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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2017 5:25 pm
Posts: 14
Location: Kansas
I can hear the old-salt mechanics rolling their eyes now. But I wanted to help others who may not have any idea how to proceed with this modification.

I am sure there are other posts on this subject, and I did get the basic gist of putting a 1982 LUV electronic dizzy in a 1980 LUV from a walk through posted in the technical section. But I had a few concerns with that modification because the poster used an ignition control module from the 1982 donor truck. Good luck finding one, Rock Auto had one for an Isuzu for about $300. I have a '77 LUV and my stock dizzy seized on me and since I had to buy a new one anyway (but didn't want to spend $300+ on a pertronix unit) I thought I would try some off-the-ebay-shelf stuff.

I used the 1982 stock LUV electronic dizzy, cap and rotor. I also used a 4 pin GM Ignition Control Module (Proform 66944c. Good for 7,500 RPM). 4 wires, some crimp fittings, and a homemade heat sink and I was back up and running again. So if anyone is interested in knowing you can have electronic ignition in an pre-1981 LUV for about the same cost as having an old point-breaker style. Provided you can find the 1982 dizzy...

Wiring is as follows
Pin C goes to the negative post on the coil.
Pin B goes to the positive post on the coil.
Pin W and Pin G go to the wires on the dizzy.
(If your idle is rough reverse the wires on W and G)
Put the Ignition Module on a heat sink. It should come with dielectric silicone to allow for heat transfer into your sink. I made my own out of strips of copper soldered together. But one is available for purchase if you want. Your heat sink provides the ground circuit for the ignition control module, so be sure it is well secured.

Thanks for looking and good luck!

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 8:09 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2017 9:27 am
Posts: 63
Nice infos,can you post some pictures?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2017 5:25 pm
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Location: Kansas
Here are a few pics.


Attachments:
File comment: Ignition Control Module on heatsink bracket. Mounted to relay box by coil.
20171217_195413-1.jpg
20171217_195413-1.jpg [ 1.02 MiB | Viewed 618 times ]
File comment: Series 11, 12 dizzy
20171217_195432-1.jpg
20171217_195432-1.jpg [ 890.5 KiB | Viewed 618 times ]
File comment: Heat sink made from copper strips soldered together
20171217_195447-1.jpg
20171217_195447-1.jpg [ 769.74 KiB | Viewed 618 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 9:07 pm 
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Location: Camarillo, CA
You said wires W and G go to the wires in the dizzy, that wires in the dizzy? What are you using as a reference for the igniter if you have one, are the points in line still?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 9:18 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2017 5:25 pm
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Location: Kansas
The magnetic pickup in the distributor has two wires coming out of it. Those wires need to go to the W and G pins on the ignition control module. As far as I know it is as simple as that (unless I just got incredibly lucky). What do you mean when you ask if the points are in line still?

As a side note I completely bypassed the ballast. It is still there in pictures but, as the technical bulletin I read that was posted on this site said, it is unnecessary. I just haven't removed it yet.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:47 pm
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Location: Vancouver, Washington
I used the stock one from an (85?) isuzu p'up with the 1.9. dropped right in. Two wires. Done
Ran trouble free until I swapped engines

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1999 Isuzu Rodeo 4x4, 31" kumho mt's, the wife's DD
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2005 Honda CRF450R my second love in life


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