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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:11 pm
Posts: 148
Location: Tucson AZ
hey all, it has been awhile since I have posted... I have a '79. She has been running erratic for the past month, a lot of herky jerky stuttering when I accelerate, especially when I floor it. I couldn't go above 55 on the highway. I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the carb, and put some Lucas additive to the gas thinking at first that the problem was fuel system related but it still was acting the same. Yesterday the turn signals stopped working. I saw that a fuse had blown and I replaced it. After that the truck wouldn't start. It cranks and it sounds just like it always had right before the engine comes to life. The starter sounds fine. The turn signals, radio, and lights do not work though. After it wouldn't start yesterday, I checked to see if I was getting a spark from the coil to the distributor (pulled the wire from the distributor cap end and held it close to the frame while someone cranked it) but no spark. I then replaced the ignition coil and still no spark. Today I replaced the points, condenser, distributor cap and rotor and still no spark. Does anyone have any suggestions??? :(


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 1:55 pm 
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Hi Dottie

Are you running a coil with a ballast resistor or without a ballast resistor?
It could be that the resistor is fried.

With the ignition switched on but without the starter motor engaged, check that you have power at the coil with a test light.
If there is no spark at the coil then replacing the points and condensor wont solve your problem (Although it is always nice to have new points :) )

Also a good idea to check all of your earths, bad earths will give you no end of headaches.
When you replaced the fuse did you accidentally knock a wire off a connection? Also now that you have replaced the fuse do the indicators work?

Nick


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 4:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2008 11:39 am
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Location: North Carolina
Hello Dottie,
I've had a similar issue with my Chevy Luv. Found it to be inside the fuse block. The terminals were corroded and dirty causing the fuse to only sometimes make contact. I removed fuse block and soaked it some CLR about 3 days. The fuse terminals came out a nice clean copper color. Coated the terminals with dielectric grease and reinstalled the fuse block. Haven't had any electrical issues since. Hope this helps.
Mike.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 4:48 pm 
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Location: Tucson AZ
hey guys!
thanks for the tips! It has a ballast resistor and I think that it in fact may be fried...I will head to auto zone later and get a replacement. I don't have a test light and I don't know much about electric but I touched the points of a multimeter to the two coil terminals. It ready about 3.3 ohms with the truck off and 2.8 with the key in the on position without the starter engaged. What does this mean?

The fuse that I replaced was visibly burned, but it was not the turn signal one. The turn signals have not worked since. I took your advice just now and cleaned the heck out of the fuse box clamps that hold the fuses in (is this the fuse block?). I used "contact cleaner" and it worked pretty well. I replaced all of the fuses with new 15A ones and the turn signals and horn now work! The fuse must have been blown but not in a visible way.

The truck still won't start although it sounds a lot more alive/higher powered (I am not sure why).

I will report back once I have replaced the ballast resistor!

thanks again!
Dottie


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 4:57 pm
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Location: Cornelius Ore
Use the voltmeter or test light to check for 12 volts on the ballast resistor black/yellow wire. This comes from the ignition switch, and from there to that fuse box again. With key on of course. Otherwize you spend needless money replacing parts you don't need to.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 8:48 pm 
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Location: Tucson AZ
all right! thanks you guys!!! I checked the black with yellow stripe wire and the test light lit up. I replaced the ballast resistor and the truck started right up!!!! :D They did not have the same one that was on my coil, only a "universal" one. Like I said, it worked, but I am a little worried that it will get fried if it is not the proper one. It did get hot to the touch after driving around for 15 minutes. Does anyone have any experience with this "universal" ballast resistor? Should I get one more specific to the Luv? this is a picture of it..


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 8:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2005 9:41 pm
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Location: Camarillo, CA
It's basically a drop resistor, they do get hot.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 4:57 pm
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Location: Cornelius Ore
As was said above--they do get quite hot and this is normal. I think you would be ok with it.
The only thing that might happen, if it is not quite the correct resistance, it may shorten the life of the breaker points just a bit. No big deal.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 4:37 am 
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Glad you got it sorted.

You will be totally fine with the resistor you have.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 8:14 am 
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Awesome!!!!! That is a relief! I am about to go to work and I was a bit worried. thanks so much!!!! You guys rock!!!


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