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 Post subject: Stock Carb
PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 5:41 am 
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA
after getting all the fuel delivery straight the truck started right up. I let it warm up and it still seems to be idleing high. I don't have a Tach yet(Tues is Payday).

I will be honest I know very little about Carbs. My Q is what position should I put all the adjustments at for a good starting point(choke, Idle mixture, Idle speed). I know I can tweek it from there.

Thanks for the Help.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 9:55 am 
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da LUV masta

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Location: NE Washington, USA
Set the Idle Jet adjustment screw, the one with the spring in the base of the carb, at 2 and 1/2 turns out. The Idle Speed screw, the one on the lever control arm below the choke lever, should be adjusted so the engine idles at 900 RPM. Be sure to plug the spark vacuum advance port when you do this. Fine tune from this starting point.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 11:30 am 
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Thanks
What about the Choke? Where should I place it to begin with?

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 9:24 pm 
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da LUV masta

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Loosen the 3 screws on the metal ring around the black round cover that covers the bimetalic spring beside the choke. I can't remember the exact measurement, but on a cold engine rotate the black cover to close the choke leaving a 1/16" opening gap. Then tighten the 3 screws.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2004 4:21 pm 
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Ok I did everything yall told me to do and even took all the jets and verified they were clean. it will run but way up in the 1500 to 2k RPM range, I let it warm up and pull/pluged the vac hose from the dist. IfI try to adjust it any lower it dies on me. Does any one have any suggestions. I'm to the point where Im gonna take it to the local Carb shop and say "Fix It, please".

Thanks

Signed "Man with Headache"

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2004 11:52 pm 
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da LUV masta

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You might have a vacuum leak leaning out the mixture too much to let it idle any lower. Plug/cap all the vacuum ports on the intake manifold and carb except the spark advance vacuum line to the distrbutor and see if you can lower the idle. If you can, then put the vacuum lines back on one at a time until the idle goes south again. That last line would be the source of the leak. One thing to check before all this is to pull that spark advance vacuum line to the distributor off at the carb and try to suck air thru it up from the distributor. If you can, then the diaphram in the advance unit on the distributor has a hole and there's your leak.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2004 11:00 pm 
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try to jumper the idle stop solinoid to a 12 volt supply. it's right behind the accel pump linkage, see if that helps, it sounds like the same thing me and a few others have had problems with......if it works then you probably need a new speed sensor(just above the gas pedal)

I don't know exactly how they're wired but mine would intermittantly do tthe same thing and it was set off by a large vibration in that area that the sensor was mounted (like slamming the hood)


i also don't know for sure ,but this has happened to a few people after they replaced heads

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2004 12:54 pm 
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Ok I finally got a chance to look at the LUV again. :)
Now that my mind is clear and focused this is what I have noticed. Cold engine will start right up. Once it Warms up and the Choke opens fully it dies. :( Here is what I have done: Rebuilt Carb, Replaced all Fuel delivery stuff from Tank to the filter by the carb, Checked for leaks and replaced Vac Hoses, Jumped the Idle stop solonoid to +12V. No change after all that good stuff.

My Guess is New Weber carb the only problem $$$.

Thanks in advance

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 2:24 pm 
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da LUV masta

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Leroy:
If the engine fast idles okay on cold start but dies after the choke opens on engine warm up, this is indicative of a too lean mixture. Spray some D-40 top and bottom along the intake manifold where it bolts to the engine block. If the engine speeds up suddenly, then you've temporarily sealed a vacuum leak, so the mixture is normal allowing the engine to idle normally. Spray around where the crab bolts to the intake manifold, also. Having said that, one of the Hitachi's from my LUV was driving me nuts even after a rebuild. I had raw gas pooling in my intake manifold. Plus the tail pipe was sooted up horribly. Obviously the crab was leaking internally somewhere. But no cracks could be seen. Sometimes you just gotta punt. A new Hitachi fixed the problem.....'til another carb problem reared it's ugly head. I finally bought a Weber and am happy with it. No more problems.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2004 7:43 am 
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Mine likes to stall when I have ran it nearly to work. I think the throttle is sticking. So when I get it home it is gonna get a bath in PB Breaker and WD-40 while it is sitting on the truck.

Other than that, I had that sucker up to 75 on the interstate 8O She just kept wanting to go! She seemed like she liked it and wanted more. So I told her baby steps!

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