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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 9:02 am 
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Location: Loranger, Louisiana
Someone up there doesn't like or someone down there really does! As I posted before, I got the wire harness installed and the oil pump crapped out. Installed a new oil pump and now it dosen't run! I have run positive and negative wires right from the battery to the coil (which I just replaced also) and tried starting it. With the timing light hooked up I am getting intermittent firings and/or no firing at all. The points were replaced right before the harness situation and the distributor I picked up from jeffulmer, new rotor and cap.... SSSooooo, it HAS to be the dizzy. Sold ANOTHER one of my radio control airplanes and plane to get the Beck/Arnley #1850326 dizzy. Any thoughts on this problem?
I need to get the truck on the road so I can get a job, well at least TRY. The V8 swap will have to wait until I have the money to get the parts to do it. With luck the bearings will hold up for a few months IF I get it running.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 4:18 pm 
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Does the coil get hot when it quits firing?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 5:00 pm 
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Now that you mention it, before I replaced it, it did seem to be hot. I need to check it again when I get back on it tomorrow. Not in the mood to work on it tonight! I am past the point of frustration. :x
Tried to cut the grass today and the steering went out on the Cub Cadet. Of course it happened at the BACK of the property! Just another typical day in the life of "let's see what can go wrong today" Rick!!!!!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 1:06 pm 
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Is the ignition system stock?

If so, doesn't the coil need a ballast resistor to bring the voltage down some?

Check your gap on your points.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:18 pm 
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It's a stock distributor and I am using a Blaster 2 coil and a new ballast resistor. The points have been checked several times and still nothing. I am looking into the electronic distributor, but as usual, lack of funds will be the deciding factor when I get one. Just don't want to throw good money after bad into it.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 9:17 pm 
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Check to make sure that the distributor is on gears.I have seen where you think you have it set.Also check to see if the points are opening correctly. I worked in a parts store, we had a new set of points decide that they would break after installation and start up!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:15 am 
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The distributor is seated all the way and being 'keyed', I know it is in the correct orientation. That is if I have the oil pump meshed right. But that wouldn't give me intemittent spark if it was wrong.
I will install new points today after I finish my interview at WalMart. They just called me a few minutes ago for an opening in the Tire and Lube section. Of course I was just across the street from them getting the points at AutoZone! So if I get the job, I HAVE to get the LUV running to go to work.....

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 7:49 pm 
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Installed new points and the truck started and ran. The timing jumps around a bit and the coil warms up not not so much you can't hold it. After running, and warmed up, it started to miss and the timing light confirmed it. Couldn't get the carb set so I just shut it down until tomorrow. I really think I need to get a new electronic distributor and solve the problem. Don't see it being anything else but a worn/bad distributor. Inputs?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 1:18 pm 
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Do you happen to have an air duster cans?
It sounds like a coil issue if it starts acting up when hot.

Wait til it starts missing, flip the air duster can upside down, and spray the freezing cold liquid at the coil. If it starts running fine again it's definitely something with the coil.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 2:03 pm 
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I see what you getting at. Hard to believe three coils in a row are bad though. I'll pick up a can-o-air tomorrow and try it.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 5:32 pm 
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With all the coil trouble you are having, I suspect a bad ballast resistor or something is wired wrong and the coil is getting full voltage instead of the reduced voltage through the ballast resistor. Try this: with the key on engine stopped measure the voltage on the Coil + terminal. Do this with the points closed to ground the circuit, or run a jumper to the coil - terminal and ground and read the voltage. This should be 6--8 volts, no more. If it is 12 volts or close to it the coil will overheat and the points will burn in a few minutes running. It sounds like something is connected wrong somewhere.
Thats my guess from a distance.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 10:50 am 
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To quote Elemr Fudd, "Vewy Intewesting."

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:57 pm 
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Checked the ballast resistor and was getting the full 12 volts on both sides of it. So does anyone have a good part number for a proper resistor? The one I have is what Autozone sold to me and I guess it's the wrong type/resistance.
Looking at the points and see thay are already looking bad around the edges. It seems egg is on to something here!!!
Last question (for tonight), if I get an electronic dizzy, can I do away with the ballast resistor?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 3:52 pm 
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Installed the ballast resistor recommended by MSD (I looked through the instructions after reading EGG's reply :oops: ). Also installed new points and condenser and got the truck running! Drove it around 10 miles and kept running. Timing still jumps around three degrees or so and I think that is due to the breaker plate having some rough spots in it which I will address at a later date. The distributor will have to wait as the oil pressure, 12 psi at idle and 26 psi running around 45 mph, indicates I screwed up the bearings when the oil pump went out earlier. SSSOOOOoooooo, now I plan to drive it to work since WalMart just hired me, for a few weeks untill I can check the bearings and order the correct size. If it ain't one thing, it's another!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 5:07 pm 
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Quote:
If it ain't one thing, it's another!


LOL..."if it has boobs or wheels - sooner or later you're gonna have problems with it".

Hang in there. Glad to hear you're back to work.


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