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ok this is the second set of points i've gone through this month...wots the deal dammit......if anyone knows about this i sure could use some help figuring out why this is happening.

i keep burning them down to the copper bases

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Check the voltage drop across the ballast resistor on the coil while the engine is running.

Just got out to the garage. Resistance of the ballast resistor is 1.3 to 1.7 ohms. If it's zero, change it, cuz you got too much current in the coil primary circuit. That can fry your points.

I think Robertcda has you on the right track. The ballast resistor might also be bypassed and giving the coil full 12 volts all the time. Normally, there is a relay to bypass the resistor when the starter is engaged to give a stronger spark for starting the motor. But, it may be that either the resistor failed and someone bypassed it at some point, or that relay may be sticking. Check out the wiring diagrams in the main section of the site here for more info on where power is going to get to the coil. A multimeter would help figure out if the coil is getting 12 volts all the time. However, you could try running the truck with the resistor disconnected from the coil. Keep the other wire hooked up, just unhook the resistor wire. If it tries to start while the key is turned to start, but dies as soon as you let off the starter, the relay is working at least. If it runs, then start checking the relay.

The only other thing I can think of is that I've pretty much always replaced the condensor when replacing the points. Its cheap and not much trouble to swap especially when doing the points. It might be yours is bad and causing problems with the points.

Yeah these guys got you on the right track... I'm thinkin it's probably the ballast resistor...

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"In the end, all business operations can be reduced to three words: people, product, and profits." - Lee Iacocca

all rightey.............resistor is good...i've already replaced all(score!) the relays....??????i'm lost. I think my truck is cursed.....if i could just get the time to drop my 3.8 in I think most of these prolems(yes, i did spell that right)will just go away. The simpler the better right?

welcome and hello Carl !.......what do you drive??

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Let me see if I got this right. You replaced the ballast resistor, points. and condensor, right? Have you a multimeter and know how to use it? Maybe we can find this gremlin of your's.

Jeez. Thanks for reminding me. I have to put the ballast resistor back in.

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More LUV than one man could ever need - Spread the LUV!
- 1976 Chevy Longbed - Daily Driver
- 1981 Chevy Shortbed 4X4 - Needs Help!
- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together

make sure you have a point type coil for that truck. As spec.
If you changed the coil make sure it was the right type(input resistance)

I took mine out for diags. Now I can put it back

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More LUV than one man could ever need - Spread the LUV!
- 1976 Chevy Longbed - Daily Driver
- 1981 Chevy Shortbed 4X4 - Needs Help!
- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together

ok....let's see....stock?(nippondenso)coil,points,(now new),new condenser,balast checks out,.....what else?

Would over reving the motor alot do this?

I live in the hills and i have to pull alot of grades on the way to work, the motor really needs a rebuild(or a replacement)and i rev the s#@t out of it on any grade over 4%(most of em')

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I had to replace the points in my 80 4x4 every 6 months. They weren't burnt as bad as your's, but still burnt some. I thought 6 months was too often. I've had vehicles where the points lasted a whole year. Reving the motor shouldn't burn the points just cuz they're opening and closing more often. The condensor stores the charge when the points are open and so prevents them from arcing. This arcing is what burns the points. So the question is "What's causing too much arcing?" High voltage (Like a shorted or bypassed ballast resistor.) Too small or bad condensor (So the charge isn't stored and therefore jumps the points.) Are you sure the ballast resistor is wired up correctly? Is the right coil installed. Sorry, my mind is drawing a blank.

I just wanted to let you know, if you leave the truck in the "on" position often without the truck running you can burn points that way as well.

BINGO!!!!!

Turns out that my battery drain when the truck is off(4 days till it won't start) is in the ignition circuit and there's power to the coil when the key is off.that could do it couldn't it?

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Isn't that a pain? One of those things that you would never think would be the problem and whap! There it is.

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More LUV than one man could ever need - Spread the LUV!
- 1976 Chevy Longbed - Daily Driver
- 1981 Chevy Shortbed 4X4 - Needs Help!
- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together

Yeah it figures have had that happen before...

I had that problem with the 75 and the tail lights. What a pain. Come to find out a fifth wire was needed to make it work. Grrr.

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More LUV than one man could ever need - Spread the LUV!
- 1976 Chevy Longbed - Daily Driver
- 1981 Chevy Shortbed 4X4 - Needs Help!
- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together

where's all the luv at?
Troubleshooting long distance always takes longer. But now you have a new problem to troubleshoot. Has anybody done any rewiring on the truck? If so, that's the first place to look.

When I first got my 79 4x4 it had all kinds of electrical gremlins. It took me a while to catch on, but I finally figured out that if anything looked like it had been worked on then I needed to tear it back apart and fix it right. The prior owner(s) had basically screwed up everything they touched. Once I caught on, I went through the whole truck and reworked everything that didn't look like stock. After that, no more problems.

Yeah i did that with my diesel luv cause they had rigged everything....took awhile but oh well