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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 12:55 pm 
it depends a lot on what your listening to and how much bass your pushing...bass sux a LOT of power. I listen to a lot of r&b which really makes some bass so it pulls a lot.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 1:05 pm 
well I listen to about everything heavy metal,country and some rap but mainly the country and heavy metal.....I can tell yoy when i turn it up it will crack my windows.......unfortunately have done it before thats how i know.... :lol:

have two 10 inch pyle subs with a 1000 watt amp behind the seat with also a 6x9 in a independent box on each side of the subs plus two 5 inch speakers in kick panel...


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 5:18 pm 
did you rewire your truck or something slick? maybe my wiring is bad and thats why i have problems?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 7:30 am 
The only wiring I have changed in my truck is the amp wires and cables for the amp.Other than that I have changed nothing.Well and wiring for aux lights....but other than that nothing.....


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 11:17 am 
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Posts: 152
Location: Des Moines IA
one of the things you guys need to know here that nobody has mentioned so far is that people put too much emphasis on brand names when it comes to subs.....ie a guy will go out and buy a single or pair of JL 10w0's, Fosgates, MTX's, whatever and then go buy a prefab truck box and put them in and run em.

NO NO NO!!!!

more emphasis HAS to be put on matching the box type/size with whatever speaker you've chosen's specifications, ie learn what thiele small paramaters are and apply them or find someone that understands that aspect of car audio and have them do the work for you.

WHY??? simple....my example is real. I worked at a shop and built boxes for customers. A fellow employee had a hard on for Kicker stuff. So I bet him I could could go lower louder and have the same if not better sound quality. We used the IASCA 2000 setup disk as our music choice. He bought a pair of 12" solo barics, I picked up a new pair of Polk EX 12" for like 35 a sub. his subs were like 125-150 ea. He dropped his subs in a prefab small volume sub box. I built mine. We both powered our subs with a Linear Power's 2.2HV (Kick ass amp btw) and my POS cheap subs kicked his ass. Why? I built the box specifically for the sub I intended on running, thats the key. A good sub in a spec built box is gonna be awesome. but you can also make junk stuff like sparko, boss, profile sound ok in a good box.

So should you go out and buy a quality brand name sub? Absolutly but you also should seriously consider building the box or having it done specifically for your vehicle, and that's probably what going ot cost quite a bit of money but thats the secret, matching the subs spec against the box.

If any of you are open to sugestions on subs, staying with a JL or a fosgate or Kicker is ok and pretty mainstream but if I may suggest a KICKASS sub that you'll have to toss some power at ( the JBL amp mentioned in an earlier post is an awesome bang for the buck). I'd suggest you look into Adire Audio's selection. Especially if you are here in the pacific NW. They are one of the best sub mfgrs around and they aren't a ton of money.

as for the head unit, Eclipse and Alpine are where its at. Pioneer and the Premere lineup is good mainstream equipment, so dont rule it out.

as for midrange and highs, Focal kicks ass as well as Boston Acoustics....good stuff not a lot of money (but you can spend a lot if you want on both mfgrs high end stuff).

thats my .02

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Bagged 84 Pup
Bagged 53 F100
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 11:29 am 
Well for the most part you are really right...the speaker and the size of the box and configuration are the most important things in this aspect.But in the same aspect car stereo nowadays are not out for good sound but for how much s**t they can sell you and money they can make...at least that is my experience and thats why i do all my stuff in my truck....


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 11:48 am 
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yeah, I totally agree slick, in all honesty I'd be hard pressed to find a competent shop around here that I would trust to do the work. I'd just do it myself. Like most things on my truck....http://forums.luvtruck.com/viewtopic.php?t=4127

what I was trying to get at though was that if a person was just looking for a head unit and a couple of speakers hell anything would work but if a person is serious about a good quality system, do some research and go listen to what you think is best. http://www.sounddomain.com is a good place to get up to speed.....

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Bagged 84 Pup
Bagged 53 F100
stock 72 Citroen DS19


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 12:03 pm 
Exactly I agree with that also...Did alot of research before i did mine...Yeah I agree I dont trust or think a stereo shop is competent to do it the way i want...so i just to do it besides everybody that has seen think its professional and asked me to do there's......but i wont do that too many things or problems that can happen from that


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 3:56 pm 
hey sundown do you know of any websites that are specifically for box building so i could learn the techniques and tricks and what not for doing it?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2004 10:33 am 
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I learned by getting the mags and readign those, then getting some real world experience by working for a shop. BUT, you can learn this stuff by reading forum posts, asking questions over on Sounddomain.com.

I used to use a program (which is now ancient) called Blau Box. It was program wehre you would just plug in the thiele small parameters of the particular sub you were working with. You could then enter the expeced volume of your sub box and see the resultant frequency to DB curve. You can play around with the box volumes and see the curve change, so you can make the sub hit hard at a certain freq range or make the sub go lower in the freq range. you are tuning the box to the subwoofer kind of a cool program to have. I'm sure that there are better programs out now though for box building, its just that I dont have them...I installed though high shcool and college but now just do it when I need something done myself.....

Ported enclosures get a bit more complicated as you are not only messing around with the volume of the box but also the the length and diameter of the tube/tubes for the port. The length and diameter of the tube is what does your frequency tuning for the box. And figuring out which length and diameter is difficult and is NOT universal from sub to sub.

So you can see how prefab boxes are ok, but buying one means that your subs full potential is proabably not optimized.


BTW, a question was asked about making a smaller enclosure for a sub (sealed) than what your supposed to run.....you can help offset some of the effects a samll enclosure has on a sub by adding poly fill inside the sub box. The subwoofer sees the poly as extra volume...so you can fool the sub by building a smaller box and putting in polyfill before installing the subwoofer. Typical fill is given as a pound per cubic foot, but youc an play around with it. Now your only going to fool the subwoofer a little bit, you cant just stuff a ton of this stuff into a tiny little box and expect your sub to perform like it is supposed to.

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I TOOK UR MOM DRAGGIN LAST NIGHT
Bagged 84 Pup
Bagged 53 F100
stock 72 Citroen DS19


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