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yeah, like egg said.

i'm looking at the book, and from what i see, the first "ring" that is behind the sprocket should have a line or mark that indicates alignment. when at TDC, it should be pointing straight up and in line with the notch on the cam "carrier"

as far as the tensioner is concerned, its only a two position tensioner, meaning if the nylon "screw" is popped up, it's not set. you should push it down and counter clockwise to lock it. it only turns 90* so dont force it, or you could break it.

Since you say the engine is running, it makes me think that something ELSE could be the culprit.

you say you followed the tutorial. did you wire the chain to the sprocket? if you did, then the bottom chain will not have been affected unless you accidentally tapped the starter or something.

You also said its sounds different. Mine did too, but thats because i had a few vacuum lines to replace and i had to change out the contact points.

But anywho...

This is what the book says word for word:
1.) Check that the distributor point gap is set correctly before adjusting ignition timing
2.) Check that engine is idling at a smooth rate
3.) Check that contact breaker is working properly

Adjustment:
1.) Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature of 82*c (180*F)
2.) Connect timing light lead to either number 1 or number 4 cylinder
3.) ignition timing can be adjusted by loosening distributor clamping bolt and turning distributor. With timing light aimed toward timing mark. For best results, timing should be set at 6 degrees BTDC @ 900 RPM (All except Federal M/T) Or 800RPM (Federal M/T) With vacuum advance line plugged.

End


Just so you know,(and in case you cant see it for the grease), looking at the lines ON TOP of the timing stub, 6 degrees is just AFT of the middle line.

ADDITIONALLY,

Check your valves to make sure they are all within spec.
do this with the engine COLD.

taking the spark plugs out will make this a little easier, but it's not necessary.

rotate the engine until the lobe for each rocker is pointed straight down, THEN adjust that particular valve to spec. The intake should be gapped at 0,006" or 0.15mm and the exhaust should be at 0.010" or 0.25mm

make sure you use a quality feeler gauge since i've compared the cheap ones to the good name brand stuff, and they can be WAAAAY off!



REPORT BACK UPON COMPLETION OF THESE ASSIGNMENTS!
ON THE BOUNCE TROOPER! JK

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To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

Alright, So my truck is running well!

I would just like to thank everyone who helped me solve this problem

I finally found the marks and they lined up! but it turned out my chain tensioner was way to tight and it was putting to much tension on the chain. I figured this out by pressing down the plastic chain tensioner bolt and then releasing it again. figuraus i tried the chain tensioner in two locations. In the down location the chain tensioner was not engaged and moved a lot, when i rotated 90 and it popped up then the chain tensioner was not moving, so i think you have it backwards (i think i remember reading that in another post, when they say in they mean not engaged or something)

I also adjusted my valves. and the suggestions of having the lobes down is brilliant! it worked great and now the engine is purring like a kitten.
Thanks All

Glad you got it running. I knew we all could do it on here. About the chain tensioner: pushing down and turning a 1/4 turn to the right locks back the tensioner from the chain so you have slack to get the sprocket and chain off.
Turning it back 1/4 turn to the left releases the spring to properly tension the chain for operation.

glad it worked out!

i guess either way, its a good thing we checked that tensioner!

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To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

glad we could help... thats what we are here for...

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My old but now gone Luv...