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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:09 am 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
Dont waste your time, this model truck has no connection from the oil pressure switch trigering the fuel pump. Luvs did not come stock like this, later chevys did.


it runs and then the level drops below the window before it dies
then yes the fuel pump run circuit through the alternator/regulator/relay is the problem.
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If thats the black and blue wire thats the only wire we havent tested yet

*****
It has to be something you did wrong in the manifold repair
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it was two identical gaskets unsure of how we went wrong there
******
Well you have definitely nailed it down to a fuel problem if it runs with the starting fluid, spray cleaner, feeding it. Have you checked the fuel pump pressure?
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replaced brand new airtex fuel pump rated as a replacment
******
Just a thought, but IF a vacuum line is hooked up wrong to the tank it will create a negative pressure in the tank and this will not allow the fuel to be sucked out of the tank,
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we labeled and look notes where each went.
COULD someone else before i got the truck routed them wrong and by us fixing the gasket leaks and vacuum hose leaks and hooking up the hoses exactly cause this? it ran prior to fixing leaks but ran like crap in idle speed and power
**********
You said it yourself, the gen light stays on, fix that first and it might take car of the other issues
the generator light only started staying on after we did the intake manifold but the fuse box was corroded and the generator pin is broken but a new fuse box should be here in couple days as well as a faulty ignition switch
so i am at a loss whats going on

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 8:49 am 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:32 am
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You may have several problems to fix. Don't expect anything to work right until you complete the fuse box repair. They are notorious for power in, but no power out even with good fuses. Once things are getting power, you can start on the fuel pump circuit. On the 6 wire plug from the VR white red = W = fuel pump and charge light, white = W = ignition, white blue = B = battery, black = E = earth, British for ground, white black = F = field, the stem of the Tee connector to the alternator, and white green = N, cross bar of the Tee, feeds back to the VR.

You should have about 6 volts on the white/green. Then if the VR is working right, the white/red wire will have 12 volts turning the C light off and operating the relay supplying power to the fuel pump.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 11:59 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 4:57 pm
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Location: Cornelius Ore
Sinse it seems to be a mixture problem and you said fuel pump is ok (fuel level stays ok at the sight glass), try this= remove and plug the hose from the EGR valve under the manifold. If it is opening when it shouldn't it is like a big vacuum leak.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 12:20 pm 
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egg wrote:
Sinse it seems to be a mixture problem and you said fuel pump is ok (fuel level stays ok at the sight glass), try this= remove and plug the hose from the EGR valve under the manifold. If it is opening when it shouldn't it is like a big vacuum leak.


the fuel pump is new (now) ok will try that when i get my carb back- my neighbors son has a mechanics shop and took my carb to check it out. funny when i got the truck the hose from the egr was disconnected hmmmm definatly will check it out.
we have a new fuse box in it and ignition cylinder switch comes today. we also found 2 wire shorts one at alternator and one on one of the relays. so will know in a few days i hope.
thank you everyone :)

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How Do I test it?
Where do i get a new one?
Are we there yet??


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