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You've probably already checked, but make sure the plug wires are in the proper firing order. When you set the timing, did you plug the vacuum line for the vacuum advance?

Otherwise, this sounds a lot like what mine is doing. Have you set the idle 'by the book'? It's very common to over crank the idle stop screw and/or bottom out the fuel mixture screw. I've done both in trying to get mine running right. It might just be that your fuel mixture screw is out too far (too rich) and the idle stop screw is in too far (idle too high).

Set the idle screw first for about 1K rpm and then adjust the fuel mixture in until is stumbles. Back it out 1/2 turn. Readjust the idle stop screw for 1K again, repeat as needed until it idles without puking fuel out the tailpipe. The choke is also a bit of a pain to get right, if it's set too high the fast idle cam gets in the way of the idle adjustments I just mentioned. Chevy/Isuzu put this carb on this engine for a reason. It's no Weber, but it should at least function as a carb is supposed to. You just rebuilt yours, and mine is a fresh rebuild too...the trick is getting 'em to run smoothly, I think.

Wish I were the expert you'd been hoping for, but really I'm just another guy stuck in the same boat...

Good luck, look how far you've gotten already. It usually gets worse before it gets better. Here's hoping you are pretty close to the end of the worst...

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

I'm not beyond checking the fiiring order again... i've been known to goof stuff.
Lemme Double check, An 85 isuzu Dizzy, with the #1 pointing towards the back
Firing order 1342
Counterclockwise.

did A compression test, after like 5 cranks with a gauge looking gauge(not the pressurized leakdown type)
#1 130 x 3 and leakdown was slow(too slow for me to wait for it and realeased the pressure
#2 Same
#3 Same
#4 Same
book says it should at 170 at 3k rpms but crank is no where near 3k
No coolant oil mixing anywhere (Head seems good right)
No adjacent fudged up compressions
No super fast leakdown (valves and guides good right)
Double Checked the Pump, discod it from the carb and cranked it 5 times and it squirt out almost half a cup. enuf right.
umm did i mention the black widows were Dead D e D dead
umm, Fuel looked clean coming out of fuel line

Funny the cold starting sounds like it is soooo going to go i get this mental woody and then Bam( truck raspberries me)

The Spark plugs were looking real sooty like the stuff out the back. Not oily like a leaky ring would show, That means rich right but the float is level and there are no more points is this the coil, maybe its weak, do i need a new flux capacitor??

Anyone know any good MechAnics in oceanside area that i can entrust the luv to while I'm gone, maybe get it rebuilt. nice self gift to come back to i guess. Thanks for all ur guyses help. I wish i could post with knowledge about the luv and not just questions. One day tho One day
LOL

LOL i wonder how many are the boat with us Nuke lol, must be pretty full
How do you adjust the choke at other than the middle mark. I put it there and that is the bench right. Now all the paperwork i can find says how to adjust the fast idle(thats like for cold starting) everytime i cold start, press the throttle to reset the fast idle cam and it lands well on the fastest setting. Is it s'posed to be adjusted further from this point. It seems like the choke is working fine cuz as it warms up it lands more and more open.
what is this thing for.

only pic i have of it. Its the little hex screw on the kick lever stop area. I don't see what it adjust except like the min rpms, but that's not the idle adjustment screw.
Right after the Dizzy install the mixture was way to lean and it was suffering, running at like 400 rpms. I did the book rpm adjust and then worked off of that to like 950 rpms at operating temp idle. It idles beautifully. the probs are accelerating it starts sounding like it misses and at cold starts.
I sooo wish i could start with the cosmetic stuff of the truck, but i would rather have the smoothest running rust bucket than a shaky smokey angry pretty truck. It's taking sooo much self control not to start bondoing and hammering. maybe i should just to get my mind of the engine for a while.
hey Nukeday, you don't have to apologize for not being the expert lol, I'm sure that with all the peeps here put together we can figure out this friggin carb

I think what hurts me the most is that there is a weber waiting to get put on there
Anyone know if i put the old cleaner on the weber would the smog places be able to even know the difference??

cleaned the Plugs and ran the engine again and they turned back to this


all four of them get like this



This is what my float is at too high. Should i lean it out.

I don't go to higher that 950 rpms for idle cuz at that point the jets start kicking in, i guess just because of the vacuum

At 900 - 950 only the idle jet is going

I wish there was a compy i could plug into this thing. Are there computerized carburetors? that would be so cool
or not maybe IDK

From the looks of those, I would say you were running a bit rich. Float level could be it, or do you know if anyone has ever messed with the jets?

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FIAA: Color Guard

The float bowl just supplies the fuel to the carb and doesn't regulate fuel delivery. The choke is electric, right? As long as it's got the hook on the lever, it should be opening the choke plate when it's warmed up. Is it?

The plug looks like a rich fuel mixture. Maybe the valves are needing adjusting. Have you done that? Careful there, if you do it wrong, you can cause bent valves and gouged pistons. You could already have a bent valve that isn't closing completely, and letting oil in the cylinder, but I wouldn't expect them all to be that way. Checking the valve clearance will require you to get a new top cover gasket set; if the gasket is old and worn it may leak.

