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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 11:17 pm 
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LUVTruck.com Guru
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Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 12:57 pm
Posts: 183
Location: Havre, MT
do you have the part # for that pump cus the one i'm finding for the luv at auto zone is 72 bucks! not 15-25. i must be lost

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1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it :(
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 11:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:09 pm
Posts: 5272
Location: Salem OR.
here is the one i got from auto zone for some reason auto zone isnt coomming up with it but ask them at the store i think i payed $29 the wife said i may of had a $20 gift card i used also sorry i dont remember.. i do remember it was alot cheaper then the luv one and they where the same pump i looked at both side by side
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... ber=E8012S
here is a better pic
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-PUM ... enameZWDVW

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 Post subject: Weber Carb
PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 1:15 am 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Sat Apr 12, 2003 11:50 pm
Posts: 582
Location: San Leon Tx.
Jets from the factory can sometimes have as much as 40% fluctuation between the two. If you know someone with a flow bench, they can tell you if the jets are flowing correctly.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 9:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 10:32 am
Posts: 106
I'm going to draw this thread to a close.

This rig had been parked next to a barn for a couple of years, and had a few issues, the biggest of which is that it wouldn't idle.

I tried a couple of different OEM carbs, and no luck. I put on a Weber, and things improved alot, but had no power.

Recently there has been a flurry of posts regarding not being able to keep the engine running. In addition, I've seen several Luvs for sale locally with the same complaint. Several people have chimed in to check the voltage regulator. Why do I mention that? Because one of the differences between the Hitachi and Weber is that there are no electrical connections on the Weber. Related? I don't know. At least worth honorable mention.

As for the initial low power problem, most of it has been solved by rejetting the Weber. I took the jets from 135/127 to 145/130. It was a huge difference. Before, the engine would flatten out at 3000 rpm. Now, I've pushed it to 5000 with good acceleration. I believe there is some fine tuning to still be done on the jets, but it's a lot better now. The lesson here is that if you get a pre-owned Weber, get the spec sheet and compare it to what is actually in the carb. It might save you some frustration.

So, in conclusion, thanks to everyone who responded to my questions, prompted me along, and made sure I didn't get tunnel vision.

Off to the next problem!! See everyone on a future post.


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