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I have a fast leak coming from the front brakes. Here's the kicker, There is no brake fluid in sight.. it jus dissappers.
Any idea where its leaking to?

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TUFFLUV

Sometimes wheel cylinders just lose fluid out the drum and it all flings off by centrifigul force, so you may not see any fluid. Is the inside of the drum all wet? Im assuming you have drums in front. I have seen fluid leak from the master into the cab as well if you are not sure where it is leaking.

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LUV Truck Desserter!
76 Daily driver (SOLD)
73 LUV (rusting away at the moment)
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63 Nova
74 Camaro

It can leak into the booster, if so, it will eventually wind up in the floorboard when the booster gets full...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

If it is disappearing completely, it could be leaking into the booster, and then be sucked into the carb. That will make it idle rough.

I have seen it where the fluid will leak into the booster , leak out of the booster between the body panels and rust the floor out!

I havent checked my booster yet BUT it drained empty after a day of sitting. If this is the case then there is yet to be any fluid in the cab. And no the truck idles fine, and I have disk brakes up front.

Thanks for the help. This is definetly a mind boggler. Any other ideas; shoot em my way please.

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TUFFLUV

Can you smell oil under the hood?Also check the steel lines from the master cylinder to the rubber brake lines at the a- arms. The fluid could be leaking under pedal pressure and not under rest.So I would physically check those steel lines for leaks.

No oil smell under the hood but i will check them now.

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TUFFLUV

With it just setting there, I can't imagine where it could go out of sight except into the booster and then into the engine. Pull the vacuum line off and see if there is any fluid in the line.

Will do

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TUFFLUV

I have this problem and have noticed fluid in the floorboards. Where is the booster and what part do I need to fix it?

Thanks

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled

The booster is the big round thingy between the master cylinder & the firewall. If the booster is the problem they can be rebuilt or just replaced.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

If your brakes aren't releasing all the way a slight drag can produce enough heat to evaporate the fluid, although at the rate you seem to be losing it I would think you would notice hot brakes.
Failure to return can be the piston or caliper sticking & failing to return all the way or if the adjusting rod between the master cylinder & booster is too long it holds slight fluid pressure at all times.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

So if I'm losing fluid and finding it on the floorboards is it the master cylinder or the booster that is leaking? Which one do I buy

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled

Both. The master cylinder is leaking, but the booster is not designed to hold fluid. The master cylinder will fix but the booster will most likely crap out soon. Might as well do them both while you are at it...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Bench bleed the master before installing. Buy a 18"-24" piece of brake line (M10x1.00 I think), cut it in two, attach to the master & bend the open ends until they can be submerged in a container of brake fluid while pumping the air out. Then make sure the rod into the rear of the master is adjusted to the proper length.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Ok I ordered the master and booster. Can someone elaborate on how to bench bleed please.

Thanks

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled

The master kit will likely have instructions, mine did.
You fill with fluid, connect hoses/pipes to the ports, submerge the ends in clean brake fluid, pump the piston with a screwdriver until no more bubbles, install with it full. You'll still have to bleed the air from the lines to each wheel but the master is air free.
BTW pumping the brakes to bleed should be done with the engine at idle to maintain vacuum in the booster.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Ok got it. Thanks everyone

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled

Put it all in today. Got the parts at autozone. They work great. The master had the brake line ports on the other side so I had to bend the lines around.

Also put in an msd 6 and blaster coil. Retimed to about 13 degrees with vac line on 8-9 without the line.

Gapped to .045 too. I have a vac gauge and I can tell it isles smooth now because the needle used to shake at idle and now it's a bit steadier.

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled