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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 5:54 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, Washington
Sorry for the short post. On my cell. Having an issue with my truck. Doesn't turn over and lights turn dim but if I jump it. Just connecting it to the other car without it on, I have full juice. Starts right up. When disconnected I turn it off. Immediately try to start and it tries to turn over but then dies. Help?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:09 pm 
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Sounds like a dead cell in the battery...

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:52 pm 
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yep ... had that happen to me before... put in a new battery and work great from then on

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 7:28 pm 
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Sounds like a bad connection somewhere. Could be inside the battery.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:09 pm 
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sounds to me like your alternators bad? If it runs with the jumper cables on and as soon as your disconnect the jumper cables then its your alternator not your battery... Something is wrong with the alternator or there is a loose connection between the alt and the battery.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:16 pm 
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Not what he said, he said if he disconnects the jumper cables and immediately tries to start it, it won't...

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:36 pm 
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A vehicle will stay running as long as the alternator is putting out voltage regardless if there is a battery or not. Battery is dead because the alternator isn't doing its job. thats why i think its the alternator.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:41 pm 
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OK, I'll try this again... His post doesn't state it is dying when he removes the jumper cables, he states that when he cuts it off, it won't start. As soon as he reconnects the jumper cables it fires. The key is the 'as soon as he connects the cables' part. If the battery was dead, or down, it would take a few seconds to start, a dead cell in the battery is usually indicated by the instant start after connecting to an alternate power source...

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:45 pm 
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He said after a jump start, he takes the jumper cables off, shuts the truck off, and it won't restart. I think it's a dead/bad battery also.
But to make sure the alt. is charging the battery as it should, jump start the truck, take the jumpers off, and with it running, take off the ( - ) ground battery cable. If the eng. continues to run, the alt. is good. If the eng. dies, the alt is not charging.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 2:19 pm 
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Before you do anything else clean the hell out of your battery posts and cable ends.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 2:38 pm 
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It would really help to have a multimeter in this situation. As suggested clean your battery posts and cable connections. Re-connect and make sure connections are tight, Then test with a multimeter. Battery should read 12-12.5 volts before starting. Then with the engine running if the alt./volt reg is working properly, battery reading should be 13.5-15.5 volts. Anything more or less indicates a alt./volt. reg problem, otherwise its your battery.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 9:24 pm 
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First night I got my LUV running on the Weber the battery did the same thing. When I tested the voltage with the key turned off I had 12.8V, when I turned the key on I had 5.5-6V. The cells shorted inside the battery every time I put a load on it.

Sucks to spend another $75 right off the bat but it runs like a top, now. Get an Optima and let it outlive the truck.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:53 pm 
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Oops forgot to mention a couple things.

First. Its a brand new battery and when this happened I had the batt for a couple weeks. It fired right up at first until I let it sit for a week. Then I had this issue

I have a multimeter but can't remember the read outs ill have to test it. One thing I messed up on though was when the truck was running, to test the alt I always unhooked the + wire not the -! So without doing anything I'm sure its the alt since it seems the battery is not holding a charge. I ran it and left it on for a couple hours at a little over 1k rpms thinking it would charge the battery but as soon as I turned it off of course it didn't start.

The thing with that though it seemed like when testing the battery with the multimeter it stayed just over 12 v after running for a while when the truck was off.Maybe it is just a connection issue..hopefully an easy fix

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 3:18 pm 
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Jump start your truck and then disconnect your battery cables. If the charging system is working properly your vehicle will run without a battery with no problems as long as you don't let your cables ground out. I bought two bad batteries in a row from Wal-Mart a couple years ago and it drove me crazy thinking I had a short somehwere. I couldn't find a problem and stuck the second battery in another vehicle and it kept dying so I knew I had a bad battery.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 4:15 pm 
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Ill give that a try once I get home and post the results. I'm hoping cost less auto parts will let me return the battery if its been longer than a month

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 5:27 pm 
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i just went throw this and i had a bad cable end was just a lil dirty i also had a bad alt so i got a new alt and new ends and she still runs great what the guys are saying sounds good hope you get ti fixed

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:56 pm 
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Just checked the battery, it hasn't been connected for a couple weeks and the multimeter states 12.2 and increases to 12.3 and back down every few seconds. I didn't try to turn it over but will a little later. Does that give any insight to anyone since the batt seems to be okay without doing much? Or will trying to turn it over give more?


Edit.. doing it right now when I turn it over it drops down to 04.xx and then when holding it drops down to 01.xx and when releasing goes up to 11 12 area but after cranking it a few times its down to 09.2 and holding.

Any ideas?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 5:13 pm 
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i for one say its the alternator. but hell you could always go get it tested at oreillys or autozone.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 5:39 pm 
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yes pop the alt off and the bat take them to the auto store just to rule them out if they are good but it sounds like the bat it will hold a 12. and then when you try to put it under load to start it it goes down fast i have seen this in the past when the bat has a bad plat in it put just check them

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:33 pm 
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Use your multimeter and check it like this: Place the meter probe on the + cable and turn it over checking if the voltage drops to 0. If it does then place the probe on the battery center post only not touching the cable end----turn it over again, if it still drops to near zero the battery is bad, if it now stays near 12V the cable connection is bad at the post.


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