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Ok...new coil,ballast resistor,points,fuses. Also replaced the fuel pump...wasn't pushing enough fuel.Now I have fuel ....no spark.Truck is 40 miles from home.Was driving to new job and died when I got there.Acted like a no fuel problem..by looking a fuel flow from pump,wasn't enough volume.It started after the fuel pump then died,wouldn't start again.Used screwdriver to ground plug wire.Also changed fuses. Didn't have a test light with to see if power at coil. Drive pin for distributor gear? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Hook a wire from the battery to the + side of the coil and see if it fires. I wouldn't run it like that long though, the coil could get hot and blow. You could wire from the battery to the ballast resistor on the coil then to the coil though and get it home if it runs that way.

Sounds like it could have an electrical issue. Bad alternator, regulator, or bad resistor bypass relay could cause it to not have power to the coil and the fuel pump.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

There is no fuel pump relay..been bypassed before I got the truck.Need to get it home to work on it.Any other ideas guys?

Nothing else really jumps to my mind. If bypassing the wiring and getting 12v straight into the coil doesn't get a spark (tested at a plug or plug wire to the block) then you've covered most of the parts to replace, coil, points... The only things you don't mention are coil to cap wire, and the condensor. Maybe cap and rotor but they don't usually suddenly die completely. My money would be on bad condensor.

It has been a long while since I've had to work on a pre-76 motor so hopefully I'm not too far off on anything. I think it would be pretty rare for the distributor gear drive pin to fail. Is it driven off the oil pump like the 76 and up motor? Seems pretty easy to check, turn the motor over till the crank timing mark is at 0 degrees, and the dizzy should point to #1 or #4. If it is really in the wrong place or doesn't turn you've got your proof of dizzy gear problem.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

Well..as I recall you should still have spark if the capacitor is shot.Cap and rotor are fine...no carbon or metal build up on the contacts.I need to round up a trailer and go get it! Plug wires have been replaced recently(last 6 months) I haven't changed the VR since I put in the new alternator.

The condensor/capacitor could still be it. From memory and a bit of google, it serves two purposes. One is just to prevent arcing across the points, so they last longer than a few miles. The second function though is to boost the power of the spark created in the secondary windings of the coil by creating an oscillating current between the condensor and the coil's primary winding. No condensor will mean a short weak spark.

It could also short internally and kill the spark altogether. I once got a bad one brand new out of the box. Truck absolutely would not run or even try to after a full tune up. Swapped the old condensor back on and it fired right up.

_________________
95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good