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Where the frickin crap are the two wires coming off the electronic dizzy supposed to go. I hooked the 50 amp alternator, a msd ignition coil, and an mallory 6a ignition box. Everything works but the dizzy. I've got no spark and don't know if I fried the ignition module or what. PLEASE HELP!!! Any ideas, hunches, or guesses would be greatly appreciated. It's the same dizzy that fullaluv has. I've got headers, an offy, and a weber.

one + one - to coil... at least thats the way mine is, its from i think a 85 trooper

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My old but now gone Luv...

Really? I had a couple friends helping me out and they thought it'd fry the internal ignition module. But if that's the way it works than okay. It's just that I installed a mallory ignition box and when the power was on I could get a spark from the two distributor wires coming off the box but when hooked up to the dizzy we got nothin'. I'll give it a shot later this week and let you know. Just out of curiosity, if it's installed backwords does it fry the ignition module? I can't tell what's positive and what's negative. There's two wires on there, a black one and a black with orange stripe. We tried it both ways. Does it go positive to positive or positive to negative. And do I still need the ballast resistor or do I chuck it? Thanks once again.

I believe it would fry it if you hook it up backwards. Someone please correct me if im wrong. I"m not sure about the connection but I do know that the ballast resistor is not needed. Hope it helps.

I guess I might've fried it then. I still have to test it out. I'm just going to have to bypass my mallory ignition box to see. Is there any way to know which wires are positive and negative? And if it is fried, wouldn't it look melted or smell or something? It's a 281 dollar part, I guess I'm going to have to search at the junkyards cuz I can't afford it.

here is from another postt maybe it will help

Here's directions (let me know if I left something out):

1. Remove the negative coil lead on the distributor body.
2. Snip the fork off the end, and crimp on a male spade.
3. Crimp an eyelet that will fit on the coil secondary post on the end of a 14-20" piece of 12/14 gauge wire, and a male spade on the other end.
4. Roll the fan until the engine is at TDC. Remove the coil to distributor lead at the distributor (The one in the middle of the cap, same gauge as a plug wire). Pull the distributor cap to make sure the rotor is pointing in the general direction of the #1 plug lead. Tuck the cap up and away from the work area, no need to disconnect the wiring just yet.
5. Mark the body of the distributor in relation to the block AND the rotor in relation to the distributor shell (just in case you have to put it back).
6. Pull the distributor bolt and hold down, pull the vacuum advance hose, remove the distributor.
7. Put the new rotor on the electronic distributor, orient it closely to the way the old one came out, and slide it in. Make sure the blade end engaged properly by slightly twisting the rotor. If it won't seat all the way into the block, wiggle the rotor until it drops in. Put the distributor hold down back on, and bolt it down, but leave it loose enough to be able to move the distributor without breaking stuff. Reconnect the vacuum advance hose (or plug it until you've set the timing).
8. Place the spade of your new (red?) wire from the + side of the coil in the slot with the black wire with a yellow/orange stripe.
9. Place the spade from the old distributor (- side of coil) in the other slot.
10. Remove the battery cable or whatever you feel is safe at this point.
11. Disconnect the wiring to the + side of the coil, slip your new (red?) wire eyelet on, and put it back together.
12. Put your new cap on, and move the plug wires from the old cap to the new. Don't forget the coil wire.
13. Start your truck.
14. Adjust the timing as needed. Tighten down the distributor hold down, reconnect the vacuum advance.

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My old but now gone Luv...

Thanks! When I try this again I'm going to go off of this. I really wish I had spent more time preparing before trying to hook it up. Thanks for all the help guys. If I run into anymore snags (probably) I'll let you know. Thanks again for the help.