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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:43 pm
Posts: 20
I've enclosed a simple diagram depicting the travel of the accelerator pedal using a portion of a typical clock. I'm having a heck of a time trying to get this truck dialed in so I can drive it comfortably as a daily driver. Yeah, it works, but it is very sluggish (backfiring, spitting, sputtering) in the area noted in the diagram.

I've almost driven this truck off a short dock because I'm so done with it. I'm not afraid to go back and check settings on things I've already set. Don't be afraid to ask the obvious as I'm literally exhausted all my effort and brain cells with this one. What could be the problem? What makes a vehicle spit/sputter/backfire like this? The carb is practically brand new. I'm at my wits end. Please, help me get this thing running good and I'll buy you a steak dinner. I'm desperate at this point. Seriously!

Just for reference, I've replace the following items:

Carb (new Weber 32/36)
Cap
Rotor
Points
Plugs
Plug wires
Clutch (I know, it doesn't have anything to do with the problem at hand.)

I've also:
- set the gap on the points and plugs
- set distributor timing
- made sure all vacuum lines are hooked up
- set idle and fuel mixture screws on carb

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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 7:02 pm 
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Location: N W Arkansas
What engine?
Fuel pressure regulator? You may be overpressurizing the Weber.
check the valve lash, then do a compression test.
Make sure the fuel filter is new.

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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 8:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:47 pm
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Location: Vancouver, Washington
if your not running a fuel pressure regulator you need to use a fuel return lline, weber recommends a reg @ 2.5psi if you dont use a return.. i used the stock fuel and return lines when i installed my weber

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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 9:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 26, 2013 11:26 pm
Posts: 16
Was it running good before you changed all the parts? Start with the basics, point gap and plug gap. Check the fuel pressure, are you running an electric fuel pump or still have the mechanical pump? Did you install a fuel pressure regulator?

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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 12:50 am 
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 4:57 pm
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Location: Cornelius Ore
Problem area is in the rpm area where the main jet should be feeding all the fuel. Maybe restricted main jet?

My second guess is a very long shot, but I had it happen one time long ago. A broken wire inside the distributor that quit making contact whenever the vacuum advance plate moved inside the distributor. Easy to check this however by disconnecting and plugging the advance hose and taking it for a drive.


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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 1:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 7:35 pm
Posts: 83
Maybe a long shot here, are you still using the stock intake manifold with all the smog equipment? I'm running the offy with the weber and I was having 2 issues. My bypass line would starve the carb in 3rd gear at around 3000 and 4th at 2500, and cause it to sputter, so I had to restrict the return a little. Definitely need to change my pump or get a regulator.

The other issue I'm having is the small pcv hose off the valve cover that plugged into the intake manifold, right now mine is hanging loose because when it was plugged into the vacuum port my idle was really rough, like a vacuum leak. If its plugged the engine builds to much pressure and falls flat and spews oil. Perhaps a proper pcv valve to regulate it might help. (could be I may have to much internal bypassing from rings or valves)

I'm no expert and my issues may be completely unrelated to yours but thought I'd share to give a hand.

One more long shot, how old is your exhaust system? Maybe the catalytic is restricted.


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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 4:04 pm 
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Quote:
What engine?
Fuel pressure regulator? You may be overpressurizing the Weber.
check the valve lash, then do a compression test.
Make sure the fuel filter is new.


Stock motor. 1.8L I think? No fuel pressure regulator that I know of. I did replace the electronic fuel pump. Forgot to add that in my list. This is the kind I bought. Have to check valve lash. Also haven't done a compression test. Will do that next. New fuel filter later this afternoon.

Quote:
if your not running a fuel pressure regulator you need to use a fuel return lline, weber recommends a reg @ 2.5psi if you dont use a return.. i used the stock fuel and return lines when i installed my weber


Where would the regulator be installed? In the engine compartment before a filter, or down near the tank?

Quote:
Was it running good before you changed all the parts? Start with the basics, point gap and plug gap. Check the fuel pressure, are you running an electric fuel pump or still have the mechanical pump? Did you install a fuel pressure regulator?


The truck was not running before I changed the carb out. It fired up right away after the new one was installed. The fuel pump is new (electric) and mounted under the truck near the tank. The fuel pump is rated for 2-3.5 psi and seems to pump just fine. I took the fuel line off the carb and put it into a small bucket and then turned the key to the on position. If flowed pretty good. No fuel pressure regulator as of yet. Didn't think I would need one with the PSI the new one stated so I didn't buy one.

Quote:
Problem area is in the rpm area where the main jet should be feeding all the fuel. Maybe restricted main jet?

My second guess is a very long shot, but I had it happen one time long ago. A broken wire inside the distributor that quit making contact whenever the vacuum advance plate moved inside the distributor. Easy to check this however by disconnecting and plugging the advance hose and taking it for a drive.


I will be checking out the carb main jet this afternoon as someone else also suggested I take a look there. Yes, the carb is pretty new, but I bought it a year ago and the truck has just been sitting and not been driven that much. Now I need this vehicle and I am working on it to get it tuned in. All the vacuum lines were all messed up when I got the truck. I now have them all connected in together. There is a outlet near the underside of the intake manifold that I connected to the distributor and carb, and the other port off the intake is connected to something else, I can't remember. Since the hose coming off the valve cover is no longer hooked to old air cleaner, I joined it (using my McGuyver skills) to the connection at the bottom of the new mini air cleaner. I should post some pics of how everything is connected for better reference, eh?

Quote:
Maybe a long shot here, are you still using the stock intake manifold with all the smog equipment? I'm running the offy with the weber and I was having 2 issues. My bypass line would starve the carb in 3rd gear at around 3000 and 4th at 2500, and cause it to sputter, so I had to restrict the return a little. Definitely need to change my pump or get a regulator.

The other issue I'm having is the small pcv hose off the valve cover that plugged into the intake manifold, right now mine is hanging loose because when it was plugged into the vacuum port my idle was really rough, like a vacuum leak. If its plugged the engine builds to much pressure and falls flat and spews oil. Perhaps a proper pcv valve to regulate it might help. (could be I may have to much internal bypassing from rings or valves)

I'm no expert and my issues may be completely unrelated to yours but thought I'd share to give a hand.

One more long shot, how old is your exhaust system? Maybe the catalytic is restricted.


Yes, I am using the stock intake. And as far as the smog equipment goes, I'm not sure of what you're talking about. Is this common on all vehicles in every state or just California cars? Sorry for the newb question. I do know there are some hoses connected together with some sort of vale of some kind that I think comes off the bottom of the intake or near the bottom of the engine, I don't know, and goes back to the gas tank. I'll take some pictures and upload them to help you guys get an idea of what it is I'm talking about. One more thing. The exhaust coming right off the manifold looks like it was damaged at one point and then welded by a previous owner. It literally looks like it was removed from the truck at one point, for whatever reason, and laid on the ground with someone accidentally running over it and squishing it a bunch. Then welding up the pipe where it cracked going lengthwise down the pipe. Another thing I'll take pics of and post.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 10:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:40 pm
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Location: Vancouver, WA
Did you ever fix this problem?? Cuz my truck is doing the same thing now.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 11:20 am 
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Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 10:41 am
Posts: 207
Location: Seattle
Timing set with vac advance pulled and unplugged? It makes a huge difference.

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