LUVTruck.com

I thought it meant what cleaver thought also!!

_________________
Click on C.M. logo to go to my webpage


RIP R.J.B.

I had to look it up to see what cleaver thought it meant. All is well.

_________________
1980 4x4

Any progress?

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Nope, rained here all weekend, so I didn't go up to his place. Stayed here and wired my hobby shop and plumbed the air line. Maybe next weekend...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

I just plumbed my air compressor and installed a Devilbiss Air dryer. Been using it all week and draining it every day. It's amazing how much water it removes. We are Priming my sons LUV tomorrow and hopefully painting it Wednesday or Thursday.

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Did I mention I hate stockers... Anyways, after working on my v8 LUV ,and v8 s10 Blazer, I foolishly made the suggestion we work on the stocker. Rough idle, would die after a short time. We traced wires and troubleshot it most of the day. If it wasn't going to his son, I wanted to use it for a wienie roast... Stock fuel pump was bad, would quit after a few seconds run time. (did this when it was just the pump wired to a battery). We replaced it with a MR. Gasket cheapy. fuel pressure is at a tad under 3 psi. Still would die after running a short time. Dredged up from memory the many threads I have read on here, plus used my trusty series 9 manual. CHecked the solenoids around the carb, they were OK. Moved on to the distibutor, reset the points gap, and set the dwell, BIG gains there, but still sputtering out after a few minutes. I kept saying the fuel pump was dropping out due to the charging system, (gen light was on). Broke out the Fluke and the test light. SUre nough, no spark. Swapped out the voltage regulator with 2 that I had acquired once, still no go. Replaced the alternator with a used one from another guys 4x4 truck. Nope.

Here is the part I need some input on. Found a bad connection at a wire. got the charging system to somewhat work. The voltage regulator clicks, when it does the gen light flashes on and off, so does the test light on the fuel pump wire from the relay. Any ideas? DOn't want to throw parts at it. Looked at the manual, but the voltage regulator that is on it now, (only one that works other 2 don't do squat), isn't made like the one in the manual, so the voltage output adjustment is unknown. You can run the rpms up, and the clicking goes away, and the gen light goes out. SO I suspect voltage. At idle the system is putting out 13.26 volts...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

I understand not wanting to just throw parts at it. If it was my truck it would be my only ride so I would. I would buy a new alternator and a new regulator about 30 dollars each at Napa and see what happens if they dont help you can always take them back. Just an idea, also what is voltage of the battery? I was having problems and put in a new battery and it was fine. Six months later the battery in the wifes car went out. Put the old luv battery in her car and it worked fine. I think the standing voltage of the old luv batt was 12.4 the standing voltage in the new batt I have now two years later is around 12.75-12.78. By standing voltage I mean after it sits overnight or a day or two.

_________________
1980 4x4

my truck just started doing this today. i know my voltage reg. is bad cause its fried inside. going to try installing the internally regulated alt off the donor car tomoorow and see if that helps.

_________________
luv less for the time being

Battery was in range, actually placed it on a charger in the early morning hours so it would be at full voltage when we got to it. The parts are no problem to acquire, (buddy's wife works at O'Wrongley's), I just find it difficult to believe that 3 voltage regs and 2 50 amp alt are all bad. (The truck we are working on, and the 4x4 we borrowed the alt. from are both AC equipped and working). One thing to think of I forgot to throw out there is, with the Gen light on constantly, the old magnetized field test with a screw driver works. But after getting the connector issue corrected and the Gen light to go off, neither alt. show a magnetized field. I did the diode test called for in the service manual on both, they show good. And the open field coil test shows good as well. THe original alt. was tested at 2 different alt. remans when we first started messing with it, and it showed to be good at both. Ran out of both time and energy to fool with it, (batteries were old, kept powering off the Fluke) to do the 2500 rpm voltage test, which is next. I am mostly trying to get some ideas of other things to check when we finally get back to it. (The 4x4 owner has another 4x4 that has been sitting due to the clicking regulator for 4 years now, 2 new voltage regulators, another alternator, a new set of relays on the fender and a new keyswitch hasn't fixed it,) Thanks for the suggestions so far...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

last night while driving my truck my lights and everything started to get dim, then out of nowhere, they got bright, everything started to respond like it should... but my gen light was about 50% lit, as to where previously it was only about 5-10% lit up. everythign still worked alright, but if i let it idle now, the headlights dim, the dash lights, the heater blower motor, all act slow and laggy at idle but fine at anything above 2k rpm.

think it might be the the fuse box connections? its got a new alternator, and i continued to drive the car several hours after it started acting this way, with no forseen consequenses.(i had to, its my daily driver for my paper route)

_________________
1980 Chevy Luv 4x4 mikado factory Black.

1.8L 4spd

helmet648 Yes check the fuse box connections and stuff first. But it could be the regulator. Was the reg. replaced with the alt.?

_________________
OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

i did not replace it when i did the altenator. guess i should have. i just took it down to my local parts store to do a charging test and it was charging at idle, at over 16v. looked at my altenator, and the ground wire had broken off. touched it to where it should have been ,it dropped to 14.5ish. now i just need to get that hooked back up, and eventually get a new voltage regulator for Duces and Chuckles.

_________________
1980 Chevy Luv 4x4 mikado factory Black.

1.8L 4spd

Guys this might sound stupid but what about the fusible link between the ground on the battery to the chassis? It would cause the vehicle to not run right and would cause the generator light to come on in some cases.It is a cheap fix and easy to get at!

Is'nt there a filter in the bed drivers side that is sapposed to vent the gas fumes? Could be clogged.

Thanks guys, first, gen light goes on and off, so I would think the link is good, otherwise it will not go off, and it seems to be electricval in nature. THe vents and filters seem to be functional...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

The fuel pump cuts off every time the gen light comes on. Some basics. My 77. On the 6 wire plug from the VR white red = W = fuel pump and charge light, white = W = ignition, white blue = B = battery, black = E = earth, British for ground, white black = F = field, the stem of the Tee connector to the alternator, and white green = N = cross bar of Tee - feeds back to the VR. The white/red wire feeds the coil of a relay over on the right side. When the contacts are closed power flows to the fuel pump.

You need a working alternator and voltage regulator for the fuel pump to work.

What have you done with the fuse box? Just cleaning the terminals isn't even a good start. The problem is the riveted connections between the fuse holders and the terminals. I don't know how well the lemon juice thing works. I do know I soldered mine together years ago and haven't any problems with it since.

OK, it was voltage. Got back on it today and did the rpm test. Voltage was all over the place. After extensive cursing, determined the issue was the harness side of the 6 pin connector mentioned above, the one the voltage regulator plugs into. After jumping around the connector, voltage regulator was set at the correct range, and everything is fine. As bad as I hated to, we removed the offending plug. (I REALLY hate to cut wiring harnesses). As noted above, the 4x4 was experiencing the same thing. Same result, so it is good to go now as well.

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!