LUVTruck.com

My 79 4x4 is coming along nicely, but has a knocking sound to the valves. Read the manual and it says to use a feeler gauge to adjust between rocker arm and pin or shaft or something like that. That adjustment is not listed in my specs. It seems like it would pretty easy if you've done it before. Looking for some pointers on adjusting the clearances.
Secondly: Truck is running like crap and failed emissions after I tuned it the best I could. Fixed a bunch of intake leaks by replacing intake gaskets and carb mounting gaskets, but think the gasket in the middle of the carb is sucking in air. I tightened the 3 screws up because they were super loose before I re-mounted the carb, but still hard to adjust. Cold idle choke unresponsive after a certain point. BTW (new cap, rotor, and plugs, oil change, air filter, adjusted distributor timing to be slightly advanced, adjusted mixture and idle screws) Idling high when cold. Failed emissions hydrocarbons. Read 1800 when the max allowed is 300. That means tons of unburnt fuel and maybe some oil is in there. Some black smoke when you first rev for about 1 second, then exhaust is clear. After adjusting valves, should I attempt a carb rebuild and waste that money and time or buy this- http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk663.htm
Having checked around ebay and craigslist, this seems like a great deal. By the time I got a used one for $100, bought a rebuild kit, bought the redline kit for mounting it, bought the kit for the throttle cable and stuff, and bought an air cleaner; it would basically even out. Anybody know where I could get one cheaper?

Adjust valves to .006" intake, .010" exhaust cold.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Often times when you buy a used one you get other parts such as adapter plate or throttle kit. I bought 2 used ones and ended up with everything I needed including air filter. I found them on this site so it was reasonable to assume any extra parts would fit the 1.8. You know that you can always get them new so if your not in a hurry look around and ask if there are any extra parts that might come with it. Good luck.

Edit: Forgot to mention I was able to sell 1 of the carbs and got part of my money back. I actually got the 2nd one with a bunch of other stuff. The deal on Weber direct looks like as good a deal on a new as I have seen too.

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1980 4x4 - Hunt'n truck 9yrs only seen pavement to the gas station. Gets a little spooked when it sees another vehicle.

unless your cam and followers are brand spankin' new you'll hear some valve tap...... that's kinda the nature of an overhead cam motor.

you could take up some of the gap, but in the end you'll get valve float at high rpms if you do.

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Does anyone know what the companion cylinder arrangement is. It's been a while since I've done a valve adj.

Thanks

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled

Ok I'm planning on doing this unless someone objects


Check No. 1 valve clearance with No. 8 8 fully down.
Check No. 3 valve with No. 6 fully down.
Check No. 5 valve with No. 4 fully down.
Check No. 2 valve with No. 7 fully down.
Check No. 8 valve with No. 1 fully down.
Check No. 6 valve with No. 3 fully down.
Check No. 4 valve with No. 5 fully down.
Check No. 7 valve with No. 2 fully down.

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled

For a 4 cyl do it like this:

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Ok thanks I got it handled! My head needed a retorque after 25k miles so I'm glad that I did this. I was a bit confused by the schematic above so I'll just write this for the next guy:

Line up the timing mark with 0 on the indicator. If #1 is rocking, both intake and exhaust are loose and close to .006 and .010, then adjust #1 intake, exhaust, then intake on #2 and exhaust on #3. If #4 is rocking, then do exh on 2, int on 3, and both on 4. Then turn one full rotation and you can do whichever 4 valves you didnt just do.

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled