LUVTruck.com

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

I posted the firing order wrong, sorry guys! I was on my way out the door and clearly not paying attention. Isn't pretty much every 4 banger 1-3-4-2? I just checked it against the '78 to be absolutely sure, and it's hooked up correctly. That's what I get for trying to post from memory...

So, after writing the earlier post I realized that the electronic dizzy has no preference as to which plug it fires, the cam rotates past a single pickup. It has to be the cap, right? I cleaned the contacts inside the cap and wiped it out with contact cleaner, and during the process found that the boot for #3 was down on the cap but the contact was pushed way up inside. The cam lobes for the dizzy were crusty/rusty too, so I hit them with a little emery cloth and contact cleaner. It's idling rich, but I'll take care of that in the morning...

It runs pretty well, finally, even with the Hitachi...

_________________
"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

good to hear now all you need to do is come up this weekend and we will do a color tune

_________________
My old but now gone Luv...

I just took it out for about an 8 mile drive and used a 1/4 tank of gas. Yeah, the float is stuck, it's pouring fuel into the primary. That explains why the idle mixture screw is doing a whole lot of nothing. I'm going to tap the float bowl a few times tomorrow, and then put the original carb back on if I can't get it to run right. I'm incredibly sick of messing with this thing, but it won't go over 50 MPH right now and there's no way I can get in to work like that. Still trying to figure out when I turned into such a crappy mechanic, GRRRR.

Ack, I smell like gas.

_________________
"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Hang in there, once you get it right the frustration will be a distant memory...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Whew! I got up early to see if you got it right. Now I can go back to sleep.

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

I put the float in my carb from the carb that was on the truck, it was easier than swapping the whole carb. It was set too high, and I adjusted the tang to get it just above the dot in the window. Still won't go over about 50 MPH no matter what I do to it. I've been messing with the electrical connections (4 plug connector), and these do make a difference. Coasting richer solenoid seems to jump the idle up about 200RPM when connected, none of the switches (gas/clutch) have any effect on it. I think the other two wires are for the anti-dieseling solenoid and the choke. Readjusted the timing for about 6 degrees, per the little label on the hood. Even disconnected all the gobbeldy gook and set the idle using the label. Bleah, nothin' doin. Guess I can hammer out a couple more carb gaskets and put the old one back on tomorrow...

Just won this, but it will need a rebuild I'm sure...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0111644343

I found a place in Monterey, CA that has just the Weber adapters available, $33 plus shipping:

99004.333: Japanese two piece carb adapter.
Adapts DGV series Weber carbs to some Chevy Luv, Dodge Colt/Champ, Ford Courier, Isuzu, Mazda, Nissan, Suzuki & Toyota mainfolds. Manifold studs measure 3.150" x 1.740" (80mm x 44mm) center to center.



http://www.jameng.com/products/index.phtml?section=12

I'm VERY tempted to pull the carb off the '78. It never had much power, but it ran smooth and even with a popped head gasket, starts right up...
But then I couldn't move it out of the way to mow the yard, hahaha..

_________________
"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

any one of these will work, the first one is what is on mine
http://www.jameng.com/products/images/99004.300.jpg
this would be the best
http://www.jameng.com/products/images/99004.250.jpg
and then there is the one you showed..

_________________
My old but now gone Luv...

Here is the vacuum routing on the '79. Anyone who has removed their smog stuff, would you take a look at yours and let me know if I'm off some where?



Thanks

_________________
"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

umm i still have my smog stuff on the truck but a weber. i think the vac line on the manifold(not the carb) goes to the thermo sensor and idle compensator, what check valve do you have on the firewall. I don't think that that line should be at atmosphere. It's supposed to be either closing the idle compensator or powering the flappy thing on the aircleaner. either way it will be either closed or at the same level of vacuum, right

All I did was plug the lines that used to have something to go to. Works for me.

How's it going for you?

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

I put the original carb that was on the truck back on it. The one thing I did was transfer the electronic choke. It's not set correctly, I ran out of time. It idles really nice about 1/2 choked though...hahaha..

I took it for a quick spin but without the choke opening all the way, it didn't really run any better than it has been. I'm going to do a vacuum check on the dizzy tomorrow, just to see if maybe the diaphragm didn't crap out. It acts like it's running on mechanical advance only...

All this pain in the arse for a vacuum leak. I'm pretty confident that problem is solved, but I'm looking forward to the arrival of my weber. I just can't seem to find the 'sweet spot' on these Hitachi's...

_________________
"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Back on the carb rebuild, the sections were filed carefully, because they didn't fit flat against each other. This could cause problems if the body of the carb has leaks. My carb is the original, and it's running good. Catman gave me the electric choke and it works just fine. Starts fine, but the fast idle cam has to be set. It still starts quickly, and easily.

So you're going to go Weber, huh? Cool.

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

Perhaps you should re-adjust your timing.

You are meant to set it with the vacuum disconnected and the line plugged. You might have been having way to much advance on if youve set it with vacuum connected.
Once its set free rev the motor with the timing light on and check to see that the mechanical advance is working.


What plugs are you running??? NGK BP6ES11 (Thats with a 1.1mm gap) if youve got that electronic dizzy in still. Go buy a new set. Worth every cent.
How were the wires/leads, again a new set worth every cent. eBay could be your friend here, ive seen some on there.