COMPRESSION TEST
No, the book doesn't say 3K. It says 300 rpm, which is normal cranking speed. You never do a compression test with the engine running!! You do warm it up first, then turn it off and remove all the plugs. Hold the throttle valve all the way open, and crank. Your results were within the limit of 120 psi, so that shouldn't be the concern, but 170 psi is standard.

Sounds like the timing in wrong...

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

Actualy the Haynes does state 163.56psi @ 300(hundred) rpm series 1-4, 170.64 psi @ 3000(thousand) rpms Engine series 5 & 6, a little misleading.

First time I saw that I thought, "yeah, and how the hell am I gonna get 3000 rpm with no plugs in? "

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FIAA: Color Guard

set the float leaner, just below the dot, acting stoopid still

Started hard cold

Is this indicative of anything:
it idles fine once warmed up, but as i open throttle very slowly, when the primary jet starts giving fuel it starts running rough. I increase it very slowly and it goes up super beautifully until the fuel gets sucked in and then it looks like it is sputtering. Should the fuel be vaporized(atomized) once it enters the venturi?? cuz it looks pretty liquid.

I think I'm going to have to tell timmy to take suzie(<-- the luv) out back and do her in, her racing days may be over.

So desperating.

Umm the valves i adjusted they weren't that much off to begin with. the timing is dead on 6 BTC

I am convinced that it is this carburetor. Any ideas about slapping the stock Air Cleaner on the weber or maybe some "creative" smog places in O-side or nearby?

If you determine it is the stock carbs giving you fits, I still have my Hitachi off mine(79), truck was running great when I took it off, to install Weber.

No idea what one is worth, would consider reasonable offer if you're interested.

Did you check to see if the choke plate is still closed when the engine warms up? It sounds like you might need to re-attach the choke body correctly. The choke may still be closed, which causes the symptoms you described.

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

the choke works good, well i think it works well
it starts out fully closed and opens up as it warms up.
I only have a week b4 i leave, so i think i will put it in nonop status and wait a while, or just mess with it or take it to a mech 2morrow.
No shame in asking for help right.
Maybe i just need some1 to double check my work,
changing out the bimmers tranny i forgot to plug in the tps and could see it, even tho it was right in front of me.
I wonder how i passed calculus with this problem of mine lol

Put some gas preservative in the tank before you go. And keep in touch.

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

thanks for the help guys

Ok here my 2cents did you rebuild the carb ?There are 2 plugs on the bottom of the carb for access to the main jets check to make sure the jets are in and in the right side. Next did you pull the air jets that are on top of the venturis if so make sure they are in the right side as the will interchange but wont run right. They are just the opposite of the main jets ie; small main and air jet on primary side and the large main and small air jet on the secondary side. Now if that is all correct pull the vac. off the dist. and adj. the dist. until the engine is running at it's best then back up until you here it start to labor just a little tighten it down and check the timing you should be close. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE VENTURI VAC. TO THE DIST. That means no vac. at idle ( all though some will pull a little at idle ) now check your timing while running and rev the motor your timing should keep advancing if it starts to go back check your vac. source. Point there are three adv. to a dist. initial,mech.,and vac. and you check them in that order. If you are not to confused with all this i think you will be up and running shortly. I will stay tune to your progress good luck and may the force be with you

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

I've spent quite a bit of time here over the past week or so...

http://www.recarbco.com/technical/newtr ... Cold_drive

Some of the troubleshooting applies more directly to your situation as they primarily reman carbs for the California market.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

One of the problems with those old hitachi carbs is they were poorly made to begin with, since japanese cars weren't designed to last as long as we keep our cars. In japan, everyone turns in their cars for credit frequently to assist in the recycling of materials, since japan has to import almost all of the raw materials necessary to build a car.

The main parts that are still usable are primarily shipped out of the country for sale in foreign markets, the US being one of the biggest customers. We buy used crate engines, used transmissions, etc. in huge quantities. What is left is scrapped and recycled.

Any cheap old japanese carb, as it wears, begans to leak and suck air/fuel around all of it's moving parts due to excessive wear from inferior grade steel rubbing on poor quality aluminum, and also partly due to some pretty lousy casting and machine work when it was manufactured.

So trying to rebuild a crappy-made 30 year old japanese carb is a little like embarking on a never-ending quest...lol

That was the feeling i got when turning the idle screw sometimes killed and sometimes didn't and the speed one sometimes worked and stuff kept coming loose and eh, i figured it would be easier to pass with a weber than with a crappy hitachi. I'm keeping the old hitachi tho cuz it looks pretty cool, and at one point worked and I like stuff like that. I was always the kid that took the cassette players apart just to see what was doing what in there and tried modifying it
"look ma, the $100 1985 walkman can play with no lid isn't cool" <--me
"What, i just paid $100 for that thing that you begged for!!"<--- Mom
I was going to take revenge and slap some c4 on it and see how high i could make it fly, but i think that would be disrespectful

Does anyone know the part number or where the conversion kits from points to electronic can be ordered from?

I have been looking for ages and can never find a place that has them.

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More LUV than one man could ever need - Spread the LUV!
- 1976 Chevy Longbed - Daily Driver
- 1981 Chevy Shortbed 4X4 - Needs Help!
- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together

viewtopic.php?f=24&t=17586&hilit=pertronix

Check out this thread. You can call and order these parts from Summit now. This is an aftermarket conversion for your original points dist.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?