LUVTruck.com

On the diagram, is #17 a safety switch that allows the ignition to turn over in neutral? Mine is completely gone and there is just a hole. I probably need to fix that, huh?

#17 is the Federal-spec 3rd/4th switch, it's hooked to the coasting richer circuit in the carb, is part of the emissions, turn on in 3rd or 4th gear only. If your tranny has a second switch in the shifter cover just above the backup light switch (#28 in the picture) it's a Cali-spec emission switch for the coasting richer circuit, it turns off in neutral, on in any gear. The safety switch is on the clutch pedal.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

No mine doesn't have the CA. emissions stuff. There is a threaded hole where the federal spec. 3/4 gear switch use to be. Should I plug that hole? Other than cleaning the bell housing, everything that came with the clutch kit is on the truck. I just have to order the reverse light switch and put everything back. I have a new torque wrench and a new gear/pilot bearing puller to add to my tool collection. On Wednesday I should have the LUV manual.
I wish there was a movie/tutorial specific to LUVs that I could have watched. Maybe next time I'll film it and post it.

Plug it.
If it seems to run funny when you suddenly let off the gas while in 3rd or 4th gear try jumpering the two wires together that go from the switch to the carb. If it now runs funny in 1st & 2nd but fine in 3rd & 4th you'll have to decide which condition is best. Either that or replace the switch.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

How hard should it be to get the tranny back onto the truck? I don't want to cram it on and screw up the splines on the shaft or the clutch, but holy cow! Any suggestions to make this easier?

You will need a 'line up shaft' to be able to properly center the clutch disc. Forcing is bad...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

I used the plastic one that came with the clutch kit, is there another one?

That should work fine. I usually get the shaft started in the pilot bushing/bearing then put the trans in gear then spin the output shaft until I feel the splines line up.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Yup, that worked! One final question, can I refill the gear oil by pouring it into the gear shift hole, or do I need to use the Hard-to-get-at filler hole? And how much do I use? Once again, you all have been a tremendous help!

You can fill it through the shifter hole but you still have to pull out the filler bolt on the side. Fill it until the fluid runs out of the filler hole.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Remove the filler plug, pour motor oil (not gear oil) through the shifter hole until it runs out fill hole. If you keep track of how much you pour in you will know how much it takes the next time you change. FSM says 1.35 quarts.
An excellent fill tool is a 1 gallon pump up garden sprayer, remove the spray end from the wand, pour in the proper amount of lube & pressurize, stick the wand end into the fill hole & lock the trigger, go do something else until the sprayer empties. Any excess will run out, top off as needed if you don't quite get it full. The thinner & warmer the lube the faster the process.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Should I use the same weight motor oil as I do in the engine? 10/30?

Yep.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Got everything put back together. Truck runs and drives again. It is difficult to get it into reverse. I put the stick shift back in the way it came out, got 1.35q of SAE 30 in the gear box. what should I be looking at?

Try clearing the gears first before going into reverse. Put it in second then reverse and see if it is easier to get in reverse.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

not so much...

You didn't mess with the transmission, right? Nothing internal, just the clutch kit?

What do you mean by "difficult to get it into reverse"? Does it grind, or is it just hard to get the stick into that position?

Did you replace the broken backup light switch?

Jack

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'83 Isuzu P'up Diesel LS - Original Owner
JoeIsuzu@IsuzuPup.com
IsuzuPup.com

Did you adjust the clutch cable correctly?

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

That's kinda where I was heading when I asked if it grinds...

Jack

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'83 Isuzu P'up Diesel LS - Original Owner
JoeIsuzu@IsuzuPup.com
IsuzuPup.com

I did replace the reverse light switch. I didn't do anything with the gear box (except take out the gear shift). I adjusted the clutch cable until it began to release about one inch from the floor. I am in no way sure that that is correct, but it feels right.
The gear doesn't grind, it is just severely difficult to get over into reverse. It takes a few attempts before it drops in. Also, the clutch safety is hesitant to disengage and allow me to start the engine.