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So I thought I blew the tranny up completely at 50 mph shifting into 4th. It sounded like the engine and trans jumped out of the truck and then seated back in. I kept driving until I was off the bridge and when I slowed down I had trouble downshifting. Then I had trouble shifting at any other time. I got the truck home and now have a chance to look at it. Some people were saying the clutch cable isnt working. Is it possible its stretching? The firewall looks good and all the points where the cable is held are holding strong, but the cable may be stretching. Now I cant shift it into gear at all with the engine running. I can turn it off and put it in, but the truck jumps forward a little in first when I start it. Should I get a new cable? Is the fork bent? What could be wrong. I put a new clutch on it about 3000 miles ago and put a new engine in it about 1000 miles ago. Kept the old trans and swapped new clutch onto newer engine. I adjusted the pedal at that time, but I'm not very good at it, that was my first time. I have since watched youtube videos, and the procedure I'm using now is it grab the cable with my hand and pull the slack out of it and run the nuts finger tight. From what I can tell, that should do the trick.

Thanks,

Mike

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled

Proper clutch adjustment should leave you with about 1 inch of free travel at the top of the pedal. In other words, when you start pushing the pedal the first inch or so should feel very easy to push, then it should start actually pushing on the the clutch (be a bit harder to push).

You may just need to use a wrench to crank the adj. nuts a bit tighter then you are able to with your "pull by hand and turn" method.
(not dissing that method, it's a pretty good one) but maybe not enough in this case.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

Tag-teaming with Ron, it's possible that the adjustment nut backed off over time. I'm surprised you noticed it so suddenly, though. If your firewall looks good, do as Ron said--then once you get it where you like it, make sure the two outer nut is tightened up against the inner one. If not, it will back off again.

There are two places on the firewall to check, though.
1. The opening where the cable goes through, and...
2. where the bracket is bolted to the firewall.
Mine has broken out in both places over the last 29 years, and I've had both repaired.

Jack

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'83 Isuzu P'up Diesel LS - Original Owner
JoeIsuzu@IsuzuPup.com
IsuzuPup.com

So I replaced the clutch cable with new and adjusted it and tried to work it into gear. It still wouldn't go and I think the clutch fork is snapped completely now.

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled