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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:24 pm 
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Glad to hear that you are happy with the manifold! I am sure it isn't like throwing in a V8, but if it helps some, then that is great! I can't wait to see how mine will run after I get it installed.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:45 pm 
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rodeobob wrote:
1okey2go wrote:
but my clutch blew up on my first long drive after the install,
If youve got enough HP to do that how much more do you want???? lol.


You've seen the Luv clutches. A go-cart could smoke one. :)

Seriously though, I feel the manifold and carb were definitely worth doing.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 8:04 am 
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Must be something about americans and stick shifts.

Ive never had a drama, my clutch gets a hiding. But a nice hiding, only when the cook drives does it get fried upon, bloomin clutch riding bandit. And no shes not a yank, just female.

Everytime i am with her in her car i go crook. (manual camry wagon) She always chimes back with its only a clutch i will buy one, and im like, yeah and you will put it in too, i will be in the comfy chair watching TV and you out the corner of my eye. I did find a bill in the glove box for the clutch the previous owner put in it, she hushed up then it was over $1000. (it was a timing belt and rear main and all sorts of other stuff too but i didnt let on)


Bob.

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 10:46 pm 
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Just got my offy and headers in today, Can't wait to install it this weekend. (Thanks Mokadeth)

In previous posts on this thread, there has been talk of a guide on how to install the intake. I'm sure, even being a carnoob, I could figure it out put plugging what I don't want, and hooking up the stuff that I do want in the same spots on the new intake. However, if a guide is already written, that would be very helpful.

Has a guide been written? if so, could you post a link to it?

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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 2:18 am 
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Blame me. :oops:

I was going to, then my damn Blazer got stolen while I had my truck apart and I had to rush to get the intake back on and get it on the road. Sorry everyone! :(

If you are going to use the stock smog stuff, then basically you can just put the two intakes side-by-side and swap everything over. If not, do the same thing, except just tap and plug the egr hole underneath, and whatever else you don't need. Most everything you will need comes with the Offy, and any plugs or fittings you may need you can get at your local auto parts store and/or hardware store.

Take a few pics of the stock intake before you do, and make sure you tag all of your connections to your old stock intake before you remove it so everything gets hooked back up right. It's a pretty basic conversion, but it sure makes a big difference in performance.

Now you need to get a cam done from Delta Cams....lol

Holla if you get stuck and I'll try to help you out. Have fun and good luck!


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 12:20 pm 
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Glad to hear I can swap smog stuff, but can I still use the stock carb?
In Cali post 75 we can only use stock carbs, in order to pass emissions.

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 12:41 am 
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Thanks for the tips Taz. I would think you could make the stock carb work with the right adaptor? Someone here must have done this before? If there isn't an adaptor then one probably could be custom made? You could always just get the Weber and just switch it back to the stock carb for inspection then switch it back after inspection. :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 1:00 am 
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To Answer dano7tTruck's question if a Weber will pass Smog for CA trucks,
I found this post:
http://forums.luvtruck.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14824&hilit=weber+smog

tumwatertaz wrote:
You can get an adapter that will allow you to put the stock
air cleaner on a weber installed in a luv so it will pass smog.
And a weber will always work better than even a new hitachi will. There really is
no comparison.

And you should never drive any gas or diesel powered vehicle in the cold without
warming it up first. That's just lke running it without any oil if you don't, since
the colder it is, the longer it takes the oil to circulate and start to protect all
the moving parts.

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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 12:54 am 
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tumwatertaz wrote:
Now you need to get a cam done from Delta Cams....lol

Wait, how much does one of them cost?



And Moka, when my truck gets mostly back together I'll PM you with the scrilla. Because I am, definately, buying one.


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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 10:07 pm 
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PM sent with info.

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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 10:14 pm 
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I've talked with you before about the intakes Moka... I actually was referring to the cams.


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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 2:37 am 
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Sorry if I misunderstood what you meant. I guess I just looked at it quick. :oops:

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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 1:17 pm 
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I get mine reasonably cheap because I only live 30 miles from their shop, but generally speaking you can send them any old worn out G180 cam, talk to them about specifically what you want the cam to do for you, and they will custom re-do it to work best just for your needs. I personally wanted a little more hp but was more concerned with increasing my low-end torque a bit. But IMHO they are probably the best in the business at coming up with the perfect grind for anyone.

Then it usually takes them a few days to get it done and ship it back to you. Shipping and all - your looking at around $75.00 - but it is a very good investment, believe me.

They are located in Tacoma, WA and here's their website that has all their info including their toll-free phone #:

http://www.deltacam.com/


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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 1:46 pm 
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How much did it help?


Would I need new rockers, rods, springs, or valves?


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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 7:37 pm 
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Zane wrote:
To Answer dano7tTruck's question if a Weber will pass Smog for CA trucks,
I found this post:
http://forums.luvtruck.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14824&hilit=weber+smog

tumwatertaz wrote:
You can get an adapter that will allow you to put the stock
air cleaner on a weber installed in a luv so it will pass smog.
And a weber will always work better than even a new hitachi will. There really is
no comparison.

And you should never drive any gas or diesel powered vehicle in the cold without
warming it up first. That's just lke running it without any oil if you don't, since
the colder it is, the longer it takes the oil to circulate and start to protect all
the moving parts.

Taz, Did you buy that air cleaner adapter for your weber, and if so how much does that Adapter cost?


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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:35 pm 
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Quote:
Taz, Did you buy that air cleaner adapter for your weber, and if so how much does that Adapter cost?


Actually I did...but not for smog because where I live we don't have to get certified. I use mine for when I'm running around in the summer with my other hood on that has a custom filtered scoop built into it. I have ducting from my hood scoop that connects to it.

I got mine on ebay last year for around $10.00. It's just a short aluminum cover that bolts onto the top of a weber and has a big round short tube-like opening in the top for the stock air cleaner to connect to.
Quote:
How much did it help?
Would I need new rockers, rods, springs, or valves?


It helped a lot, and as long as you don't go too crazy and order some humungously wild big lumpy cam, you can use all of your old stuff. The main concern would be getting more torque - especially in the low-end rpm's because most G series engines don't really have a lot of testicular fortitude untill around 3000 rpm's and start loosing it around 4500, which you can resolve by losing the old points type distributor. They tend to fade at rpm's higher than 4500-5000.


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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 7:02 am 
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tumwatertaz wrote:
I got mine on ebay last year for around $10.00. It's just a short aluminum cover that bolts onto the top of a weber and has a big round short tube-like opening in the top for the stock air cleaner to connect to.
Quote:

Can you put up a link for me for the part???
Ive got a weber here im thinking of putting on the 2.3L manifold on the 2.6L motor. Keemping the stock air cleaner would be trick.

tumwatertaz wrote:
most G series engines don't really have a lot of testicular fortitude untill around 3000 rpm's and start loosing it around 4500, .


Hence the 2.6L. its got the balls under 4500rpm.

Bob.

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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2008 2:54 am 
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tumwatertaz wrote:
Quote:
How much did it help?
Would I need new rockers, rods, springs, or valves?


It helped a lot, and as long as you don't go too crazy and order some humungously wild big lumpy cam, you can use all of your old stuff. The main concern would be getting more torque - especially in the low-end rpm's because most G series engines don't really have a lot of testicular fortitude untill around 3000 rpm's and start loosing it around 4500, which you can resolve by losing the old points type distributor. They tend to fade at rpm's higher than 4500-5000.

So, you just told them you wanted more low-end torque?



I have a feeling when I start my truck back up it'll be like driving a brand new truck... Going from barely running on three cylinders to an offy, weber, new cam, over-bore, new dizzy, flowmaster, etc.


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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2008 4:17 am 
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Yeah basically, but I showed them the spec's on my engine and let them take a look at it and what all I had done to it before they made mine. I'm currently running an Impulse 1.9 G200Z with factory taller flat-top pistons, stiffer valve springs, my new cam, a 50 amp alternator, an electronic distributor, a high output coil, a pacesetter header with 2 1/2 inch exhaust, an offy intake with a weber 38/38 carb, and a weiand air filter. It was a little sluggish in the lower rpm's and tended to lose a bit of muscle when it got past about 5000 rpm's. So they got together and did that voodoo that they do so well, and now it has more torque and has a lot more muscle in the lower and top range rpm's.

But if you are working with a stock G180 with stock pistons, you have a bit more room to work with when it comes to designing the right cam for you, because you don't have to worry so much about valve-to-piston clearances. My cam does cause my engine to have a bit of a rough idle, but it gave it a bit more testicular fortitude, and so far my gas mileage doesn't appear to be affected much. So honestly, the best suggestion I can make is to consult with them about what you want to do, and what you will need to do to make it all work for you to be satisfied. They really know their stuff, and IMHO you can't place your trust in better skilled or more capable hands.

But you are right...it is a real pleasant surprise when you get it all done and then you fire it up for the first time and take it around the block. They'll probably have to grab a wrecking bar to pry that smile off of your face...lol

I recently had a local guy stop by with a pretty beat up lookin' totally stock, (with all of the smog stuff still connected) '77 longbed Luv, and I took it for a drive. The difference between it and my '78 shortbed stepside with my built-up Impulse 1.9 G200Z engine, newer 5 speed, and newer heavier rear-end was like the difference between dial up and high speed cable internet access...lol

IMHO that's what is so great about these little trucks - there really isn't much of a limit of what you can do to (or with) them. Everytime I do something new to my truck or add something else to it, my wife always asks me why. I always ask her : "Why not?"...lol


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 12:32 am 
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I know I kinda asked this question before... But, in Fulla's thread, when he got a new cam it said to always get new lifters when you get a new cam. Would this be needed if I had my cam redone by Delta? If so, how much would they be and where should I get them?


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