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I have a 77 stock luv... I went out one morning started her up didn't really warm it up, started driving and it died and wouldn't start up again. I let it sit for like two weeks going out about everyother day trying to start it. After about two weeks she just fired right up. I drove it for a couple of months and now it is doing it again. It died and now it won't start. I have no emissions crap on the motor, as of right now I have replaced the coil, condenser, cap, wires. It is getting gas and spark as far as I can tell. Please help with any ideas. Thanks guys.

i would check to make sure that it is getting spark, it sounds like the ignition switch mite be bad, sometimes it works and sometimes not ,i would start there

can i bypass the ignition switch somehow to make sure that is what it is?

anybody have anyother ideas, I still can't figure it out and would appreciate any imput. Thanks in advance!

You didn't say if the motor would turn over when you tried to start it. Im assuming that it will crank and crank but not fire up.

Try taking a wire from the battery and go straight to the resistor at the coil. Make sure you remove the original wire before you attach the jumper wire from the battery. Use alligator clips so you can remove it easily. Power will go from the battery to the resistor, thru the resistor and to the coil. This way, your bypassing everything to the ignition.If it wont start and your sure it's getting gas, look at the coil and resistor to see if they went bad or the points failed or the condenser died or you got a wire grounding out somewhere to the distributor or in the distributor.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Check the condenser in the distributor also. The points and condenser are cheap so replacing them won't be very expensive. They do go bad so I would check all that.

_________________
Hammer to fit, paint to match.
If it aint broke, don't fix it.
There's always room for duct tape and bailing wire.

WATCH YOUR PIEHOLE!!!!!!

If the problem is here today and gone tomorrow, i'd think it's a shorted wire grounding out or a loose connection somewhere.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Thanks guys I will try all that and hopefully my next post will be... "It's alive!!!"

Make sure you're voltage regulator is still providing power to your fuel pump when the battery is fully charged. If you recently changed the VR, I've found that some are wired incorrectly.

-DK

What year is your truck DK? I have a 79 and the voltage regulator has nothing to do with the power supply for the fuel pump. Juice goes from the batt to the ignition switch, and depending on the position of the switch, it goes to either the starter, relay and pump. Or through two fuses (one is the relay coil which in turn goes to ground. The other is to the normally open side of the relay). During start, the relay fires to the normally open position for starting. This gives power to the fuel pump during start. After the truck starts, the relay loses its ground and relaxes to the normally closed position. This is how the fuel pump gets power for running. Larphead, Blue Meanie, Ben, and countless others were trying to help me figure this one out many many moons ago. I finally got it straight but I also got to memorize the wiring diagrams from the manual .

_________________
Hammer to fit, paint to match.
If it aint broke, don't fix it.
There's always room for duct tape and bailing wire.

WATCH YOUR PIEHOLE!!!!!!