Depending on your electronic dizzy setup, hows the coil?? is it wired in without the ballast resistor??? You shouldnt need it for an electronic dizzy. Without it you will get a fatter spark.

As for the carb, im a bit of a nikki fan. Im not one for the Weber idea, none of the 2bbl ones they make the adapters for have the primarys and secondrys the right way around.
Ive never had a drama with the nikki carb on my Space cab nor the I-mark i fixed up for my brother. Im having a little drama with the one on my Luv but im tipping its spark related. Two carbs have the same starting drama and i know the second one was A OK on the motor i got it off.

Bob

_________________
Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

I got a set of plugs today for the new dizzy. You say NGK BP6ES11, but I could only find BPR6ES-11. I hope that's close enough. I will set the gap to 1.1 mm, or .044". I also got the Accel SuperStock ignition coil #8140. I will be checking the timing, adjusting the valves, retorquing the head bolts, replacing the top cover gasket, and installing these new parts later today. I bet it's going to be more awesome than ever!!!!!

No ballast resistor on the new coil, so leave it out right?

I don't know if that makes me smart to ignore the backbiters, or stupid to keep charging goodies for my LUV, but I think it's both.

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

The BPR is a resister plug but runs the same and your radio will like them better

_________________
1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

I went ahead and reset the timing for about 9 BTDC, with the vac line plugged. I checked the mechanical advance, and verified the vacuum advance also.

The plugs I had in it were set to about .035, which is a bit narrow for the electronic dizzy. I put the originals back in, they are NGK's but I forgot to write down the model. They seem to work just fine, and I gapped them all at .044. Ohm'd out all the spark plug leads, they are fine.

I've still got the ballast resistor on the coil, but before I started messing with the carb, it ran fine above idle. I'm going to leave it for now.

Thanks much for the input on this.

It's now a carb issue, the float is set too high. Idle mixture does nothing, but adjusting the timing did even out the idle quite a bit. I set the choke cold today, I'd forgotten about the step down and blipped it before I set it to kick it off the cam. It's now idling very nicely but popping back through the carb like crazy when driving, it's just too rich. I'll adjust the float tomorrow and see what I get. It's close to being right, but not quite...I'll get it yet, just in time for the Weber to arrive...hahaha..

Thanks for following my antics and your suggestions folks, I do appreciate it

_________________
"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

I felt RodeoBob knows what he's talking about, and had the right spirit for LT.com, so I took his advice and ran with it. I omitted the ballast resistor when I put my new coil on. I got the Accel SuperStock and exchanged it with the stock coil. I took the lead that goes to the ballast resistor first and attached it to the positive terminal. The wire that goes from the ballast resistor to the coil is not connected anymore. It's a wanker! I put it over on itself to keep it out of the way!!! All the other wires stayed where they were. I need to take a video and let y'all listen in. It's real sweet!

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

Im not an ignition guru but my understanding is that the balast resistor is there to stop the points getting too much voltage. If your not relying on the points to charge and colapse the feild in the coil you dont need it. The circuitry in the electronic dizzy can cope with the full 12V and sending that to the coil makes it generate a bigger zap. And in most cases that makes a difference.

Hence the bigger gap. (up from .9mm to 1.1mm)

Having said that, if you hook the power into the electronic dizzy the wrong way around you will blow it up.
My theory is, if your grabbing a dizzy, grab the coil too. Cut the wiring on the body/loom side of the coil and leave the wiring between the coil and dizzy alone. Makes it easer to hook up later.


Yeah BPR#### i forgot the R im used to the motor bike caper. Two stroke bikes dont have radios.


Fullaluv, you probably didnt need a new coil. Is the fullaluv handle talking about your truck??? Must be, you said it was having fun with itself.



I know less about carbies than i do about ignition so i might just leave it at that. All i can comment on is that if you arent getting enough fuel that will make your motor not go good. My fuel pump cant keep up, rev the old girl up to much and it coughs and splutters till the carb fills again. Makes me drive all economical like. Maybe i should move the pump, i dont think electric pumps are meant to be mounted on the motor and suck all the way from the tank.


Cheers, Bob.

_________________
Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

Fluid does not compress, so it doesn't make any difference where the fuel pump is. Mine is electrical, tucked away under the vehicle, between the tank and the engine.

I'd say you could use a new fuel pump, and a new fuel filter. There's a filter near the tank and another one under the hood on mine. Could be a float level situation, I don't rightly know.

The FullaLuv came from me, when I was joining this forum and all's I could think about was Chevy LUV, Chevy LUV, Chevy LUV, Chevy LUV...

The wanker is the ballast resistor, which has the red lead going back on to itself. I couldn't get the screws loose to remove it from the coil mount, and I didn't like seeing the wire dangling, so I gave it something to do. More LUV!!!

The new coil is yellow, and I just got all weak-kneed looking at it. It catered to my vanity, what else can I say? Well, it also was recommended by Tazman as well as the parts man at Schucks. You got to remember to focus on a different make and model when you're talking about the e-dizzy. I know the power is there all through the speed range. Where before I made constant use of the 4-speeds, now it's noticeable that there is no missing when accelerating out of a speed too low for the gear; it just goes faster. Almost like having an automatic! I can go from less than 20 mph to 50 in third, and from less than 30 to over 80 in fourth, and all the time it's smooth as a satin sheet.

Scratch a koala bear behind the ear, and tell 'im I said hi will ya Bob?

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.