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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 6:34 pm 
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What should I clean the head and valves with?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:13 pm 
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A machine shop

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:22 am 
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I would but this is a father/son project. That would defeat the purpose of doing it ourselves.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:44 am 
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You need to take it to a machine shop.Unless you have a valve grinder,a seat grinder,and a head mill.Also they would probably sleeve or replace the valve guides.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:45 am 
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To do it properly, they should be hot-tanked. Nothing else will remove the baked on carbon.
I would be surprised if you don't need to have the head surfaced as well.
Both of these items are typically machine shop.

I'm not sure why that defeats the father-son project?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 1:04 pm 
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Ben wrote:
To do it properly, they should be hot-tanked. Nothing else will remove the baked on carbon.
I would be surprised if you don't need to have the head surfaced as well.
Both of these items are typically machine shop.

I'm not sure why that defeats the father-son project?


All the extra time spent together to redo it...

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 3:41 pm 
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Ok

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 4:05 pm 
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So, i put the new head gasket on and everything is back together.......now I dont have any spark at all. Points are gapped, nothing has changed. Coil is good had it checked. Shows I have power to the distributor. HELP!!!!! Where do I need to start? Fuse, relay, what could it be??????

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 5:12 pm 
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Have you actually checked the plugs for spark? Have you checked the compression since you got it back together?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 5:51 pm 
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So we don't get screwed up again, is it spark or compression that is not there

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:13 pm 
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To clarify, I have compression at all cylinders, thanks to a freshly installed new head gasket. I don't have spark at the plugs. Yes, I grounded it to the block and turned the engine over, but no spark. I tested the coil per multimeter and the primary and secondary resistance is within spec. I pulled the rotor and I dont have any spark at the points. They are gapped correctly and I have replaced them with new. What is the simple thing that I am overlooking?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:28 pm 
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Distributor cap?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:27 pm 
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Condensor? What about the wire hooked up to the side of the distributor that leads to the coil? You should have 4 spark plug wires and one to the coil coming out the cap, and one wire on the side that leads into the wiring harness. The condensor also wires up there.

There are two sources of power to the coil, one when cranking that feeds 12 volts, and then one from the ballast resistor that feeds it less once the alternator is spinning. Check voltage at the + side of the coil while cranking, and with just the key on.

If you don't see voltage while cranking you can try, very temporarily, running a wire from the battery + side to the coil + side. Then crank it up. Once running pull that wire and see if it stays running. If it does you should check that the resistor bypass relay is hooked up and working. (under the metal cover by the coil) Do not leave the coil wired straight to the battery, it will warm up and can fail, sometimes by exploding a little.

Basically I'd say you just have a wiring problem. Something got disconnected doing the head work and is hiding from you now. It might be a failed relay, but that would be a big coincidence.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:17 pm 
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I appreciate the input. I don't think I have a condensor. What about the voltage regulator? I will try your suggestions in the morning. The ballast resistor also has a wire from the wiring harness connected to it. The other one runs to the positive side of the coil.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:35 pm 
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If you have points and no condensor, that is your problem...

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:41 pm 
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Like mytmouz said, if you have points you have to have a condenser. Do you have a manual for this truck, if so you need to read it. It's pretty simple, if you had spark then replaced the points then your problem is with what you replaced. I do not gap points, I use a dwell meter that way I know it's working correct. If the dwell is correct then I would jump power to the ballast resistor and make cure there is voltage at the coil.

Why would you even mention the voltage regulator at this point?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:59 am 
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Why was it running before the head work? It didnt have a condenser then either.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 9:16 am 
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There has to be a condenser

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:05 pm 
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I've seen them run without a condenser, but the points will burn out pretty quickly. You really do need one.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:10 pm 
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Sounds good. I don't know why there wasn't one.

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