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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 12:33 am 
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Location: Turlock Ca.
Does anyone know the symtems for a blown head gasket, my truck wont stay started and I have a brand new carburetor and it was running fine for a while after I adjusted the float, but now it wont stay started. I just bought a boat and the day I got the boat the truck took a dump on me and I spent all day trying to figure out what was wrong but I couldnt figure it out. If anyone can help It would be greatly appreciated!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 12:53 am 
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
A blown head gasket can show itself in many different ways. It will seem like your only firing on 2 cylinders if it's blown between 2 of them. If pressure is escaping to the water jacket it will cause the cooling system to over flow it can stay running long enough to build enough pressure. Also it will leave an oily residue under the radiator cap. If it leaks to an oil passage it can pressurize the crankcase to the point that it will pump crankcase vapor backwards into the air cleaner assy. From the limited info you are giving it's kinda tough to be sure if thats the actual problem. Does it start smoothly and die? Does it take effort to get it running? Did somebody play a practical joke on you and swap 2 of the plug wires? You need to give some more specific information. It could be anything from ignition, carb (dirt plugging the needle, fuel pump), Disconnected or slit vacuum line (air leak), and the like.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 2:29 am 
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Blue Meanie wrote:
A blown head gasket can show itself in many different ways. It will seem like your only firing on 2 cylinders if it's blown between 2 of them. If pressure is escaping to the water jacket it will cause the cooling system to over flow it can stay running long enough to build enough pressure. Also it will leave an oily residue under the radiator cap. If it leaks to an oil passage it can pressurize the crankcase to the point that it will pump crankcase vapor backwards into the air cleaner assy. From the limited info you are giving it's kinda tough to be sure if thats the actual problem. Does it start smoothly and die? Does it take effort to get it running? Did somebody play a practical joke on you and swap 2 of the plug wires? You need to give some more specific information. It could be anything from ignition, carb (dirt plugging the needle, fuel pump), Disconnected or slit vacuum line (air leak), and the like.
It does take alot to get it started you have to push on the gas alot to get it going but even then it idles really rough and you have to keep your foot on the gas. I have checked the fuel pump is fine, all of the vacuum lines are good, plugs are good, wires are brand new. I just recently tried to get it smogged and it didnt pass, after that it ran like shit, any suggestions


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 6:29 am 
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check out if your distributer is timed right :?

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1980 luv sport 4x4 Just a memory now :(
Frame rusted from the inside. Truck stripped and now looking for a new donor in southern ohio


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 10:47 am 
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Did you replace the carb with a stock Hitachi or did you go with a Weber? Stock Hitachi's rebuilt carbs have been known to function badly. With the air cleaner assy off of the truck, does the air flow sound smooth as it passes thru the carb or does it sound like it's gurgling? Can you see fuel dripping or spraying thru the venturi of the carb. Did the smog test mechanic try and readjust the carb or cap off the distributor vacuum advance? They gotta do some crazy stuff to get it to pass. My advice is to start from scratch. Check your cap and rotor, points (if your truck has them), vacuum advance and set the timing to stock setting. Set your carb adjustment screws to a baseline setting. and go from there. Your gonna have to undo what the smog guy did to find out anything.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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 Post subject: Won't start
PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 12:43 pm 
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I went thru 2 remanufactured Hitachis before I got smart and installed a Weber. The first Hitachi had an internal crack that leaked fuel into the intake manifold. The second had a vacuum leak around the primary throttle plate rod bushings.

If you think the head gasket is blown, do a compression check.


Last edited by Robertcda on Sun Aug 17, 2003 2:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: I dont know what to do
PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 8:08 pm 
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I've tried everything I can possibly think of and I still cant find the problem, I checked out my thermostat and it was stuck, it was stuck kind of open though so I dont know if the head got warped or not. Thanks for your help, if you guys have anymore suggestions let me know


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 Post subject: what years of weber carb
PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 8:10 pm 
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what year of weber carbs will fit a 1980 chevy luv


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 8:43 pm 
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The model Weber you'll need is the 32/36 DGAV. This model will work with all stock Chevy Luv motors. When you order that specific carb, they jet it to suit the truck and they will offer an adapter plate assy to bolt to the stock intake manifold and an air cleaner adapter or new assy. If you have a modified Luv motor, there's the 38/38 DGAS carb that flows a little more C.F.M. If you have a basicly stock motor, the 32/36 DGAV will make you squeal like a schoolgirl. Weber carbs can be ordered thru just about any parts store or look up carb dealers on line and get one delivered to your door. Shop around and find the right setup you want (air cleaner or adapter, linkages and such). Prices can vary greatly from one place to another.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


Last edited by Blue Meanie on Sat Aug 16, 2003 8:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 8:45 pm 
lol @ J


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 Post subject: Shane/Weber carb
PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 11:00 pm 
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If you get the 32/36 DGEV, it'll come with an electric choke. There's also an airhorn adapter available so you can use the OEM breather and hoses.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2003 12:54 am 
i'd go through carbs unlimited

i ordered a new filter assembly(gasket, screws, filter, and chrome cap and lower piece) for 20$, at 11AM and it was at my door at 9AM the next day. i do live 50 miles from the place though

you can't really go wrong with a weber. they are simple and can be tuned to pretty much any application. they are available with manual, water, or electric chokes. mine has a manual choke on it, since the guy i bought the truck from said he couldn't figure out how to make the electric choke work


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2003 4:32 pm 
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Carbs unlimited... http://www.carbs.net

They offer the 32/36 in both electric and manual choke configurations.

They sell a kit with everything you need for a LUV installation.

http://www.carbs.net/Weber/weber.htm


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2003 1:34 pm 
I was having probs with my 78 running rough and too rich. I picked up a Holley remanufactured carb and my truck is running smooth with more zip than ever. I didnt think it would make such a difference. I got mine from Ebay for $179.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2003 3:03 pm 
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i had a problem keeping my 79 luv running longer than 10 seconds, i eventually traced the problem back to my tank. my tank had built up rust in it and it clogged the tube inside the tank. after i replaced it ( in order to remove the tank you must first remove the bed) it runs for ever.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2003 5:30 pm 
I removed my gas tank from under the truck...


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2003 5:39 pm 
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i guess mine was just being difficult. But did you check to see if your tank had rust deposits? :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2003 5:57 pm 
Yea...my stock tank was really in bad shape. I put a impalla tank in my offroad 80 LUV.( in the back of the bed)!!


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2003 7:10 pm 
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yeah!!!!!! thats awesome. I was gonna do that to my truck too but then my brother in law told me that its really illegal and you can get a BIG ticket. :evil: damn laws! :evil: so did changing the tank do make any difference?

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