pm 
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
You can cross a screwdriver blade on the battery lead of the starter solenoid to the start wire terminal. That will tell you if the starter is capable of working. Make sure that the ignition is OFF when you do this. No power to the ignition and fuel pump.
If you cant get the starter to work this way, it means that you have a faulty positive cable connection or a negative cable connection.
If you can, get ahold of a multimeter. With a multimeter you can test and see if you're getting power to the solenoid from the ignition switch.

Did you check all the fuse connections at the fuse block? And you should have 2 wires that tie directly to the positive battery post terminal.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 7:43 pm 
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two wires at the positive??
i got my battery wire and sum other wire that goes to sumthing on the RH fender

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 11:52 pm 
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With a stock wiring configuration, there's a short, single wire that goes to a small plastic connector from the battery. From the plastic connector splits off into 2 wires (fuse links) on to another plastic connector. From there, 1 wire will go to the fuse block and charging system and the 2nd wire goes to the ignition switch.
If you still have the original wiring configuration, that's great! If the wiring has been reworked over the years, you'll need to verify that you eventually have 2 wires getting power to the electrical circuit.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 9:21 pm 
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Location: Buckeye Arizona
okay is there two differnt type of fuse boxes
cause i got those glass type fuses and theres like 6 or them and thats on the drivers side up by the fire wall

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 9:36 pm 
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Location: Raeford, NC
The only fuse box is on the driver side fender.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 9:50 pm 
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Regardless of the type of fuse box, all LUVs have the same basic wiring. Go to the positive battery terminal and trace the single wire for the harness. The single wire should split off into 2 separate wires that go into the wire bundle. One of those wires goes to the fuse block and the other goes to the ignition switch.
If your headlights can come on, the fuse block wire is ok so dont worry about that. The other wire will go to the ignition switch. Both of these wires need to be tied to the positive post of the battery.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:26 pm 
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well then with the knowledge i have just gained
on monday if i get free time i will investigate my wiring
would do it right now but it's to cold.....

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