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 Post subject: Rear pinion seal leak
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:25 pm 
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Location: Whittier, (So). Cal.
Ok. I've never done this before. Do I need to replace the crush bushing also?
I just have a leaking seal and the book is talking about pre load and stuff as if I was rebuilding the whole damn thing.
Can anyone give me a quick run through on what I need to do for this repair?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:52 pm
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Location: McChord AFB WA by way of Spokane WA
nah you should just be able to run the bolt off replace the seal and then retorque it. Though it get everything perfect youll need to take the third member out and use a pull scale on the yoke to make shure you have proper pinion preload.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:32 pm 
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The correct way is to always replace the crush sleeve. You will NEVER get the gear pattern correct again without it. Yes, you can just replace the seal and reinstall the nut, but it is not the correct way, but it may last a while like that.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:32 pm 
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So if I figure out what its torqued at now when I take it apart, I could just retorque it to that and it should all be fine?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:01 am 
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Location: McChord AFB WA by way of Spokane WA
huh well ill look up the proper procedure in my shop manual tonight...
I just kinda figured youd be good becouse my pinion nut has backed out so i have to retorque it every now and then. The rear isnt making too much noise so i figured it would work...

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 4:30 pm 
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Well i looked up the procedure for a differential rebuild. There is no mention of a crush sleave in this diferential. It says to torque the nut initially at 85lb ft (1 1/4" socket) then wrap string around the input shaft so you can hook that to a pull scale to measure the resistance. For new bearings its suposed to be 15in lb and for used its half that. When my pinion nut came loose i just ran it down to 85lb ft and called it good.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:29 pm 
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Thanks for your help.
I have a torque wrench that will tell me the torque it takes to remove it. I think I'll replace the seal and crush sleeve and torque it back to what it was at. I don't have a pull scale, so this will have to work. Thank's again for the help.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 5:03 am 
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If it is set on there it may take more torque to break it free than it was orignally torqued down to. Paint a line across the nut and end of the pinion, then when you tighten it down again make the lines match. It should be around 85 lbs.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 7:49 pm 
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Excellent idea 800xl! Thank you! I had to work today (Time and a half, :wink: I'll take it), So I will be tackling it on Sunday. 8)

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