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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 4:45 am 
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I'm going to the car auction this weekend to get my daughter something to drive...but I should be installing it early next week. Please stay tuned.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 10:22 pm 
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I still have plenty of intakes. If anyone is ready let me know and I will PM you with the details. I hope there will remain enough interest to do more runs in the future to keep these manifolds from becoming obsolete. As it is now, the interest is not anywhere near what it was in the beginning and many people who said they would take one either don't have their truck anymore or don't have the 1.8 motor in the trucks they have. There were only a couple who I never heard from. There were a few of you who have contacted me and are interested when they get the funds together, which is understandable and no problem, but I still will have plenty. We will have to see how it goes over the Summer. If they sell well enough and there is still some demand I will consider another run in the future. Thanks again to everyone for your patience in waiting for these and thanks to everyone who bought one. I see there are a couple of the Dual Port models on eBay right now. I know a couple people from Australia were interested in those, but I think the ones on eBay are for the older 1.8 motor? They don't look like any of the pictures in the info sheets and pictures of the manifolds that are posted here and the seller says they are for the early LUV motor.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:39 pm 
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HOW MUCH HP DO U THINK THAT IT WOULD ADD???


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 2:20 am 
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I believe Taz mentioned in a past post about an old magazine article that claimed the Offy upgrade with the Weber carb would add 25 hp. I can't confirm that, but maybe someone here can? I am sure with this and headers and electronic ignition it would probably add a noticeable amount of hp without sacrificing much fuel efficiency. If you look back through this thread you will find some discussion on this question. I know someone else asked the same thing in the past.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:45 am 
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in an old article I have from trucking said that by adding the offy, weber 32/36 and header it added 25 hp to the 76/80 luv motor... if you want to read it here you go
http://www.chevyluv.zoomshare.com/1.shtml/extra%20power

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:34 am 
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Are any of the offy intakes smog legal for us guys in Cali with 76+ LUVS?
Thanx
Dano

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 1:36 am 
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I can't say for sure since I don't have to worry about it here in PA where I am located. I am sure someone here can answer that. My guess is that there must be a way to make it work with the smog stuff, but I can't say for sure. Do you know the answer to this Taz or anyone else? Thanks for that link ctmandu! I knew I saw that magazine article somewhere. Must be I clicked on your website link somewhere in the past. 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:49 am 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer

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If i rememebr right these manifold are non smog ones.


When they test for smog do they just look or do they put the car on the exhaust gas analyser????


If thy just look, im sure you could dummy up all the crap so it looks right.


The fact that its got the wrong carby on it is what will trip you up.


Bob.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 4:38 pm 
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The true scoop from California. Sad but true. Live in a non-smog county and get your out of state Dad to give you a Luvtruck looks like it might work. Go read http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm#BM2535
------
Smog Information

Currently, smog inspections are required for all vehicles except diesel powered vehicles, electric, natural gas powered vehicles over 14,000 lbs, hybrids, motorcycles, trailers, or vehicles 1975 and older.

Vehicles registered in areas subject to the biennial smog certification program are required to submit evidence of a smog certification every other renewal period. Owners of vehicles six or less model years old will pay an annual smog abatement fee for the first six registration years instead of being required to provide a biennial smog certification. The registration renewal notice mailed to you by the department will indicate if a smog certification is required. If a smog certification is required and you have not had a smog inspection, you may still pay your registration fees to avoid any late fees. However, you will not receive your new registration or year sticker until the smog information has been received by DMV.

NOTE: Upon initial registration, nonresident and specially constructed vehicles 1976 and newer require smog certification. The six or less model years old rule does not apply to these vehicles.

When you transfer a vehicle that is four or less model years old a smog certification is not required. A smog transfer fee will be collected from the new owner. When a vehicle is more than four model years old, a seller must provide evidence of a current smog certification except when one of the following occurs:

* The transfer occurs between a spouse, sibling, child, parent, grandparent, or grandchild.
* A biennial smog certification was submitted to DMV within 90 days prior to the vehicle transfer date (a vehicle inspection report may be required for proof of certification).

Smog certifications are good for 90 days from the date of issuance.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:55 pm 
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Thanks for the information, hope this answers the questions.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 10:37 pm 
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tumwatertaz wrote:
Ok I'm typing this with one hand, so please excuse the mess.

The hole on the bottom with the bolt holes on either side and the long indented groove is for the egr to bolt on to. It can be tapped and plugged for those that aren't using their smog stuff. The other two bolt holes are for linkage and there also is a threaded hole for the coolant temperature sensor.

The "t" shaped pipe fitting is for coolant lines to connect to. The other fittings you need for the vacuum booster to your brakes, and the other vacuum fittings you will need have to be used from your old stock POS Isuzu manifold. It's all pretty basic stuff. Once you remove your old manifold, just put the two beside each other and swap everything over.

