LUVTruck.com

Hey everyone, long time no talk. I haven't been on these forums for a while.

Anyway, i've got a problem, I have a 79 luv, and i blew the head gasket like 5 or 6 months ago, but my dad decided to rip apart the engine and completely rebuild it, so we sent the block and head to a machine shop, and for some reason, they messed with the valves, i dont really know how to explain it. But my dad needs to know how they are adjusted, and in the manual that came with the truck it doesn't say anything about the valves.

actually, that book sucks, it hasn't helped us much besides telling us the torque settings for a lot of stuff.

The (nuts, if thats what they are) on the valves in some places are loose, and some are tight, and my dad said there is a certain way they have to be tightened or loosened. But hes not sure because he's used to working on v8's and 6 cylinders. Mine is a little 4 banger

If anyone can decipher my stupidness in this thread and help me out, that would be great. I figured I'd turn to the best for these problems.

Thanks,
-Chris

In your manual where it shows how to rebuild the engine and replace the head, it should show you the proper way to set the valve clearance... if it is a chilton's, a hayne's, or a clymer book.

It's a pretty simple process that takes a few minutes and some simple tools...so don't sweat it too much.

Basically...you have to get #1 piston up on compression stroke top dead center to adjust the clearance on some, and #4 piston up on compression stroke top dead center for the others.

If you tell me which book you are using...me or someone else here can probably even give you the right page numbers to look for and talk you through it.

I have a chiltons, a haynes, a clymer, an isuzu factory, a gm factory, a petersons, and several mitchells and motors manuals, etc. that apply to your truck...so it's too bad we don't live closer to each other.

wow lol thats a lot of manuals.


ill go check as soon as im home and ill post what kind of book it is.

well i got home kind of fast. i was right next door. haha

anyway, its a haynes manual, years 72-82

if the years matter or not.

Alright guys, I found the info I need. i think.

but i am not the master mechanic, and some of this stuff just confuses the hell out of me.

Is there anyone here that can just tell me exactly what tools I need, and what I need to do to fix these valves.

Thanks guys. I'm hopin someone can, because I do NOT have the booksmarts for this kind of stuff. :'(

-Chris

you said the block and head were sent to the machine shop and they messed with the valves, did the head get a valve job? or did it just get checked? anyway, you are going to need a torqwrench, and a set of feeler guages.

http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp

i think they just checked it.

and that site is talking about like hydraulic, solid, hydraulic roller, solid roller.

I have no idea what kind mine is. does anyone know? hahaha 79 luv, g180 engine and head. if that helps.

You should maybe find a friend or relative that has done a valve adjustment on a 4 cylinder before to assist you...even though it isn't that technical...doing it improperly could really screw things up.

One of my other half's co-workers just went to the local auto parts store and paid one of the guys a few bucks to stop by on his off time and help him...so you and your dad might consider doing that.

Every tire shop, muffler shop, auto repair shop, etc. has a bunch of people that know how to handle a set of wrenches hanging around that could use a few extra bucks.

Just a suggestion...

That actually sounds like an excellent idea. hahah

thanks guys,
-chris

lol i just read a bit more, and that was the easiest thing i've ever done in my life.

it was really simple once i got the first one.

but.. question.

the reason why you turn the pistons to TDC, and adjust the corresponding valves on exhause and intake side, is so the arm isn't on the lobes right? around the cam?

well on my engine, piston one was at TDC, and i could adjust both number 1 exhause and inlet valves. number 2 exhause, 3 exhause, 4 exhaust and inlet.

then just turned it one revolution and adjusted number 2 inlet, and number 3 inlet.

according to the book it was different. does it really matter? as long as the rocker arms weren't rested on the cam lobes right? or whatever lobes those are.

Yes it matters because it makes a hell of a difference about whether it will ever run without self-destructing.

This is important for you to understand...when you get number 1 on compression stroke top dead center...you adjust some of the valves, and then when you get it on number 4 compression stroke top dead center you adjust the rest...exactly according to their order in the manual.

Take out the plugs and you will feel air pressure coming out of the plug hole as the piston comes up...if you don't ...then you are on the exhaust stroke...not the compression.

You have to be on the compression stroke and the piston must be on he absolute top of it's stroke to set the adjustment right.

You can badly damage a valve or a piston and really screw up a good engine if you don't get this right....so make sure you do.

The book is right...treat it as your holy Luv bible...and don't get creative or you will be sorry.

hmm alright.

ill run that by my dad, he seemed to think he was right about it, that maybe i was looking at the wrong engine specs in the book, because there are 2 engines.

but i told him i was looking at the right one. thanks man. im glad someone is lookin out lol.

-chris

i know when i check to see if the #1 cylinder is at tdc doin it by youself can be a pain. What I do is take your plug out, and use a small flashight to look it the chamber through the plug hole. When you turn your crankshaft you can see the piston moving, and when it reaches tdc it will stop coming up and start going down, so youll be %100 sure, just another way to skin the cat

Another way to do it is to look at the cam and have the lobe pointed straight down the do the same with the rest. Just for argument i will put the engine on TDC adjust the valves then go through the firing order and when back to number one it's done. I usually use a phillips screw drive in the plug hole to find TDC but i have been doing it this way for 45 years so i have a feal for it.You can do the same but use caution as you can get the driver stuck or worse cause damage to the piston everybody has their way of doing the adjustments just take your time and you will have no problems.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

forgot to post we finally got it finished.

truck is finished and purrs like a kitten.

Great news...well done!