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 Post subject: Carburetor Rebuild Kits
PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 11:53 am 
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Well I'm pretty sure the jets (or needle?) are FUBAR in the carb on my luv. With the fuel pump turned on I can see fuel dripping from them with the throttle closed. (Also thought it was out of gas but came to find out I had a split fuel line, fixed it fuel is back.) The worn jets/needle, I'm thinking, explain why the engine idles so high (tried adjusting idle and AFM but no change).

Been looking around for rebuild kits and wondering if there are any that come with new jets? The rebuild kit that was used on this truck's carb before I bought it didn't come with jets. (Obviously? Otherwise the jets wouldn't be leaking?) From the kits I've searched its hard to tell in the pictures if they come with jets or not, and I know some of them don't, especially the cheaper ones? So what I'd like to know is what have you guys used for rebuild kits? I know these carbs are junk and probably very few of you have wasted time rebuilding them, but if I can get the jets fixed it will be good enough until I can dish out ~$300 for a Weber.

Something like this?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-85-CARB-KI ... 8a&vxp=mtr

RockAuto has some kits as do most parts stroes, Auto-Zone and O`Reilly have whole carburetors for about $400-500 but that's too much.

Might be hit or miss, but I don't want to buy a kit and it not have what I need...

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:47 pm 
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I have not seen a kit come with jets.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:59 pm 
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Why not just call them and ask if thier kits come with jets


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:23 pm 
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If the float valve is shutting off the fuel when the fuel in the bowl reaches a certain level as it should then no fuel can get to the jets to "leak". A jet is supposed to allow fuel past it, so it had better "leak".
Check the float level first, adjust as necessary, make sure the float valve doesn't have a piece of trash keeping it from seating properly & shutting off fuel flow.
High idle is very often a symptom of a vacuum leak, assume it has one & search thoroughly until you either find it or you have eliminated all possibilities.

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'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:59 pm 
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oldestisuzuist wrote:
If the float valve is shutting off the fuel when the fuel in the bowl reaches a certain level as it should then no fuel can get to the jets to "leak". A jet is supposed to allow fuel past it, so it had better "leak".
Check the float level first, adjust as necessary, make sure the float valve doesn't have a piece of trash keeping it from seating properly & shutting off fuel flow.
High idle is very often a symptom of a vacuum leak, assume it has one & search thoroughly until you either find it or you have eliminated all possibilities.


Good advice on the float, I didn't think of that :oops:

I'll also check again for vacuum leaks.

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1980 Chevy Luv (1.8L I4, 4-speed) - Should never have bought this pile of crap
1987 Nissan 300ZX (3.0L V6, 5-speed) - Best car I've ever owned


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:04 am 
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A word of caution- there is a tiny nylon spacer on the float pivot rod, DO NOT DROP THIS, it will vanish & you'll be left to figure out how to fabricate a replacement.

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'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 10:08 am 
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Getting ready to tinker around with the carb.

After looking it over I don't really know how what to do adjust the float on these carbs... I could probably figure it out though.

Going to do a vacuum leak check when I get a chance as well. (Going to take a can of brake cleaner and spray around vacuum ports etc.)

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 11:44 am 
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While checking for vacuum leaks (there were a few hoses that had screws shoved in them, pulled them off and replaced with vac caps.), I noticed that the linkage piece for the secondary throttle valve is not hooked up, leaving the secondary throttle valve wide open.

This would explain a high idle too, yes? It's easier for me to pull the carb to mess with the linkage (since it's right behind where the throttle cable hooks up) so that is what I am going to do. Hopefully that's it!

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1987 Nissan 300ZX (3.0L V6, 5-speed) - Best car I've ever owned


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:10 pm 
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There's a sight window on the front of the carb, the normal fuel level should be centered on the scribed circle. You take off the front cover that includes the sight window to access the float chamber. The float valve rests against a tab on top of the float assembly, you slightly bend the tab in the opposite direction to adjust the float & fuel level towards the desired center position.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:51 pm 
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oldestisuzuist wrote:
There's a sight window on the front of the carb, the normal fuel level should be centered on the scribed circle. You take off the front cover that includes the sight window to access the float chamber. The float valve rests against a tab on top of the float assembly, you slightly bend the tab in the opposite direction to adjust the float & fuel level towards the desired center position.


Okay I will do that while I have the carb out. Swing over to my something missing thread, I've made a discovery that is more relative to more missing parts...

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1980 Chevy Luv (1.8L I4, 4-speed) - Should never have bought this pile of crap
1987 Nissan 300ZX (3.0L V6, 5-speed) - Best car I've ever owned


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