BTW...Once you put the two manifolds side by side, you will notice the difference in the quality of the casting/machine work immediately. The stock POS Isuzu is a cheap, machine made and mass-produced piece of junk. The Offy is expertly engineered and designed, plus it's individually hand-cast and hand-machined from a higher grade metal.

Some would say that paying for a new manifold when you already have one is kind of silly...but IMHO it all boils down to how well you want your truck to run. With the price of gas being what it is and the anticipated increases I'm sure we will all be facing in the near future, every little bit of improved operating efficiency you can squeeze out of your old truck has to be viewed as a wise investment.

I personally had the opportunity to drive my old Luv that was completely stock with all of the smog stuff intact right after I did all of the mods that were possible to my old G180 engine in my shortbed stepside truck - and there was no comparison in hp/torque at all. Plus my truck got way better mileage - which immediately convinced the new owner of my old truck to get to work modding his.

With every mod you do - you pick up a few more hp, a little more torque, a little better gas mileage - and it all adds up.

And on that happy note, I'm going to get off of my soapbox, STFU, quit boring you guys, and go refill my Jack-n-Ginger...lol

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 1:21 am 
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OK, I have had my truck for years. It sat and rusted out but it has a balanced and blueprinted but otherwise stock isuzu 4 cyl engine. It is a 4 X 4 and it has power steering (fabricated), AC, a body lift kit, and the bed is modified so that it dumps. The problem is it won't idle because of the carb. If I could get someone to give me more specifics on these parts below, and help me to find some body parts, I have been told I should never ever sell my truck because its "cute." But nobody wants to buy no rusty truck. I need help or it will probably end up crushed. Please give me more info:

A luv with a 5speed, newer rear-end, delta cam, electronic ignition, impulse G200, weber carb, offy intake, and a pacesetter header is a little rip-snortin' truck that is fun as all hell to drive.

I could post some pictures but you would not believe how rusty it is. My truck is 4 x 4 with a 4 speed. What kind of mileage difference does a 5 spd make?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 9:03 pm 
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dano7tTruck wrote:
Are any of the offy intakes smog legal for us guys in Cali with 76+ LUVS?
Thanx
Dano

I haven't pulled out my stock intake yet. But I I think that if it has all the same ports as the stock intake, it will pass.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 7:49 pm 
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Sorry for the delay in responding, but personal matters that had to be taken care of have kept me a little busy. These manifolds are smog certifiable if you swap everything over...so you folks that livein California shouldn't have any problems. The only major issue is the crossover pipe that runs from the exhaust to the intake isn't plumbed in, and you will have to get a brass fitting for the elbow on the rear of the intake that goes to the coolant hose. The stock intake is a pressed in fitting and the offy is already threaded for it's replacement that can be purchased at any hardware store in the plumbing supplies.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:47 am 
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I have had a couple questions recently on whether the manifolds will work with a 2.3 motor. Does anyone have any knowledge on this or have made one work with a 2.3? I know this has been asked in the past, but I don't remember anyone having much info on it.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 5:34 am 
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I thought that was covered a few pages back.


Theres no reason that it wont work on a 4Z motor. Same deal putting a 4Z manifold on a G-series motor and that gets done all the time. There is a slight missalignment of the water passage bleow the thermostat housing.

On the 2.3L and 2.6L motor theres also the issue of the hole for the fuel pump push rod and the oil drain back hole below it. The first is easy fixed with a tap and a bolt and the latter can be sealed up with some 2 part meatlic putty or similar.

Having said that, id be having a real good look over the manifold and head and trial fitting it before i put some goo on the gaskets.


Bob.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 7:51 pm 
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like he said... they work one both motors, same as my single and duel side draft setup

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:50 pm 
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Thanks again for the info. I passed it along and will try to remember that this question was answered if it comes up again in the future.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:44 pm 
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Location: Silicon Valley, CA
I bought one a while back and finally got it on my truck. I've gotta say, I'm happy with it.

The holes are an interesting mix of metric and english. It took me a while to figure out how to plug all the holes I don't need. (I'm running without the smog attachments.) It turns out most of the stuff is some form of NPT pipe thread, or is close enough to it that I was able to use pipe plugs.

With Mokadeth's manifold and a Weber 32/36, the truck is noticeably faster. Not fast, but faster. It went from being painfully slow to just slow.

I wanted to get some quantitative numbers for acceleration and mileage, but my clutch blew up on my first long drive after the install, so my truck's in the garage till I get the time to fix it.

For me, it was definitely worth it.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:11 am 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer

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1okey2go wrote:
but my clutch blew up on my first long drive after the install,



If youve got enough HP to do that how much more do you want???? lol.

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